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  1. #1
    Kristian Keppel Waterholics's Avatar
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    Help removing Crankcase

    I'm down to the short block and removed the oil pan. The only thing is that the generator cover and the drive line coupler is a real PITA to get off. Can I remove the crankcase without the the generator cover coming of. If not what tools do I need and how do I get it off ?


  2. #2

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    You might want to tell us what you are working on.

  3. #3
    I had the same problem and was able to remove the crank case with the generator cover unbolted and pulled back a bit. It was a bit tricky but it worked. Do not stuff screwdrivers in between any of the machined faces, its tempting but a bad idea. Crank case was snug but manageable. Generator cover likes to pull back in towards the crank case because the magnets are pretty strong. There are dowel pins between both pieces, hence why you need to slide the cover back a bit. Careful of the little oil gallery pipe and o ring that sits between the crankcase and block!

    However, I then decided to remove the coupler after and i wish I had done that first. At the time I didn't have all the tools, just needed to get my crank to the machine shop.

    You need a couple wrench from the store and a 12mm Allan key. Remove the plug in the middle of the coupler. Put the coupler wrench in the coupler. Put the long end of the 12mm Allan key in the center and it will lock into the crank shaft. Put a pipe on the end of the Allan key and start pulling on the coupler wrench. Its tight....really tight, green loctite and no fun at all. I used some heat and that helped a bunch, but is hard on seals if you aren't going to replace then.Turns off clockwise like everything else.

    I built my own adapter to turn the coupler, but the Rd big ass coupler wrench is not probably the better tool.

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  5. #4
    Kristian Keppel Waterholics's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug78 View Post
    I had the same problem and was able to remove the crank case with the generator cover unbolted and pulled back a bit. It was a bit tricky but it worked. Do not stuff screwdrivers in between any of the machined faces, its tempting but a bad idea. Crank case was snug but manageable. Generator cover likes to pull back in towards the crank case because the magnets are pretty strong. There are dowel pins between both pieces, hence why you need to slide the cover back a bit. Careful of the little oil gallery pipe and o ring that sits between the crankcase and block!

    However, I then decided to remove the coupler after and i wish I had done that first. At the time I didn't have all the tools, just needed to get my crank to the machine shop.

    You need a couple wrench from the store and a 12mm Allan key. Remove the plug in the middle of the coupler. Put the coupler wrench in the coupler. Put the long end of the 12mm Allan key in the center and it will lock into the crank shaft. Put a pipe on the end of the Allan key and start pulling on the coupler wrench. Its tight....really tight, green loctite and no fun at all. I used some heat and that helped a bunch, but is hard on seals if you aren't going to replace then.Turns off clockwise like everything else.

    I built my own adapter to turn the coupler, but the Rd big ass coupler wrench is not probably the better tool.
    So I think I'll go the method with removing the cover with the coupler wrench. Where can I get it. I am not seeing it in the store. Also how did you make your coupler wrench ?

  6. #5
    Jerry must have pulled it from tne store. He may be able to get it for you. Otherwise order it from rd Its way down on this page:
    http://www.rd-performance.com/catalo...eNo=&RowCount=

    That site is terrible!! Jerry has a way better catalog. I cut mine out of mild steel and shined it up really well. Just cut a puck the shape of the rubber piece, welded a big nut to it and cut a hole for my allen key. Its not perfect but should work. Havent actually used it yet.

  7. #6
    Kristian Keppel Waterholics's Avatar
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    So I took out the crankcase without removing the coupling. Now for sure the coupling is a real PITA to get out. Can someone please tell me what tools I need and how to get it out.

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