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  1. #1
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    98 SLXH slow to getting sparks (domestic engine)

    Works done:
    Updated ignition (CDI + Stator)
    Removed ground between battery and E-box
    Red/Purple to Orange terminal

    Issue:
    Have to crank (hold Start button) at least 2 to 5 seconds before seeing sparks
    Does not matter if on trailer, in water, cold engine, warm engine or even immediate shut down and restart.

    Trouble shooting so far:
    Battery voltage
    Swapped LR module
    Ground wires
    Wiggle/reconnect all E-box connections
    MFD is bad, I tried with and without it make no difference
    Hold Bilge pump while start (pump runs)
    Clip 1/4" off spark wires

    Next to do:
    Ohms check stator
    Putting Red/Purple back maybe?

    Before the ignition update it would fire instantly as Start button is pushed. Any idea/suggestions? TIA.
    Other than that issue, it runs great. Here's a little clip from Monday:

    Last edited by loonatik; 05-29-2013 at 11:06 AM. Reason: trouble shoot list


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    If you hold the Bilge button down, do you get spark near instantly?

  3. #3
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    Forgot adding it to the list.
    Yes, I did try that too but didn't help

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by loonatik View Post
    Forgot adding it to the list.
    Yes, I did try that too but didn't help
    Does the Bilge button actually run the bilge pump?

    Does the engine cranking RPM gradually increase as you hold the Start button down?

  5. #5
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Does the Bilge button actually run the bilge pump?

    Does the engine cranking RPM gradually increase as you hold the Start button down?
    Yes, pump does run.
    No, cranking RPM stays constant from start (fresh starter)

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by loonatik View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Does the Bilge button actually run the bilge pump?

    Does the engine cranking RPM gradually increase as you hold the Start button down?
    Yes, pump does run.
    No, cranking RPM stays constant from start (fresh starter)


    Possibilities...
    Battery voltage sags for a few seconds until engine is up to full cranking speed
    CDI or stator is 'lazy' when waking up and powering up

    Try connecting CDI directly to Red/Purple terminals. This takes the LR module out of the picture.

    Got another known good battery to try?

  7. #7
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    Thanks K,
    I'll give those a try later today. My SLX 1200 does not have this issue so I figure its battery should be good to swap with.

  8. #8
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    Update.
    Swapping to different battery didn't solve it. Putting Red/Purple back to its original did.
    We always have at least two skis out at a time, I guess I can take my chance on the 'Reliable warm start' then.
    Again, thanks for the help K!

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by loonatik View Post
    Update.
    Swapping to different battery didn't solve it. Putting Red/Purple back to its original did.
    We always have at least two skis out at a time, I guess I can take my chance on the 'Reliable warm start' then...
    So either the LR module is lazy and slow to bring power to the Orange wire when the engine starts cranking, or the CDI is slow to actually wake up when it first gets power.

    I am surprised that holding down the Bilge button did not make a difference

  10. #10
    Polarisitis loonatik's Avatar
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    Well as it turns out neither CDI, stator or LR module has anything to do with my slow to spark problem.
    After a few short rides the problem got worse and eventual there were either no sparks at all or few short burst of sparks then nothing
    After methodically checking everything I found (2) spark plug boots were out of specs (open connection) and (2) plug wires also open right at the coil I guess somehow it made the connection again when moving Red/Purple back to its original place, that's why my problem just simply went away.
    Clipped the wires, changed the boots life is good again
    But I really have to kick myself here for being so smart. I pulled the engine to check hall affects first before decided to check the boots and coil, the easy stuffs LOL

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