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  1. #1
    DrivingZiggy's Avatar
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    Question New trailer adjustments.

    I just bought a brand new Triton Elite. The shop showed me where all of the 9/16" adjustment nuts/bolts are and which directions they move.

    So, where should the bunks be on the hull? Half way between the center and the edge? Some other adjustment?

    I just read the bow-stop thread, so I think I got that for the most part. However, I need to know how far onto the trailer to pull the WaveRunners and adjust the bow-stop from there.

    So, bunks and bow-stop. Oh, and buy some QUALITY straps for the rear. Oh, and go to the DMV to pay taxes and register. Other than that, is there anything I need to know?


  2. #2
    @JC's Avatar
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    When you buy your skis and pick them up just have the dealer adjust the bunks to the skis. The bunks should be flat on the hull not resting on the strakes.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrivingZiggy View Post
    I just bought a brand new Triton Elite. The shop showed me where all of the 9/16" adjustment nuts/bolts are and which directions they move.

    So, where should the bunks be on the hull? Half way between the center and the edge? Some other adjustment?

    I just read the bow-stop thread, so I think I got that for the most part. However, I need to know how far onto the trailer to pull the WaveRunners and adjust the bow-stop from there.

    So, bunks and bow-stop. Oh, and buy some QUALITY straps for the rear. ... Other than that, is there anything I need to know?
    The Triton trailers have a two level bunk support bracket (unless they changed it from my 2008 model). Very adjustable, but it can take some trial and error to get the bunks just right. Do not be surprised if each hull has to go on and then back off the bunks several times before it is right. And even then, you may find yourself tweaking the bunks yourself (after launching the skis, of course).

    Generally speaking, you want the bunks to be as far apart as possible, while still properly supporting the hull. The bunks are NOT to be under the ridges (strakes, chines) on the hull bottom. The bunks should be against the flat hull areas between the ridges. Depending on how the hull is shaped, the space between the bunks may be closer at the front than the rear.

    Load one ski on the trailer, and winch it forward until the tongue weight is correct. To check this, the trailer needs to be disconnected from the tow vehicle. You should have a 'trailer jack' on the tongue to support the tongue. The proper method is to use an actual weight scale to check the tongue weight.

    Most of us use the 'calibrated grunt' method. If the weight is 'about right' when the tongue end is lifted up by hand (grunting, of course) then the hull is in about the right place, fore and aft speaking. Keep in mind that the fuel tanks will add some weight to the tongue when full, but the tongue weight should be 'not too light' even with empty tanks. I would aim for almost 100 pounds tongue weight with either watercraft loaded, and circa 200 pounds with both loaded.

    Slide the winch tower towards the hull, and move the bow roller up to just under the front lip of the hull. Snug down all the bolts, then hook the metal hook from the winch strap onto the bow eye. Make sure nothing binds up as the winch is tightened.

    The way I do it, is I then REMOVE the first hull and slide the other hull onto the other side. Do the same tongue weight for and aft adjustments and then set that winch tower into place. Now when both watercraft are loaded (without moving either winch tower) the total tongue weight should also be correct (percentage-wise).


  4. #4
    DrivingZiggy's Avatar
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    Thanks, fellas! This is exactly what I needed to know--let the dealer do it, but then double check everything. Just like President Reagan said!

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrivingZiggy View Post
    ... let the dealer do it, but then double check everything. ...
    Well, you can only check and verify if you yourself know what 'done properly' looks like

    Sometimes the dealership guys can be very thorough and careful, other times they can be rushed and just not so careful. Ask them to explain what they are doing as they set it up, why they do it a certain way. Probably only going to be one guy or two guys actually doing the trailer adjustment and loading the watercraft.

    Before you take the trailer to the dealer, put wrenches (you will need two wrenches) on the winch tower adjustment bolts and learn how it moves fore and aft, how the bow roller height gets set.

    Also check all the bolts under the bunks, and experiment with shifting the bunk mounts left and right (which usually requires loosening all six nuts on each bunk). You want the bunk pivots to be snug enough to not flop over by themselves. If the dealership guy doing the loading is not familiar with Triton then you knowing this stuff will smooth things.

    I actually carry a pair of 9/16 box and open end wrenches in the tow vehicle. Sometimes I need to snug up something or make an adjustment while away from home. One has a self ratcheting head, which speeds up the process.

    Generally speaking, you want the bunks to be as low and as wide as possible without allowing the hull to contact the trailer frame during launching and unlaunching. Which pivot on the multi level Triton bunk bracket is appropriate will depend on your FX HO hull shape.

    Tip: I like using a ratcheting box end wrench, works much better in the tight space inside each bunk bracket.

    Last edited by K447; 05-23-2013 at 08:42 AM.

  6. #6
    DrivingZiggy's Avatar
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    Got it, thanks! The trailer dealer made a big deal out of pointing out that ALL of the nuts and bolts on the Triton are 9/16. Seems to me it would be common sense to have all of them the same size. But I guess that kind of detail can get lost in a corporate environment.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DrivingZiggy View Post
    Got it, thanks! The trailer dealer made a big deal out of pointing out that ALL of the nuts and bolts on the Triton are 9/16. Seems to me it would be common sense to have all of them the same size. But I guess that kind of detail can get lost in a corporate environment.
    From your photo in another thread, the bow rollers look to be way too low.



    The bow roller should be tucked up under the front lip of the hull, just down enough for the hull to slide back without catching on the roller.

    The winch strap should be routed under the small plastic guide roller on the winch tower, then up to the bow eye on the hull.

    The idea is that the bow roller supports the front of the hull, while the winch strap pulls down and forward on the hull. The hull cannot move down because of the roller, and it cannot rise because of the tight strap. This keeps the hull firmly in place during towing, and especially during sudden braking or even a collision.

    Post up some clear photos of the bow area. Also how the bunks are sitting under the hull. Photos really help others see potential issues, even stuff we didn't think about until the picture triggers something.

  8. #8
    DrivingZiggy's Avatar
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  9. #9
    DrivingZiggy's Avatar
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    You can see from the first pic that the rollers are adjusted all the way up. They are right at the top of the bow eye. From what I saw when I went to the landing, this is pretty much where the guys I watched have theirs adjusted. I guess so that the strap will hold the hull tight to the roller.

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  10. #10
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    Your setup appears to be ok to me. As long as the strap can come under the roller you should be good. If its possible to get the roller higher I would, but if you can't its probably ok.

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