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  1. #1

    Unhappy XLT 1200 won't go faster than 30 mph

    Hi guys. I need a little of your expertise here.

    Here's the short story: PWC won't go faster than 30 mph and my compression is good - 105 across the board.

    Detailed story: I got my 06 XLT 1200 out of storage yesterday and it would not start. I determined the battery needed replacement and went and got one. I replaced the plugs and it still was a b!tch to get going in the yard, but it finally did start. I didn't have to add any fuel to the cylinders.

    Got to the lake and it started right up. After about 5 minutes it was bogging down and wouldn't rev more than 3000. That equated to about 3-5 mph. We headed back to shore and I dropped the wife off. It started right back up and seemed fine until I WOT'd it and it would not go more than 30 mph.

    Can the fuel be the issue? I didn't put any stabilizer in last fall.

    During my inspection today I noticed that there are three hoses coming from the fuel tank cap. I haven't found a drawing yet, but it appears two go to the Main\Reserve switch and the middle one goes to the engine. For some reason the middle hose goes up and around one of the others and has a small kink in it. I don't know if this is my problem, but something I will be fixing.

    Hoping you guys can help me out. Thanks

  2. #2
    Ski Hacks MG's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    ALWAYS drain your fuel at the start of the season if you dont stabilize it in the winterization process. I'd replace the fuel filter, pull the fuel lines and clean everything out good and then put fresh fuel in it.

  3. #3
    Understand about draining the fuel. But do my symptoms sound like a bad fuel issue?

    And how do I 'clean everything out' after removing the fuel from the tank?


  4. #4
    jstanfi1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Lafayette, Indiana
    Pull the plugs and check to be sure all three cylinders are firing correctly. Search the site for signs of lean/rich mix, etc. Also, 105 compression is getting pretty low. At a minimum I'd consider getting another gauge to test. Compression under 110 is definitely going to cause a performance drop, but not near what you're describing.

    Otherwise...sounds like a fuel/carb issue. There's no easy fix for bad fuel gumming up the carbs, and if that's it you're probably going to be in for removing the carbs for a cleaning at this point. At 7 years old without stabilizing winter fuel, I would personally not pull the carbs without rebuilding or having them rebuilt.

    With a compression that low, I'd think about going forward with a top end rebuild while you have the carbs off. With the niksil plating you may get away with just pistons and rings. Also gives you a chance to clean the power valves and minimize the chances of them sticking or worse later. Good luck!

  5. #5
    Although it's a 2005,it only has about 30 hours on it. I bought it two years ago from a dealer who did carb work before the sale.
    And I think I may have done the compression test incorrectly. I did not hold the throttle open while starting. Perhaps that would be the reason for my lower than ideal numbers???
    I'm new to this kind of stuff... how do i check that the cylinders are firing correctly? thanks.

  6. #6
    bscpaint's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    LongIsland NY
    If you change the fuel and its still doing the same thing i would bring it right back to the ramp and hae those carbs rebuilt, that is if you want to keep your compression even. how long did it sit in storage? sounds like all the crap that sat in the carbs all winter clogged those little filters inside.

  7. #7
    It sat for about 7 months. Should I even bother trying different plugs and fuel filter?

  8. #8
    mudslanger's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Huntsville Al
    I wouldn't wast any more time doing anything other than rebuilding the carbs with kits from Yamaha. Wile you got the pipe off put a D plate in it and the wave eater clips on the powervalves. Also wile you got the carbs off cut about 2 inches off the oil line cover so you can loosen and reposition the oil lines. When you do that trim about a half inch off the oil lines so you are going back on the carbs with a tight fitting line.

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