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  1. #1

    Question Prop shaft alignment

    First I wanted to thank everyone for all the great tips/knowledge they share here on this forum. My question is-I pulled prop shaft (99 SUV) to replace pump liner and noticed slight wear from where shaft is spinning on the so-called 'pipe' that is positioned to rear of where spline slides in shaft coupler. Looking through the transom plate I can see that the shaft coupler is sitting high at 2 oclock which is making the slight groove on my prop shaft-I am guessing that the transom plate would need to be pulled and shimmed to get this alignment proper but get confused when I see that the bearing housing shaft coupler inside the ski is bolted to fiberglass as well-manuel calls for 1 of 2 shims at this location-do i assume this is bolted correctly and go on to pulling the transom plate and shimming or do I need to start by with bearing housing on the inside of ski? I did the motor alignment to the bearing housing and had to do some shimming to get to specs but that was before i checked and seen that the pump liner was way over tolerants-so at which point does a person begin to dial this schuff in at?


  2. #2

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    the marks you are seeing on the shaft is were the seal or packing is. Do not shim the intermediate shaft, you line the engine with the pump installed. The wear ring mean nothing to the alignment.
    Mike

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by mikel70 View Post
    the marks you are seeing on the shaft is were the seal or packing is. Do not shim the intermediate shaft, you line the engine with the pump installed. The wear ring mean nothing to the alignment.
    Mike
    Correct-I aligned engine to the intermediate shaft then I wanted to check wear ring and it is shot so after pulling it all out I noticed this slight wearing on shaft/slight indentation which made me peek through the transom palte to notice how high to the right (2 oclock) that the female end of spline was sitting in there. 1.) Your saying this indentation is for a seal/packing that must be worn out/missing? 2.) Is there anyway to get the female/rear end of intermediate centered in the opening-like pulling transom palte off and do a few dry runs with shims? Thanks Mikel

  4. #4

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    Oh just thought about something, have you replaced the stock hose that is inside the hull. It goes from the intermediate shaft to the hull, if not it's sucking it flat at hole shot. Get some marine hose and replace it.

    the pump shaft goes inside the intermediate shaft and makes one straight piece and has seal to slow the grease from coming out. behind that is something like foam and it runs on the shaft to help from sucking the grease into the pump.
    Mike

  5. #5
    [quote=mikel70;224533]Oh just thought about something, have you replaced the stock hose that is inside the hull. It goes from the intermediate shaft to the hull, if not it's sucking it flat at hole shot. Get some marine hose and replace it.

    the pump shaft goes inside the intermediate shaft and makes one straight piece and has seal to slow the grease from coming out. behind that is something like foam and it runs on the shaft to help from sucking the grease into the pump.
    Mike[/quote

    Great, I been following Metal4130 thread about intermediate shaft grease and osidebill reply to metals question falls right inline with what your telling me - at least now I know which direction to go and can search out the items I will need before wrenching it all back together and will try and find some valcunized hose for replacement, Thanks again.

  6. #6
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    You will want to replace that hose at the rear with a gates reinforced hose it is much stronger and will not collapse. also after you install the new liner and put the pump back in do a check on the coupler alignment again. The conversation I was having with Metal was on the GP platform which is different than the SUV. The SUV has the same pump set-up as a GPR or XLT do you have a manual? I have one of these skis it is my Family Ski and is alot of fun for everyone.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by osidebill View Post
    You will want to replace that hose at the rear with a gates reinforced hose it is much stronger and will not collapse. also after you install the new liner and put the pump back in do a check on the coupler alignment again. The conversation I was having with Metal was on the GP platform which is different than the SUV. The SUV has the same pump set-up as a GPR or XLT do you have a manual? I have one of these skis it is my Family Ski and is alot of fun for everyone.
    That was/is the reason I bought the SUV-my daughter is 10 and wanted something stable enough to get her use to being on the water-carlyle lake is ranked like 5th in the country for sailing so that gives you an idea of the wind/chop we ride in.
    Yes, the manuel and life jackets were the first tihings I purchased-I hadn't had my old jacket on in 12 years and it shrank -this slight ring/that looks like wear to me on the SUV prop shaft is for some sort of packing do you think-the manuel doesn't show anything that i am aware of that slips on shaft between the spline/prop just the 'OEM pipe' or soon the be replaced with 'gates hose'? Also since I ride in fresh water what liner would you suggest installing-I'm leaning towards original since it seems to be more user friendly versus the plastic liner or the solid S/S liner wrapped around a S/S prop.

  8. #8

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    Mea,

    My experience is with the GPR and other Yamaha models, but unfortunately not with yours. I think that I would do the transom plate alignment first. On the GPR's, their are alignment tabs built into the hull. They are set at about the 11:00 1:00 and 4:00 position. At the factory the workers are supposed to mount that plate flush to the tabs. This is a real problem with the GPR's, as there is a tendency for one side to drop during installation. I believe that this is the real problem for premature wear on the ring. Of course, I might be wrong.

    As I understand it, the fit and finish on other models is even worse than the GPR. Perhaps the alignment strategy is not the same on your model as mine, but look into it and make sure your transom is right. Motor misalignment is not near as subtle as transom misalignment, and even with the motor you have to know what you are looking for. For me, I would align the transom to something that is fixed, like the tabs, then align the motor based upon the position the transom has set for the pump and shaft.

    Of course all of this is assumeing that the tabs are correct, but we all have to start somewhere, right?

  9. #9
    Moderator OsideBill's Avatar
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    The original wear ring was lined with Stainless and was very thin. It was the piece I had to change on mine. I was putting in an aftermarket impeller and it would not fit I checked the ring and the liner was swollen and had actually worn the original impeller.

    I bought the all Stainless one from Riva at the time it was expensive. The later model wear rings have thicker liners now and will work fine, also the plastic ones work well too and are much cheaper and easier to repair if you do have a problem. I have a spare wear ring with new plastic liner for sale $100 + $10 shipping if you want it. The liners run about $30 for replacements from many online stores or ebay thats where I got the one I installed. they take about 10 minutes to change there is a thread in the how to section here that RX951 did on changing them.

    The polished spot on the shaft is from the hose. The hole in the pump tunnel where you install the shaft through is open all the way to the inside, the hose goes between the intermediate shaft housing and the pump tunnel the intermediate shaft housing is where the water seal is. if the hose wears through you will take on water and sink the ski.

    I will look for some pictures of the hose upgrade there is some here on the forum I also recommend adding a bilge pump to the ski it is a good safety precaution. I will say from all the skis I have owned this one has been the least wet inside.

  10. #10
    Thanks guys-I did read the post awhile back on the 'gate hose' and he had pic posted of also prior owner had already installed a bilge.
    It sounds like your choice is the S/S and that is why you want to part with the wear ring/plastic liner-let me give it some more thought/weigh out if I want to 1.) get into flipping/replacing plastic liner every 50 hrs or so 2.) stay with OEM 3.) install $tainlss $teal

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