05-31-2013, 10:46 AM #1
New Project 02 GP1200R seized 3rd cylinder!GP1200R Rebuild
Hello all, Picked up a 02 GP1200R on deal that I will be rebuilding. It has a seized #3 cylinder compression was #60 due to the infamous oil lines popping off. Number 2 cylinder was on its way to a seizure compression was #125 (#2 oil line had also popped off) but only minimal scarring was observed ( I canít feel any scarring when I Rub my finger inside).Is it possible that this cylinder can be honed and reused?Number 1 cylinder was fine compression was #125 also (oil line was just about off) so I will hone it and be good to go with new pistons. I will be using Wiseco piston and ring kits this is what Iíve always used for my four wheeler rebuilds so Iím assuming they are just as good for PWCís. What is the best choiceís for the #1 cylinder re-sleeve or just get a new or used one in good shape from the internet? Iíve seen steel sleeves online for about $80 is this better than nickel sealed sleeves and do I need all steel sleeves if I change one? To reuse the crank and crank bearings is a concern. It looks like the crank is fine no metal in there and no overheat signs that I can see and no play or slack in the rod bearings. Is there a way to check and see if itís within spec without having to split the case? Has anyone reused a crank from a seized engine with similar characteristics?
Jet Pump upgrades (Already Installed).
The jet pump has a couple different mods that im not too familiar with. I have read if you upgrade one item it affects anothers performance. Hereís what it got: Ride Plate, Pump shoe plug kit, Intake grate replacement, Solas Impeller 13/19, Pump seal kit & Beach House sponsons. It also has a free flow exhaust but not sure if this will affect pump.
So far the engine is completely stock except for the free flow exhaust. I will be replacing the cat with a D-plate and chip, Removing oil pump and premix 40:1, after market flame arrestor with carb jets upgrade (120 mains 110 pilots 45 pop-off). Any other upgrades that I may need to do while Iím in there?
Thanks for reading guys and any response from you is greatly appreciated!
Last edited by firstname.lastname@example.org; 06-01-2013 at 10:47 AM.
05-31-2013, 06:37 PM #2
Sounds like you are on the wright track. the nikaseal cylinder is the way to go as far as top of the line cylinders. there is a company called Millennium technologies that replates them and they look like new when you get them back. so you are getting a like new cylinder for a fraction of the price. http://www.mt-llc.com/
06-06-2013, 04:34 AM #3
Preciate the contact. Talked to them yesterday and the price sounds good.
05-20-2014, 11:40 PM #4
Update on rebuild and need help of course!
Hey guys having issues with a fresh rebuild on my 02 GP1200R. Completed rebuild couple of weeks ago and put it on the hose to run. Cranked up and idled fine let it warm up for a few minutes. Very crisp throttle response right off the throttle but bogs anywhere after that unless you feather it a bit then will rev up to about 6500 7000rpmís max and It loads up when you let off. Will continue to rev high with no throttle for a few seconds before coming back down to a regular idle. I also noticed a good bit of oil on the ground but I put about a tablespoon of yamalube in each crank case during rebuild to lube crank bearings during start up. Brought ski to the lake to run and did the same thing. I have clear fuel lines installed and I noticed air bubbles in the lines while running. I bypassed the fuel cut off valve thinking the valve was bad but after running again it ran the same and continued to have air bubbles in fuel line. Is this normal? So today I removed the exhaust to get to the carbs and the remaining water in it was very oily and smelled of gas. Thinking Iím running way rich but canít decide where to start. Also my plugs are giving me mixed feelings. See PicsÖ Where should I start on carbs? Is there anything I should check before I pull carbs? Please see ski history and upgrades below and thanks for looking.
2002 GP1200R with 55 hours. Bought it used with no mods on engine and a spent # 3 cylinder due to oil line popping off.
Had #3 Cylinder re-nickel sealed by millennium. #1 and 2 cylinders diamond honed by local shop.
Thoroughly flushed crank case with yamalube and removed all metal. Bearings and rods were good .
Installed new WSM platinum top end rebuild kit. Current compression is 120 across the board.
Installed new SBT reeds.
All carburetors modified (see mods below) and rebuilt with original Mikuni kits.
Installed new throttle valve on #1 carburetor due to bent valve during carb rebuild.
PVís are operating correctly.
- D plate with Chip.
- R&D intake Plenum.
- Osideís drilled retun on carburetors mod. 95 gram main jet tapped into last carbís return to tank.
- Osideís carburetor upgrade and accelerator pump removal mod. 110 pilots 1 turn out / 120 main 1 Ĺ turn out 1.5 N&S with 95 gram springs. Pop off set at 45psi on all three carbs.
- Did not remove choke valves
- Removed fuel flapper on fuel pick up.
- Removed oil injection and premix 40:1.
- Wave eater clips installed.
- SBT reeds
- Bypassed fuel cut off switch.
01-12-2016, 09:15 PM #5
FYI, I had the high speed and low speed adjustment screws on the carbs crossed up. Sorry for the late update thought I did this a year ago.
01-13-2016, 12:30 AM #6
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
Your are very very rich... Prolly need to get a new set of plugs and go 1/3 and 1/2 turn in, and be sure to plug lanyard, don't idle in.
01-15-2016, 03:52 PM #7
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
I agree with the other way rich. One thing that has me a little concerned is the high revving when you let the throttle off. Hard to be sure but that sounds like an air leak. Did you pressure / leak down test after rebuild ?
01-19-2016, 12:06 AM #8
Sorry for the confusion guys, my last post was the fix to my issues. On all three carburetors The high speed adjustment screw was in the low speed adjustment hole... And vise versa. Somehow I crossed them up when I rebuilt them.
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