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Thread: 1997 gp1200

  1. #1

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    1997 gp1200

    I pick this up off Craigslist for $700 with a galvanized trailer. i clean her up and removed all the Monster decals.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Previous owner bought it from an auction and replaced the battery and locked himself out. He didn't know about the lock feature so he started troubleshooting and taking things apart. He couldn't get it started so here I come. I brought it home, put the starter switch back together, reset the meter, hit the start button... And nothing. I jumped the starter relay and got the motor to spin, but a loud clanking came from the starter, then the starter motor just spun. Replaced the bendix. Installed a new starter relay, hit the start button, then...Nothing. The kill switch was sticking, so I took it apart and one of the brass tabs was missing. Bought a used switch off ebay. installed it, hit the start button, then... Nothing.

    I bypassed the meter and wallah!!! Engine started, then died. Siphoned the old gas out. Put new gas in and she's alive, with a lot of white smoke. Every time I try to connect the meter, the engine starts automatically, so I've been running it with the meter bypassed. Took it out twice and she hauls butt. It came with an aftermarket ride plate and I bought an aftermarket intake grate off ebay (sorry, I forget the brands). I also ordered a waterproof tachometer/hour meter (because it was cheap and because my meter's not working).

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    I installed an oil block off kit and a primer kit. I haven't checked the compression, yet. A little scared of what I might find, but she runs hard. I'll check the compression soon and do the topend in the off season if I need to. It had a good amount of hull damage, but luckily, i had some epoxy resin and hardener from a previously abandoned boat project and re-did all the half-assed hull repairs. Also had to replace a cracked/broken jet nozzle.

    So questions:

    1. Is it OK to run without the meter functioning and bypassed the way I have it?
    2. When I hit the stop button, the engine shakes and rattles while winding down. Could this be blown motor mounts?
    3. Is there a way to install an aftermarket fuel gauge?

    So All said and done, with the purchase price of the ski and trailer and replacement parts, I'm at around $950.


  2. #2
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by elbarto View Post
    So questions:

    1. Is it OK to run without the meter functioning and bypassed the way I have it? yes
    2. When I hit the stop button, the engine shakes and rattles while winding down. Could this be blown motor mounts? no, I think that's normal
    3. Is there a way to install an aftermarket fuel gauge? Not that I'm aware of, but if you can find a fuel level gauge that reads full at around 0-8 ohms of resistance and read EMPTY at around 800 ohms then you could wire it into the stock fuel level sensor. Or just ride until it stalls, switch over to Reserve and ride back home

    So All said and done, with the purchase price of the ski and trailer and replacement parts, I'm at around $950.
    You got a good deal there. Answers in red up above

  3. #3
    I wanna go FAAAAASTer!! CDW78's Avatar
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    You got a good deal there.
    No doubt he did. I'd love to run across a 97 that cheap, esp running! Good luck with it!


    BTW - I've got a working display from a 99 gp1200 I want to get rid of, PM if you're interested! ( I have all the parts from a 99, just sold the engine )

  4. #4

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    So i bought a used meter off ebay. I hope it works, but the seller said if it didn't, I could return it. I have the oil block off kit installed and want to take the oil tank out, just to be cleaner in there. i know most ziptie the oil level sending unit, but if I'm removing it, how do I bypass the sending? I read somewhere that you solder a jumper, but I thought ohms were 0 at empty. Would I need a resistor to make it work?

    Also, took a look under the ski and was happy to see the ride plate was a Shred Master. I hear these are pretty good.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Also found out it's a Pro Tec intake grate.

    I have the stock plastic trim tabs and I'm thinking of making my own. Is there and advantage/disadvantage to extending to the end of the hull? I noticed the stock tabs only go back half way.

  5. #5

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    A couple more questions.

    The ride plate is attached with bolts that protrude from the plate. Is there a way to countersink them and still be strong enough to hold?

    Would it be beneficial to shim this ride plate? I ride in Mission Bay and sometimes its choppy. I haven't noticed any porpoising but I'm new to jetskis and maybe I don't realize it's doing it.

