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  1. #1

    New here help needed please

    Hi all can you help I have just brought a sl1050 1997 model I have found that were the drive comes out of the engine there seems to be a dust cover or metal seal and I have noticed this is rusted and missing in one side and looks like it has been like it for a while also signs of oil on the floor below it stc is this bad news also the mfd does nothing no display at all is there a fuse some were or something else the ski seems to start and run fine also were do I find a work shop manual. Thanks

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    See my signature links for a lot of useful info.

    Sounds like the crank shaft rear seal is rusted and failing. These can be replaced but it requires splitting apart the crank case halves.

    MFD fuse is inside the electrical box. See my signature links for fuse details.

  3. #3
    can the engine be ran with it like this or is a case of enigine out can it be a diy job or do i have to get somone to dop it and where do i get this part or number thanks

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    Engine leak down pressure test

    Quote Originally Posted by Doza View Post
    can the engine be ran with it like this or is a case of engine out? can it be a diy job or do i have to get somone to do it?

    ... where do i get this part or number? ...
    If that rear crank shaft seal is actually not properly sealing, it will leak air pressure and vacuum when the PTO cylinder is running. The air leak can create a lean burn condition in that cylinder which can damage the piston, and can make the engine difficult to tune and it may just not run well. Sometimes an air leak can be hard to detect while riding (engine seems fine), yet be bad enough to further damage the engine.

    The only test you can do with the engine in the hull is a leak down test. You seal off the engine at the intake ports and exhaust ports, then attach an air pressure gauge and a source of compressed air or vacuum.

    You apply a few PSI of air pressure or vacuum, then close off the supply valve and monitor the pressure change for a few minutes. A good engine will hold the pressure/vacuum and slowly leak it away. A bad seal anywhere in the engine will allow the pressure reading to decline rapidly.

    Prepping the engine for a leak down test involves removing the carburetors, sealing the intakes. Also disconnecting part of the exhaust to find a convenient point to cap that. Making up something to actually seal all these openings air tight.

    And assembling the pieces to create a leak down gauge with valve. The usual place to connect the leak down tester is the PTO crank case pulse fitting.

    To actually change that rear crank shaft seal requires the engine to come right out, be stripped down with no exhaust and probably no intake. Starter motor, Flywheel housing and flywheel must come off. Then remove the cylinder hold down nuts, remove all the crank case bolts from the bottom. At this point if you are lucky you can get the bottom half of the crank case to separate.

    Tip: Remove the drive shaft coupler from the engine before removing the engine from the hull. Much easier to do in the hull. Jet pump and drive shaft must also be removed before removing engine.

    See my signature links for a list of parts sources and part numbers for the alternate seal arrangement. Polaris updated to a dual seal configuration on the later model year factory production, and you can update to this dual seal configuration, or you can replace with the original single seal.

  5. #5
    Fink's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
    North East Arkansas
    Welcome to the Green Hulk!!!

    Before tackling this job, be aware that the engine will need to be aligned with the jet pump when it goes back in. The tool to do this is not cheap.

  6. #6
    ripcuda's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Newman Lake, WA
    If it's the same engine pulled, then put back in... and you don't loose any of the existing shims already there. I don't see why you would have to use an alignment tool. I never have in my past rebuilds.

    Now install a different engine or different engine cradle... or you remove the pump base off the hull... or remove all existing shims and forget where they go (usually written on hull next to mounts)... then yeah... you should use an alignment tool.


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