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  1. #1

    Caught in a real dilemma.... 00' Seadoo RXDI

    So I have a Seadoo RXDI (205 hours) , with, rather quite extreme problems (in a sense)... I bought it after it had a top end rebuild done from the local seadoo dealership with an owner I happen to know personally (used to be a neighbour of mine) but it always had a weird sounding rattle when it ran, and, oddly, ran slower then my carbed RX... So luckily at our cottage we live next to the guy who takes care of all the seadoos/boats on the lake, and has been for a solid 30+ years... During winterization, he notices the rattle when running the engine and immediately noticed something wasn't ride... After cracking open the head and looking at the bill of sale for the top end rebuild from the dealer, we discover they over-bored the cylinders almost 4 sizes too big! In other words; the rattle is from the cylinders in the larger-then-should-be cylinders.... So, we have 3 options:

    1) Buy aftermarket Pistons which fit the cylinders and put them in (approx. $650)

    2) By a new cylinder head from Bombardier and put in the proper size pistons etc... (approx. $1500)

    3) Drop an entirely new short-block in the seadoo (approx. $3000)

    The reason the 3rd option is there is because no one knows what kinda shape the bottom end is in... In other words, we could spend $600 putting in aftermarket pistons, and then have the bottom end blow weeks later. Also because if I do this, I will probably never sell the machine (love the RX's).

    My question is, what would you guys do? Is there any way to check the shape of the bottom end without cracking open the crankcase? Would you risk the gamble? The top end rebuild was done by the dealer ship almost 2 years ago now...

    ANOTHER problem with the same machine.... Temporarily we have decided to put it back together and use it as is (mechanic thinks it's most likely fine, but if it blows he suggested just dropping a new block in). Anywho, after putting it back together, I put the key in and all seems well; machine beeps nicely and cranks over nicely. However the next day I do the same thing, I get a flashing "Maint" with the red light flashing, and it won't stop. I cannot reset the alert either so I know it isn't just a normal maintenance reminder. The mechanic suggested charging the battery or getting a new one and trying it, because the battery he threw in was old and not fully charged. My question here is, if it was the battery, wouldn't it display "Low voltage" instead of "maint"? Or is this worth a try? If not I have to trailer this thing to the dealership that messed up on the rebuild....

    Thanks so much for reading this, your opinions are highly valued.


  2. #2
    A top end rebuild wouldn't include pistons and machine work on the block would it? I'm confused

  3. #3
    wotxxxsd's Avatar
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    Rider til she pops and replace the entire motor and put another good 300+ hrs on her...



    Rip on..

  4. #4
    dan87951's Avatar
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    Apr 2010
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    Quote Originally Posted by usrockband View Post
    So I have a Seadoo RXDI (205 hours) , with, rather quite extreme problems (in a sense)... I bought it after it had a top end rebuild done from the local seadoo dealership with an owner I happen to know personally (used to be a neighbour of mine) but it always had a weird sounding rattle when it ran, and, oddly, ran slower then my carbed RX... So luckily at our cottage we live next to the guy who takes care of all the seadoos/boats on the lake, and has been for a solid 30+ years... During winterization, he notices the rattle when running the engine and immediately noticed something wasn't ride... After cracking open the head and looking at the bill of sale for the top end rebuild from the dealer, we discover they over-bored the cylinders almost 4 sizes too big! In other words; the rattle is from the cylinders in the larger-then-should-be cylinders.... So, we have 3 options:

    1) Buy aftermarket Pistons which fit the cylinders and put them in (approx. $650)

    2) By a new cylinder head from Bombardier and put in the proper size pistons etc... (approx. $1500)

    3) Drop an entirely new short-block in the seadoo (approx. $3000)

    The reason the 3rd option is there is because no one knows what kinda shape the bottom end is in... In other words, we could spend $600 putting in aftermarket pistons, and then have the bottom end blow weeks later. Also because if I do this, I will probably never sell the machine (love the RX's).

    My question is, what would you guys do? Is there any way to check the shape of the bottom end without cracking open the crankcase? Would you risk the gamble? The top end rebuild was done by the dealer ship almost 2 years ago now...

    ANOTHER problem with the same machine.... Temporarily we have decided to put it back together and use it as is (mechanic thinks it's most likely fine, but if it blows he suggested just dropping a new block in). Anywho, after putting it back together, I put the key in and all seems well; machine beeps nicely and cranks over nicely. However the next day I do the same thing, I get a flashing "Maint" with the red light flashing, and it won't stop. I cannot reset the alert either so I know it isn't just a normal maintenance reminder. The mechanic suggested charging the battery or getting a new one and trying it, because the battery he threw in was old and not fully charged. My question here is, if it was the battery, wouldn't it display "Low voltage" instead of "maint"? Or is this worth a try? If not I have to trailer this thing to the dealership that messed up on the rebuild....

    Thanks so much for reading this, your opinions are highly valued.
    If you plan on keeping it and never selling it, I would do it right -- Purchase a new Sea Doo short block and be done with it.

    I know on my 00 RX DI if the battery is low it will flash the maints light and sometimes both the 12v low and maints. Definitely check the battery first than try it again.

  5. #5
    If you redo the top end, it doesn't take much more to just split the cases and check the bottom end. You could rebuild the entire engine with reman crank for less than 2500. Waiting for it to blow would be a bad idea, it will take out the cases, and you will not have a core engine to exchange

  6. #6
    Thanks for the help guys, I know that was alot to swallow haha.

    Quote Originally Posted by padge View Post
    A top end rebuild wouldn't include pistons and machine work on the block would it? I'm confused
    I come from dirtbike engines and assumed the top end was everything down until the crank... Correct me if I'm wrong though please!

    Yea for now we've decided to go the route of throwing a new block in there... So the machine is back together. I never thought about just doing an entire rebuild, but I unfortunately don't have time to do rebuild work myself, nor experience... Wouldn't labour make a rebuild more expensive than a swap?

    Ill check the battery first and let you know if that cures it, thanks!

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by usrockband View Post
    Thanks for the help guys, I know that was alot to swallow haha.

    Quote Originally Posted by padge View Post
    A top end rebuild wouldn't include pistons and machine work on the block would it? I'm confused
    I come from dirtbike engines and assumed the top end was everything down until the crank... Correct me if I'm wrong though please!

    Yea for now we've decided to go the route of throwing a new block in there... So the machine is back together. I never thought about just doing an entire rebuild, but I unfortunately don't have time to do rebuild work myself, nor experience... Wouldn't labour make a rebuild more expensive than a swap?

    Ill check the battery first and let you know if that cures it, thanks!
    I come from hot rods lol. The bottom end would be block and rotating assembly. Top end would be heads up. But hey it's no big deal. Hope u get it fixed! I'd definitely do it right the first time and save some headache

  8. #8
    Alright a little update:

    So we tried charging the battery and unfortunately figured out that wasn't the problem. I'm having a hard time figuring out if its an electronic problem or not. We put it in the water today for the first time since September 2012 and the thing cranked over and started right up after about 2 turnovers (no hesitation whatsoever) but ran in limp mode (went no faster than 30mph). Still have flashing "maint" and the red light with it. Taking it in to a different dealer to get plugged in. Thinking its most likely a sensor gone bad? Everything else seems to be fine...

    Thanks for the tips so far!

  9. #9
    Another update: problem found;

    Turns out the temperature sensor failed. So we grabbed a new one, but I have no clue how to do this. Is it fairly simple on a DI or should I get someone else to? Any tips?

    Thanks

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