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  1. #1

    MSX Motor Install Help...

    I acquired a pair of MSX-150s for a little of nothing. One was running the end of last year, one just had a complete motor rebuild. I am reassembling the second one now.. I have all wiring hooked up, and am working on the propulsion parts now.. I am having issues with the engine and pump coupler.. They are separated and I dont know how to get the rubber piece in place and slide them together.. The motor was in place when I got this, should the rubber piece have been put in before? What can I do now??

    Thanks in advance. I am new to the site but will be on here a lot with the new toys.
    Thanks guys.
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  2. #2
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    If the jet pump is not installed, I think you can slide the drive shaft back and make enough room to slip it all in. If the jet pump is installed, I would guess you need to remove it.

  3. #3
    The pump, extension, impeller, and pump stator are all removed. The drive shaft is all that is sticking out through the hull, but it will not budge forward or back...

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troyer23J View Post
    The pump, extension, impeller, and pump stator are all removed. The drive shaft is all that is sticking out through the hull, but it will not budge forward or back...
    Sounds like the bearing inside the through-hull bearing carrier has seized onto the drive shaft.

    With the engine out, unbolt the bearing carrier from the hull and remove it with the drive shaft by sliding it forward into the hull.

    Remove the drive shaft from the carrier, then rebuild the carrier with new bearings and seals. If the driveshaft is badly scored, replace it. If the rubber spider is distorted from use, install a new one.

    To unscrew the drive shaft from the coupler, there is a special tool that fits onto the splines so you can put a wrench on the end of shaft.

  5. #5
    So the shaft should slide forward and back if its not seized? I didn't do the original tear down, but if the motor came out and the shaft didn't move, how would it be off by two inches now that its back in? I guess it could have slid back during tear down then seized there. It has been over a year since tear down..

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troyer23J View Post
    So the shaft should slide forward and back if its not seized? I didn't do the original tear down, but if the motor came out and the shaft didn't move, how would it be off by two inches now that its back in? I guess it could have slid back during tear down then seized there. It has been over a year since tear down..
    The drive shaft is a snug fit, but not a friction/interference fit, inside the through-hull bearing.

    In normal operation, the drive shaft self positions itself between the impeller end (with small rubber bumper on that end of the drive shaft) and the coupler spider. It needs to be able to slide through the bearing carrier, otherwise it is creating side loads on the bearing carrier bearings and additional side loading on the jet pump stator bearings.

    These MSX through-hull bearings don't last forever to begin with. Normal replacement interval is every 100 hours or every few years. The actual bearings are steel and eventually they start rusting in there.

  7. #7
    Where is the best place to get the bearings? I cant get the drive shaft to budge either direction at all. I need bearings, the rubber bumper, and the rubber spider bushing..

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Troyer23J View Post
    Where is the best place to get the bearings? I cant get the drive shaft to budge either direction at all. I need bearings, the rubber bumper, and the rubber spider bushing..
    originally Polaris sold the entire bearing carrier assembly as one part. Later on they created a rebuild kit. The kit can be ordered from any of the parts sources listed via my signature links.

    The actual bearings and seals are standard sizes, and the specs are also listed in the MSX or Jet Pump sections, via signature links.

    Same OEM parts sources can provide the rubber spider, driveshaft end bumpers, etc.

    If the drive shaft surface is damaged then it too will need to be replaced.

  9. #9

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    I think Weber Power has a rebuild kit too.

  10. #10
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    Well... you're in a pickle. Even if the driveshaft coupler is not properly aligned with the engine coupler and that's the reason it won't slide forward... you still can't get that rubber coupler drive in-place since you won't be able to separate the two couplers far enough to get it in. Coupler drive has to be in-place before you drop the engine in place.

    Aside from that... sounds like you can't get your driveshaft to slide forward at all. Assuming it's not a mis-alignment issue and there is clearance for the driveshaft coupler to engage the engine coupler (should be room with no coupler drive in there)... it should slide forward. Push from the jet pump end of the driveshaft. Tap it lightly with a rubber mallet or something and see if it'll slide forward. It could be a mis-aligned engine coupler has jammed the driveshaft coupler somehow and it can't slide now.

    So you have 2 options. One is to lift the engine up so you can undo the bearing carrier and slide it under the engine and get it out of the hull. To lift the engine that high... you're going to have to pull the intake manifold off and the heat exchanger plus lower bracket off. This is a PITA. But at least you can then leave the turbo/exhaust side on. Gonna have to unhook the intercooler too and push it forward or strap it up and out of the way. But you should be able to leave the oil tank and such on. Then undo engine mount nuts and hoist the engine upwards and rearwards to clear enough room. Then pull out the unbolted bearing carrier and stuck driveshaft as one. Fix, reinsert, AND DON'T FORGET THE COUPLER DRIVE! Then lower engine and reverse process.

    Option #2... if you can get the driveshaft unstuck from bearing carrier... you can get a female driveshaft spline tool that has a hex head on it to put a socket and ratchet and big breaker bar/cheater pipe and unthread the driveshaft out of the driveshaft coupler. This is a PITA as they are VERY tight. But if you can... you won't have to move the engine. Then remove driveshaft out the back, grab unhooked driveshaft coupler, remove bearing carrier and rebuild if necessary. Insert the coupler drive rubber piece and reverse the process.

    Cheers!

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