Thread: Msx 150 temp light.
06-03-2013, 10:00 PM #1
Msx 150 temp light.
Hello, would first like to say this is a great site and have been reading for awhile, even before I bought my latest toy. It is a 2004 MSX 150 with 22 hrs. I bought it and figured it would need some work. It starts and runs good other than battery light but haven't investigated yet.
I am trying to figure out my overheat problem. I can run it for about 5-10mins and then light comes on and goes in limp mode.
-I have checked screen in tail pipe and seems clear and pours water when on garden hose hook-up.
-As other posts say to check exhaust and see how hot it actually is....I can put hand on it and dosnt "sizzle" water droplets.
-coolant dosnt seem hot but saying that I can't see the return flow out of small line at top of tank. Could this be due to thermostat not opening yet? Or is it for sure pump/gear problem? Or clog?
-I have tried to find the exhaust sensor to disconnect to see if sensor bad and I disconnected a single blue wire. There was no difference. I then noticed another single blue wire in conduit that is disconnected(pic attached) so I need to figure out where that goes.
-the lake temp is below 60F and weather is cool.
I do have a service manual and will look for wire diagram but lots of guys here are smarter than the manual so thought I would ask.
Thanks in advance.
06-03-2013, 10:40 PM #2
Welcome to Green Hulk!
22 hours, huh? Nice... but sorta sad in a way... these Weber engined skis just don't get much play time... before they usually break.
That blue w/red stripe wire is for the exhaust temp switch there on the rear side of the exhaust manifold. When disconnected... or broken in your case... as long as that wire doesn't ground, the ECU will never "see" that temp switch and therefore not trigger any overheat warnings. So... if it was disconnected/broken when you got the overheat lamp... then it's the coolant rail temp sensor... and that's not good.
Everything your describing sounds like a bad plastic waterpump drive gear... and thus your waterpump isn't working right if at all. Cause the fresh water your piping in via the hose is what's keeping the exhaust warm to the touch (and not sizzling)... but the coolant isn't circulating and after a few minutes... it's triggering overheat.
You should be seeing a stream of coolant pour into the coolant jug from the small hose at the top... as it's pumping and circulating...even with the t-stat still closed... since the hose comes off behind the t-stat. If you don't... it's either too low... or not pumping. And the system is pretty self priming... ie the air works out pretty easily as it runs to the highest point... which is the coolant jug.
I hope I'm wrong... but don't think I am. Be careful overheating the engine. My first engine overheated due to a broken plastic waterpump drive gear and got hot enough to warp the block... which leads to bad compression. I'm also sorry to say that to replace the plastic waterpump drive gear... you have to remove the entire engine and disassemble the front to get to tall the gears behind the flywheel/mag and pull the counter-shaft sprocket (pita).
Where are you located?
06-04-2013, 06:18 AM #3
Thanks, was thinking that may be the problem. Will do a bit more checking before I pull engine but guess it will have to happen. I'm located in Manitoba, Canada. It will be a week before I get a chance to work on it again so lots of time to read.
I did see the back two steel lines coming out of jet pump blocked with dried sand so was hoping that may have lead to the overheat but cleaned and no luck.
Last edited by K447; 06-04-2013 at 08:02 AM.
06-04-2013, 10:13 AM #4
Those tubes are the bilge siphons... which suck water out of the hull... since we have no bilge pump... but are not part of engine cooling.
Right above where those tube stick through in the pump nozzle... stick you hand in there and find the postage-stamp sized plastic screen that covers the water pickup port and make sure it's clear. That is freshwater pickup...
Be sure to do a compression check before you pull the engine. If you also had compression problems... which could be nicasil plating failure or overheated block warpage... it'd be good to know and decide if you wanted to dump a lot of money into the project before you go to the trouble of pulling it.
06-04-2013, 10:23 AM #5
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
If those tubes were plugged up by little creatures, make sure they didn't also plug up the main water exit fitting on the hull or the small water exit just inside the exhaust hull outlet (this is present on MSX 140, not sure about the other MSX models).
Last edited by K447; 06-04-2013 at 04:53 PM.
06-04-2013, 03:13 PM #6
Ok will do. Thanks guys. Also read that the old antifreeze can gum up...any chance that the small return tube could be blocked? Actually dobut it because it does get the temp light. Will investigate more in a week and bring it home to the garage.
06-05-2013, 08:50 PM #7
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Stamford CT
22 hours in 9 years, wow!! I thought I didn't ride much... Anyway, I would like to add two quick and optimistic ideas. First, have you tried running the ski with the coolant reserve cap off? There could be air trapped somewhere in the engine that is slowing flow. 5-10 minutes of run time before overheat suggests to me that some coolant is moving. Second long shot, but possible is a faulty coolant temp sensor. I have not heard of or seen one that failed, but i'm sure some one has.
06-06-2013, 08:51 AM #8
06-06-2013, 08:57 AM #9
- Join Date
- Apr 2010
- Stamford CT
06-06-2013, 09:11 AM #10
Okay, had me worried there was something else besides that I should be checking.
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