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  1. #1

    01 polaris virage stator replacement

    Im in the process of swapping the stator out of my 01 polaris virage 1200 tx carbed version. I got 21mm nut off the fly wheel and got a puller on it with quite a bit of force on it. The 3 small allen head bolts dont need to come off to do they? Just wanted to check before I crank down on the puller.


  2. #2
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    The small timing ring bolts do NOT need to be removed. They should stay as they are.

    I would reinstall the large flywheel nut and leave just a few turns of slack/gap between the nut and the flywheel. When the flywheel does eventually release the nut will prevent the whole thing from flying right off and damaging something or injuring someone.

    It can take a lot of force to get the flywheel to let go. Sometimes it just needs to sit with the tension for a while. Sometimes it needs a sharp hammer blow on the end of the puller bolt. Sometimes it needs torch heat on the flywheel. Sometimes it needs all three.

    When it does let go, there may be significant and sudden violence. So put that nut on there.

  3. #3
    i finally got it loose i put a bigger bar on it and it finally came like you said. Now when I went to take the stator off i noticed it was loose and just flooping around is that common?

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    Quote Originally Posted by badnblack55 View Post
    ... Now when I went to take the stator off i noticed it was loose and just flooping around is that common?
    Stator should not be loose. No flooping.

  5. #5
    That was what I thought it has wore some on the magnet in the flywheel is there a maximum gap for this? Also Im thanking this may have caused some of my wild readings when testing the stator. Since the stator is out now cant I just test for continuity from the base of the stator to each of the windings? If they have it I could assume the stator is good was just moving around causing my no spark?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by badnblack55 View Post
    That was what I thought it has wore some on the magnet in the flywheel is there a maximum gap for this? Also Im thanking this may have caused some of my wild readings when testing the stator. Since the stator is out now cant I just test for continuity from the base of the stator to each of the windings? If they have it I could assume the stator is good was just moving around causing my no spark?
    You certainly can ohm test the stator coils with the stator out of the engine.

    Sometimes a stator can test good when the engine is not running, yet engine vibration and heat can cause it to not actually be good when the stator is in actual use.

    Be sure to clean out any metal particles from the flywheel magnets, the stator itself and the flywheel housing.

  7. #7
    Alright so would I use my 9 volt battery and do that test or just test the hall effect or do both still? Sorry for all the questions and thanks for all the help so far.

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    Quote Originally Posted by badnblack55 View Post
    Alright so would I use my 9 volt battery and do that test or just test the hall effect or do both still? Sorry for all the questions and thanks for all the help so far.
    Hall Effect sensor test out of the engine would be rather crude, since the trigger magnet is part of the flywheel timing ring.

    Mostly it would be the coil ohm tests, continuity through the coil and non-continuity to the stator metal plate.

  9. #9
    ok so after I seen the stator loose i decided to tighten it back up and put it back togather check stator and hall effect and everything checks good but still no spark. I have 11 volts cranking and 8 volts after cranking for a few seconds out of the tan wire from the cdi. Does the LR505 apply to this ski I could not find instructions for bypassing it on my ski just others.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by badnblack55 View Post
    ok so after I seen the stator loose i decided to tighten it back up and put it back togather check stator and hall effect and everything checks good but still no spark. I have 11 volts cranking and 8 volts after cranking for a few seconds out of the tan wire from the cdi. Does the LR505 apply to this ski I could not find instructions for bypassing it on my ski just others.
    All Virage and Genesis carb models have LR-505 Start/Stop module, and the bypass methods are the same for all.

    All Virage and Genesis Fuel injected models use the similar LR-503 Start/Stop module, with similar but slightly different bypass methods.

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