  6. #6
    Yamaha artisan Cutlass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by elbarto View Post
    but if I'm removing it, how do I bypass the sending? I read somewhere that you solder a jumper, but I thought ohms were 0 at empty. Would I need a resistor to make it work?
    I have the stock plastic trim tabs and I'm thinking of making my own. Is there and advantage/disadvantage to extending to the end of the hull?
    A resistor should work to bypass the oil level sending unit. You'll have to look in the service manual and find the resistance range and pick a resistor somewhere in that range. Or measure the sending unit resistance to find out.
    Not sure on the trim tabs but they'll probably affect the handling and wetted surface when on plane. Longer tabs may slow down your top speed. Since you making your own, you can experiment all you want!

  7. #7
    i dont have a gp, but the ride plate bolts on my raider are way up in there, no way they could protrude..so can't answer that maybe so other gp owners can...doesnt seem right though imo..

    as far as shimming, if you dont mind how it handles now, leave it be..or if you are a person that cant leave things alone like me, try shimming and see what you think..as for porpoising , its very noticeable imo. My brother had a gp for a bit and its like constant bouncing even on flat water...very annoying. If its choppy though you probably won't notice much because you're bouncing anyway and may even enjoy it more in those conditions...

  8. #8

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    Bypassing the meter

    Quote Originally Posted by elbarto View Post
    I pick this up off Craigslist for $700 with a galvanized trailer. i clean her up and removed all the Monster decals.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	GP1200-1.jpg 
Views:	608 
Size:	48.7 KB 
ID:	301807

    Previous owner bought it from an auction and replaced the battery and locked himself out. He didn't know about the lock feature so he started troubleshooting and taking things apart. He couldn't get it started so here I come. I brought it home, put the starter switch back together, reset the meter, hit the start button... And nothing. I jumped the starter relay and got the motor to spin, but a loud clanking came from the starter, then the starter motor just spun. Replaced the bendix. Installed a new starter relay, hit the start button, then...Nothing. The kill switch was sticking, so I took it apart and one of the brass tabs was missing. Bought a used switch off ebay. installed it, hit the start button, then... Nothing.

    I bypassed the meter and wallah!!! Engine started, then died. Siphoned the old gas out. Put new gas in and she's alive, with a lot of white smoke. Every time I try to connect the meter, the engine starts automatically, so I've been running it with the meter bypassed. Took it out twice and she hauls butt. It came with an aftermarket ride plate and I bought an aftermarket intake grate off ebay (sorry, I forget the brands). I also ordered a waterproof tachometer/hour meter (because it was cheap and because my meter's not working).

    Name:  Intake Grate.JPG
Views: 514
Size:  1.6 KB

    I installed an oil block off kit and a primer kit. I haven't checked the compression, yet. A little scared of what I might find, but she runs hard. I'll check the compression soon and do the topend in the off season if I need to. It had a good amount of hull damage, but luckily, i had some epoxy resin and hardener from a previously abandoned boat project and re-did all the half-assed hull repairs. Also had to replace a cracked/broken jet nozzle.

    So questions:
    1. Is it OK to run without the meter functioning and bypassed the way I have it?
    2. When I hit the stop button, the engine shakes and rattles while winding down. Could this be blown motor mounts?
    3. Is there a way to install an aftermarket fuel gauge?
    So All said and done, with the purchase price of the ski and trailer and replacement parts, I'm at around $950.

    Question, when you say bypassed the meter what did you do? Did you just connect the green and pink wires?
    I have a friends GP1200 that won't crank unless that connector is unplugged.
    It only has spark on #2 cylinder and we have changed complete electrical systems.
    You got a deal on the one you got!

  9. #9

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    I'll check how I did the connections when I get home and take some pics too. I basically disconnected the meter plugs and connected 2 other's to each other.

  10. #10

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    Took it out for the 3rd time since I've had it. Everything's running great. Brought out my Samsung Galaxy Note 2 with a GPS Speedometer app and had 2 high speed runs at 55mph and 54mph. I was a Mission Bay with mild to moderate chop. I think stock speed is somewhere around there. I still have to replace the ride plate bolts the aren't countersunk. In the off season, I'm going to repair the bottom of the hull. Just noticed there is some extensive damage that someone tried to repair. It looks like they riveted a backing plate and glassed over it. I'll ride it through the summer. I hope it makes it till then.

    All in all, I'm pretty happy with this one. It's my first watercraft so I didn't know what I was getting into. I'm glad i didn't get burned on it. I took a big gamble with it not running and not being able to do a compression check before I brought it home.

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