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  1. #1

    03 gti bog issue Please Help

    I just had the carb cleaned as it had a good hesitation when giving it throttle from idle. All fuel lines have been changed. Now though when in water from idle to full throttle I get a major bog. In order to get on plane i have to ease on the throttle. The mechanic I took it too told me its the nature of the beast and that possibly my impeller may be over pitched. I checked the wear ring and impeller both of which are new. Oem wear ring with a solas st cd 10/16 impeller. The clearance gap on between those are marginal as i can see light behind the impeller but both look unscathed. My mechanic also tried to tune the carb but said he couldnt find a low speed adjustment, so he played with the idle screw. Top end seems find as I am hitting 40+ depending on water conditions. i have also read that any silicone around the leading edge of the rideplate and intake grate (which there is due to this mechanic) can cause cavitation. I need help. Im new to skis and trying to learn all I can. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Prior to taking it to this mechanic the ski never bogged like this.


  2. #2
    Myself's Avatar
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    For starters please don't take your ski back to this "mechanic". He might be a good mechanic but that doesn't mean he's a watercraft mechanic. We are "different". I believe you have the accelerator pump style carb. If that pump is not working properly it will do exactly what you describe. Take off you flame arrestor (breather) box so you can see down into the carb throat. You should be able to see fuel squirt inside the carb just by squeezing the throttle a couple times. If there is no squirt or a weak dribble then there is the problem.

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  4. #3
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    yeah +5 on finding a competent place to get your ski wrenched.

    couldn't find the low speed screw eh?..that assures a big mess in the metering.

    when you pull the FA to check the accel pump get a good solid light in there and look for the adjustment screws. close the high speed one all the way. ( report back if the caps are off ( black plastic restrictor caps that only allow minor changes to mixture)

    the pump doesn't actually help performance, it's just that the idle mixture is so lean due to epa, that to get a better transition when you wack the throttle open, they had to dump additional fuel in there.

    sure the pump should squirt..but that's not the entire problem

    you'll likely have to have somebody that knows how watercraft carbs work to go thru them to check on things like the actual low/highspeed settings..and of course if everything was put back together properly

    get hold of a service manual for your ski and set the carbs to the factor settings for your year/model.

    in 95% of cases, high speed screws on Seadoo carbs should be closed or at most 1/8-1/4 turn open..more then that and when you make that transition to high speed circuits, the engine will bog..too much fuel)

    tell the "mechanic", he should either learn what he needs to do..or just stop taking money from people when he can't deliver a properly running ski

  5. #4
    Thank you for the quick responses. I am most definitely going to check that this friday. It's frustrating because incidents like this make me lose trust in mechanics. the up side is that I learn how to do it myself. I picked up a carb rebuild kit today just in case. I called another shop and was told that since I am in california chances are I have the california model which on this ski and particular year they put caps over the adjustments for emissions. I have already been researching stock settings that way I figure I will check the accelerator pump, and more than likely just rebuild the thing myself and set it back to spec. is it fairly easy to remove the carb? My biggest concern is how to disconnect the throttle cable.

  6. #5
    If the problem occurs after I check the pump and rebuild the carb what would be the next thing to check?

  7. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    <ranting> yeah..and California skis require special fuel ( made from the bark of endangered trees) and if the operator is not wearing a thong..then it might not start up at all..

    WHERE do they come up with this CRAP?

    EVERY mid 90's Seadoo shipped with the limiter cap..not just "California models"
    <rant off>

    When you clean/rebuild the carb, the cap must come off..the EPA police expect a good shop to avoid a fine and put the cap back on.

    there AIN'T NO "CALIFORNIA MODELS" for jetskis((as it turns out ( see next post..there ARE califonia only models for the 2003 model year)

    you gottta stop calling motorcycle shops for advice pal

    Motorcycles ( all state models btw) came with brass plugs over the idle adjustment screws to prevent tampering

    I don't recall every seeing a designation for a California or 49 state models in Jetskis ( obvious I never had to do any carb work on a 2003 LE California model)

    you biggest concern should be getting the carb back on the manifold with a properly sealed gasket ( get one or two..they aren't expensive)

    some red hi-tack spray gasket sealer a camera to take position pics and a really really good light to see what you're doing

    Your first play should be to set the screws to stock...don't go pulling the carb just yet..if you find the high speed screw was open 1.5 turns..that's your culprit!

    I gotta get back to work..lunchtime fun is over for today.
    Last edited by nmpeter; 05-21-2013 at 06:46 PM. Reason: my total lack of information on the 2003 GTI LE model ski

  8. #7
    AndinoWatercraft's Avatar
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    This 03 GTI came as ''LE'' Low Emission. The low speed screw it's blocked . You will need to drill the cap to get to it. Not so fun to do(ask me how I kow lmao...) and worse if your new to skis . I end up replacing the carb for an old style one to get it properly tuned. Post pics of the carb when you get it out. Throtle cable is not so hard to remove. loose only tue upper nut of the cable near the carb so the adjustment of the cable does'nt change much.

    Im no expert. Hope this helps.

  9. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    ok I'll bite...heading over to riva to see what this 2003 LE carb looks like..LE typically means limited edition

    <thud>

    Well serve up a big plate of crow..cause I got to eat a bunch...

    so there WAS a California only model 2003 Gti LE

    I WAS WRONG.

    odd as the California carb is half as much as the 49 state carb.

    well you're more of an expert on this then I am obviously as it's painfully obvious I never came across a 2003 LE model

    the 2004 LE model came in 50 state model ( no California only carb)

    I was under the impression that the only 2 strokes sold after the 2002 model year were the RFI fuel injected models

    Learn something new everyday at the hulk

  10. #9
    AndinoWatercraft's Avatar
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    Glad to help.

  11. #10
    thanks for all the help guys. So i took the carb off today and rebuilt it. Prior to doing so I checked to see if the accelerator pump was squirting. I couldnt see anything (maybe my eyes are going bad), but i heard it. Anyway I ended up rebuilding the carb. this mechanic just cleaned it for sure as the gaskets looked fairly old and worn. I didnt mess with the pop off lever though, nor did i test it because i dont have a guage. I put it back together, and while off I managed to gently drill and pop out the caps that were so kindly placed their to block the carb adjustments. I closed the high speed all the way as per the manual ( it definitely was more than a 1/4 open) and closed and opened the low speed to 1.25 turn. I ran out of daylight so i havent put the carb back on yet. Also beofre taking the carb off I got a cheapie compression guage at harbor freight to test the motor compression. It read 115 on both cylinders. I dont know how accurate this guage is though as the motor appears to run strong to me.

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