Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    12

    Unhappy 97 GTX No Spark after carb rebuild/fuel line replacement

    I have spent several hours reading here...and while finding some problems that are related, I have not found an answer to my problem yet. Thank you for reading and thank you ahead for your reply.

    This ski ran perfectly for the last 2 years, but the fuel lines were original and the selector valve had never been cleaned, so we decided to do it proactively. (Sounds smart, right? Maybe it wasn't.) After replacing fuel lines, cleaning selector valve, and cleaning of all the dual carb parts (especially the small interior filters, which weren't too dirty) followed by reassembly, there is no spark.

    It was discovered that the 3 year old battery (out of the ski and on a battery maintainer for 6 months) was not holding a charge, so it was replaced with a brand new battery.

    One mistake...when the battery was installed the battery cables were installed backwards initially (red to minus, black to positive) and trying the lanyard and start button a couple of times it was discovered and corrected. Could this have caused the problem?

    (Yes, the smaller black wire that comes from the coil box by the battery was connected to the positive terminal, along with the negative (black) battery cable. Of course when we corrected the backwards connections this was attached properly.) Did we fry something? Ugh.

    After fixing the mixed up battery cable connections, the engine started after choking for about 30 seconds (which is normal for this ski) but only ran for less than 5 seconds. It has not started since then.

    We get no beeps, and the engine turns over but will not start. There is no spark at the spark plugs. All fuses have been checked and all grounds have been checked, some cleaned (though none looked like they needed it), and the voltage at the starter is right at 10 volts during cranking.

    Fuel delivery to the cylinders appears to be normal. Spark plugs were not replaced, but have only about 8 hours on them from last season.

    Ran Advanced Self-Diagnostic Mode for DESS, but we never get the short beep and then the long beep to validate the beginning of the diagnostic mode, and we have the same non-starting, no-spark condition afterwards.

    Unplugged the beeper and checked with multimeter...get a brief almost 10 volt reading when the lanyard is plugged in, but the meter goes immediately back to 0. Is this normal behavior? Something tells me the current should continue flowing through this part of the DESS as long as the lanyard is plugged in?

    Any assistance/guidance will be appreciated. Thanks.


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    Posts
    6,523
    +1
    1,270
    Quote Originally Posted by Greyhair View Post
    One mistake...when the battery was installed the battery cables were installed backwards initially (red to minus, black to positive) and trying the lanyard and start button a couple of times it was discovered and corrected. Could this have caused the problem?

    (Yes, the smaller black wire that comes from the coil box by the battery was connected to the positive terminal, along with the negative (black) battery cable. Of course when we corrected the backwards connections this was attached properly.) Did we fry something? Ugh..
    most likely the igniter has been destroyed

    unfortunate as a new igniter is very very expensive, start looking on ebay ( it's actually an "igniter"), not the mpem

    this misconnection between the single thin wire at the battery box is pretty common mistake to be made. zip tie it to the ground cable for future.

    now check all fuses before the next step

    beepers are unreliable and on an older ski, it can be a hit or miss depending on outside temps and battery levels.

    if the engine cranks when the lanyard is on the mpem is working. check the cdi box, it's mounted under the hood..check the wires carefully, if you see one that is burnt ( memory tells me it was the white wire with the black stripe is the one that melts on a polarity reversal), then the cdi is bad.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    12
    <<most likely the igniter has been destroyed

    unfortunate as a new igniter is very very expensive, start looking on ebay ( it's actually an "igniter"), not the mpem>>





    First...thank you for the reply!

    Igniter. Ok. I have read through my manual and looked online. Are you talking about this device: Name:  Igniter.JPG
Views: 519
Size:  6.3 KB that is at this location on ebay. It is described there as:
    NEW WSM SEA DOO IGNITER PACK IGNITION COIL SP 1992-1997

    ....or are you talking about a different component?


    if the engine cranks when the lanyard is on the mpem is working. check the cdi box, it's mounted under the hood..check the wires carefully, if you see one that is burnt ( memory tells me it was the white wire with the black stripe is the one that melts on a polarity reversal), then the cdi is bad.[/QUOTE]

    I have checked all the wires and all the components in the box upfront, and I don't find any burnt wires or any components that have physical damage at all.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00963.jpg 
Views:	153 
Size:	97.7 KB 
ID:	302005Of course this is where I'm looking.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00962.jpg 
Views:	103 
Size:	74.9 KB 
ID:	302006 And this is a close up of the only place a white with black stripe wire appears.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00961.jpg 
Views:	69 
Size:	37.4 KB 
ID:	302007 An even closer -'close-up'. White with black stripe is the second one from the bottom in the group of 4.
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	DSC00964.jpg 
Views:	110 
Size:	80.8 KB 
ID:	302008 And this is the other part of this box. You aren't talking about this component in the upper right of this picture, are you?

