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  1. #1

    97 SL700 DLX removing flywheel nut - do i need more tools?

    So this weekend I finally got around to installing the genIII CDI update kit on my ski. Yesterday I got all the electrical work done, and had hoped to install the stator today. I am doing this inside the ski, and i can confirm that it is not the easiest way to do it. My problem is that now I am looking at the flywheel nut, and am unable to remove it. I tried a cordless drill/driver, which turned the engine a couple of times, then started to release some of its magic smoke (the drill's smoke, not the ski's) and now it won't turn the engine at all. My question is whether or not i need to go pick up an impact wrench (or driver? still not 100% sure about the difference). I plan to get an early start on it tomorrow and spray the nut with some liquid wrench. I don't have a torch of any sort to use on it but I've read some people suggest that i avoid such tactics. I know of the rope method for preventing the flywheel from turning, but currently i do not see it turning at all. If I buy an impact driver will that have the torque to get it turning again? I'm very close to the end of this project but am running out of time.

    I also removed two small screws from the face of the flywheel after it quit turning and I'm not sure what they do, their presence did not seem to make a difference. I circled where they were in green.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    my last question is about the timing marks? I believe this is on the crank shaft behind the flywheel? I once the flywheel is off i simply need to mark the orientation of the wheel with the orientation of the marks already on the shaft and ensure that I line them up properly, right? is there more to it than this? I see in the instructions that I need to check the timing before taking the ski out again, but if it is wrong do i have to dismantle the flywheel again?

    any help and suggestions to make this easier on myself would be much appreciated.


  2. #2
    ThrottleOut's Avatar
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    I did an ignition update on one of my SL's last year and I pulled the motor to do it. I think there may be enough room to pull the flywheel in the hull but it's definitely going to be cramped and you're going to need some compact tools. The bolt holes you circled in green are the bolts you loosen to advance or retard the timing. The timing marks are on the flywheel and can be seen from the sight hole in the top of the stator housing assembly. You'll see a plastic hex stud that goes into the top (you can see it in the top of the housing almost in the center of the cylinder in your pic) and that will get removed so you can use a timing light to check timing.

    The flywheel nut is probably easiest to remove with an impact. I'm not sure if an impact drill would have the torque to pull it or not. On mine I used a 1/2" drive pneumatic impact and that pulled it right off. The three bolt holes are what you will need to thread into with a puller. I found the easiest way to do that was to tighten the puller with an impact and tap the end of the puller (the long bolt) to try to pop it loose. Be warned though that when the flywheel does come loose it'll probably pop off and everything will go flying. I'd recommend holding it with a pair of gloves and wearing safety glasses just in case.

  3. #3
    ah crap, so if i hadn't removed those two screws I wouldn't have to worry about the timing then?

    I also re-read the manual again and realized that they use red locktite on that bolt, so before i go buy new tools I guess i'll have to try some heat in there and soften it up.

    i did get a puller, and that'll be the next step, i remember to have gloves and glasses on when i get to that step, thanks a lot for your help, hopefully this pays off tomorrow.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Put the flywheel nut back on, but leave it a few turns loose. It will prevent the flywheel from launching into orbit when the puller and flywheel lets go

  5. #5
    ThrottleOut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Put the flywheel nut back on, but leave it a few turns loose. It will prevent the flywheel from launching into orbit when the puller and flywheel lets go
    That's a good idea but you may want to use a different nut to hold it from flying apart. The outside face of that nut is what is used to drive the oil pump and I could potentially see a gear puller damaging that with how much force it can take to pop a flywheel loose. When I did the one on my SL it wasn't too bad and it actually came off pretty easily but I've seen and heard of some that require heat and a lot of force to get it to pop free.

  6. #6
    David Drkvampire2001's Avatar
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    I pulled my fly wheel in about 5 minutes, used a harmonic balancer puller with my IR impact wrench( does roughly 800Lbs reverse torque)

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThrottleOut View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Put the flywheel nut back on, but leave it a few turns loose. It will prevent the flywheel from launching into orbit when the puller and flywheel lets go
    That's a good idea but you may want to use a different nut to hold it from flying apart. The outside face of that nut is what is used to drive the oil pump and I could potentially see a gear puller damaging that with how much force it can take to pop a flywheel loose. When I did the one on my SL it wasn't too bad and it actually came off pretty easily but I've seen and heard of some that require heat and a lot of force to get it to pop free.
    SOme of the flywheel nuts have the oil pump drive machined into the nut. Others use a plastic cap that slips over the nut. If you have this type, with the plastic cap removed, you can use the original nut on the threads. If your oil pump drive is actually part of the nut, then use a different nut. Or you could skip the nut and do it right on the floor on top of an old piece of carpet to prevent damage when the flywheel pops.

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