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  1. #1

    Calling all 1200R Troubleshooters. Old timer needs help.

    I bought a 2000 GPR a few weeks back that when I first started at purchase it was winterized with compression readings 125 across the board. It literally banged right up and idled fine for 10-15 seconds, then shut off. After that I brought it home and started 2 more times for about 5 seconds each (no issues). The same gas, oil, and plugs from winterization at this point. I then put the ski on the hose the other day for the first time and it was idling like crap (would stall). I can rev the engine and lots of normal smoke, just won’t idle. I did notice right side pisser was not working, left was and water from rear.

    I then went and added new plugs gapped at .040 and added Yamalube 2M (wrong oil I found out, I hear the 2M and 2W can sludge if mixed; but within minutes?). Then the ski would not start, it was slightly running but VERY little. Throttle or no gas it would barely get past a few hundred RPM’s. When I checked the plugs after this, #1 had oil deposits #2 and #3 were clean. Not enough vacuum to get oil to back carbs? I changed the fuel filter and still same issue with it not starting. Maybe pour some pre mix in each cylinder to get it moving?

    I do have the cat con in the ski. I took the stinger off and the cat was in 1 piece but I am no expert to tell if it was clogged. I blew out all the lines and checked the jackets and they were free from obstruction. BTW the power valves are cycling just fine, I have spark, and I have a strong battery and starter.

    So I am adding a D Plate and I siphoned all the winterized gas and all the mixed yamalube oil from the reservoir. Starting fresh. If I STILL have an issue at this point any ideas what could be wrong?

    Also, how do I adjust idle on land? Carbs still have tamper caps and the throttle cable has a lil slack. Do I turn the remote knob? If so, which way to get RPM?
    Last edited by cperry; 05-20-2013 at 11:12 AM.

  2. #2
    remote knob =right to raise speed left to decrease,its easiest to adjust idle in water on trailer with seat off,also check all your oil lines going to each carb from pump if white tie wrap is in place cut it and look closely at each oil line where it goes into carb while you have stinger off,these are notorious for the black plastic protector over oil line actually pulling oil line off as heat from cat converter causes shrinkage,usually its number 3 cylinder but #2 also can actually pull itself at minimum need to cut off 1" or more of the springy black hose protector.The 2 main issues with these pwc is an exhaust valve dropping if you dont have clips or new style and rubbing on piston,and or the cat .converter breaking up,and or causing enough heat for #3 oil line or #2 oil line coming off carb,I still get 3 or 4 a year to put d-rings and or rebuild them.I do mostly seadoos hope this helps

  3. #3


    All the oil lines are connected and they still have protective sleeve. Pulled number 3 and there is oil in the line but it did not flow out at all. Stuck a plastic tooth pick in and the oil looked thin and clear as it should.

    Could the cat have become clogged after running on the hose after a winterization?

    What are the normal symptoms of a bad cat?

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