    Appreciate your help so much...

  4. #4
    surferd15's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Fort Lauderdale, FL
    Posts
    1,142
    +1
    83
    Good stuff above however your CDI box is located in the rear of the ski by the battery-black box. If there is water or corrosion in here clean it all up and it might spark. You will see the spark plug wires go to a box that is the coil-"igniter" he spoke about. Just read you reversed battery install, you blew a fuse so check them I did that once when I first started.

  5. #5
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    Posts
    6,523
    +1
    1,270
    the only thing in the electric box in the rear of the ski is the ignition coil, solenoid and fuses.

    Might be some confusion about the 97 GTX using the secondary cdi box..it shows on the 96 Fitch only, but I've seen it on a 97. Might have been an electrical system transplant.

    If there is a secondary electrical unit mounted to the cover of the forward electrical vault, THAT's what you have to check for a smoked wire on white/blackstripe. The box has a Mitsubishi label on it.

    if your vault only has a single electrical box, I can't tell you where to go, except to check the fuses there and in the rear box ( also check for water while you are in there, the gasket is tricky and if there is water, a bad ground at the ignition coil can be a problem.

    The OP connected the battery backwards..better then even odds that the mpem/cdi is ruined since the dess function is working as is the start signal to the solenoid

    here's what I believe is a 96/97 electrical vault..the cdi witht he white/black wire is mounted inside the cover

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	cdi.jpg 
Views:	152 
Size:	64.2 KB 
ID:	302065
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    Posts
    6,523
    +1
    1,270
    really weird posting here..something wrong with the forum software..I just got notice on your message with the pics!

    the square bit with the three yellow wires is the rectifier/regulator

    looks like you have a single mpem/cdi box.

    the wsm part is simply an ignition coil..it is NOT the igniter.

    Have you checked all the fuses with a meter (eyeballing sometimes will not detect a defective fuse)

    tread carfully here..mistakes can often destroy electrical components including replacements, and you'll find that nobody is going to sell you a cdi box with any kind of warranty for a self install.

    Sniff at your ignition coil for burnt ordors and examine it for any signs of bursting ( cracks in plastic)..you may have gotten lucky and just smoked the ignition coil. There is a spec for the ignition coil resistance in the service manual.

  7. #7

    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Alabama
    Posts
    12

    Unhappy Nothing has made a difference so far....

    The black box is dry as a bone (dealt with this in the past so I knew to check it), and all fuses everywhere are good. No smells of burnt anything, no wires burnt anywhere, no cracked plastic or anything that looked bad.

    I also own a '97 GTI, and after reading everything here (and checking the coil using a meter and the manual specs and instructions-checked good) I decided to swap my coils after determining that they are identical on my two machines.

    Result...no change.

    My GTI now runs on the coil that was in the GTX, and my GTX still turns over but has no spark. I have fuel delivery to each plug. i swapped the plugs and the plug wires (independently) from one machine to the other, and it remains exactly the same....GTI runs, GTX turns over but has no spark.

    Before each swap I disconnected battery and removed fuses. Re-installed fuses after each job, and checked them after no spark condition. All fuses are good and not being blown by anything.

    I think by doing this I have eliminated fuses, plug wires and ignition coil as the culprit.

    Am I down to trying to run tests on the box up front?

    If I understand everything here, that box contains everything that is called the MPEM. I realize it also holds the rectifier.

    Any suggestions? Again, this machine ran perfectly before mistakenly reversing polarity upon battery install.

    Thanks ahead of time for your help!
    Last edited by Greyhair; 06-15-2013 at 11:55 AM. Reason: no responses

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 08-08-2013, 10:06 PM
  2. 95 SLT Issues after Carb rebuild/ fuel upgrades
    By Drkvampire2001 in forum Polaris Open Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 05-24-2012, 09:09 PM
  3. 1996 Seadoo GTX Backfiring after Carb Rebuild
    By JukeboxRob in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-22-2011, 10:08 AM
  4. No fuel slh700 after carb rebuild..
    By Nate414 in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 06-18-2011, 01:35 AM
  5. 97 GTX No Spark
    By Jeff77z28 in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 06-17-2009, 07:33 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •