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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    lake Conroe

    1999 SLTX 1050 stator? Different cable grommet, different versions?

    I was having a lack of spark on my ski so I decided to check out the stator. In the process I found that someone who had worked on it before ( removing the oil pump ) had not put the proper block off plate where the pump was mounted. Therefore letting water into the stator/flywheel housing. After noticing this I decided to remove the stator and get a replacement.

    That's when I realized that the stator installed is not the one that should be in there according to the housing. The wires were ran out of the top of the housing and siliconed. I read somewhere that the older Polaris had the wires come out of a different place. So I'm thinking this is an older style stator. I have seen a stator on eBay that says its for my 99 sltx but instead of having butt connectors on each wire it has a plug which my ski doesn't have a place to plug in. Can the plug be cut off and wired in or do I need a different cdi for that stator? I have also found a stator on eBay that looks like mine that says its for 96-98 models. Which has the wrong rubber gromet on it just like the one I removed.

    Not sure what to purchase. Please help.

    How do I know which stator to purchase?
    Last edited by K447; 05-13-2013 at 01:37 PM.

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    1999 1050 engines had unusual combination of old stator with new style cable grommet

    My understanding of the situation;

    The 1999 1050 engines (and ONLY the 1050 engines in 1999) used the 'new' flywheel housing (and new style cable grommet hole), but came from the factory with the non-Gen III stator. So this model had the old stator type (electrically) but the NEW grommet style.

    It sounds like someone needed a replacement old style stator for that engine, but sourced one from an engine that was not a 1999 1050, hence it had the old style cable grommet.

    Since then, Polaris released an Ignition Update Kit specifically for the 1999 1050 engine. This Update Kit had the newer style cable grommet and a Gen III stator (and matching Gen III CDI, of course). I think all the Update kits also had the 8-pin connector on the stator cable.

    Since the 1050 engine came stock with the newer style flywheel housing, a standard Gen III stator will fit the grommet opening (does not need to be from an Update Kit). Of course, a Gen III stator needs a Gen III CDI to work.

    If you want a tidy installation, you can do any of the following;

    • Install an Update Kit made for the 1999 1050 engine (Gets you Gen III reliability)
    • Install a regular Gen III stator and Gen III CDI (Same reliability as above)
    • Source an original stator from a 1999 1050 engine
    • Source an original stator from any 1996-1999 engine other than the 1999 1050 (which is what you have now) and change the flywheel housing to one with the old style grommet

  3. #3
    Banned User
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Milwaukee WI
    The updated stators included in the update kits all used the individual plugs, not the Deutsch connector like used on the newer 1200s. Keith is correct about the stator cable exit. If you have the stator off, you can install the updated kit, just get the flywheel housing that matches the cable exit. A housing from a 96-98 will do the trick. Its exactly the same except for the cable exit. If you have it apart, I would definitely do the update.

  4. #4
    casey67's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    This is the stator you should use.

    Notice how 3 of the finger type bars do not have windings on them-this will be the Gen 3 design' You need to identify which CDI you have installed- yellow marker 4010447 will be correct.

    This is the original 99 design; (notice how all the fingers have windings on them )

    At some point-Polaris stopped selling the 99 update kit- the owner may have bought/installed the 96-98. The 96-98 had wires that ran all the way into the electrical box,not using the inline 12 pin connecter.

    The jumper with the female end of the connecter was sold separately ( the end that runs into the electrical box) I think it was like $50, if still available>
    Every one on e-bay usually sells the entire box as one piece and at a ridiculus price.
    So soldering the wires might be your best option.

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