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  1. #1
    Redrum's Avatar
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    Angry MSX 150 Driveshaft Removal

    I got the tool, but apparently I don't have the talent.

    I have searched this forum, and I have searched on google. I have seen Pirate's post on how he did it, and a few other's posts, but I cannot seem to get a clear idea of how to break this driveshaft loose of the coupler. I am trying to use a socket wrench fitted with an extension attached to the removal tool. I have a strap wrench wrapped around the coupler and pushing against the metal exhaust manifold off the turbocharger (that should be resilient enough right?). I put all my weight and strength into it (am I weak?) and she would not break loose. The strap wrench is holding the coupler steady really well, but the shaft is not budging free. I see Pirate used a torch, but would I apply heat to the shaft or to the coupler? I am assuming he was trying to expand the coupler when he did it. My coupler on the PTO side actually has a coat of black paint on it so I would probably be setting that on fire if I did it that way.

    If any of you have tips on how to break this thing free I would sure appreciate it. My end goal is replacing the through-hull bearing. I have the oil tank pulled so make room for the strap wrench.

    Thanks!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    You need rigid rotational support on the spider coupler, not resilient. That coupler is on there with huge tightening torque, so it is going to take huge torque to get it to break free.

    I used a breaker bar/pipe handle extension on my own MSX and it still took real grunt to break it free. When it does let go, don't hurt yourself.

    Heating the coupler around the collar where it threads onto the drive shaft can help, as heat will expand the coupler. The idea is to heat it up rapidly so the coupler expands faster than the drive shaft. I hate using heavy heat inside the hull, so I did it all 'cold'.

    Nothing less than a 1/2" drive tool, and heavier duty would be better.

    If you have an impact wrench that should crack it free. Going to need a decent amount of power on the impact tool.

  3. #3
    Redrum's Avatar
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    Thanks for the tips K447.

    I need the 1/2" extension then and a breaker bar. I don't want to use heat unless I have to. I saw the guy who used an impact wrench also used Pb Blaster to get his loose. Would that help at all?

    Thanks

  4. #4
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    Yeah... those couplers are on freakin tight. I've taken off two of them from the PTO balance plate (opposite of the one your working on). It takes a lot of torque... and heat works very well.

    Like K447 said... heat the coupler around the threads... not the drive shaft... and penetrating oil. Be careful heating inside the hull... I'd put down some heat barriers to make sure I didn't accidentally pass the torch flame over a hose or seal or something. You want your strap wrench to hold tight and solid. If it "gives" any while torquing... you lose a lot of torque your applying. Then get on it with a big cheater bar/pipe over your breaker-bar.

    Last night I was pulling the PTO coupler off the crank end of my 1200. You should have seen the Rube-Goldberg-ish method I rigged up to get it off. I'll only say it involved a long 2x8 board, 2 big C-clamps, propane torch, wd-40, a jack stand, a large pipe wrench, and a huge heavy digging wedge. I sorta enjoy having to solve "issues" like that... figuring out how to use what I got to get'er done.

    Cheers!

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redrum View Post
    Thanks for the tips K447.

    I need the 1/2" extension then and a breaker bar. I don't want to use heat unless I have to. I saw the guy who used an impact wrench also used Pb Blaster to get his loose. Would that help at all?

    Thanks
    PB Blaster and similar penetrating products can help, of course. The core issue is being able to apply huge loosening torque while holding the spider firmly immobile.

    And not breaking anything

  6. #6
    Redrum's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    And not breaking anything
    I hope you are implying that to both the ski and myself.

  7. #7

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    I just took mine off. You will not get it w/o a cheater bar. I used 1/2" drive with all the extensions I could find. Then a cheater bar on the 1/2 rachet. Also heated the coupler. Burned the seal on the carrier bearing, but that is getting changed.

  8. #8
    Redrum's Avatar
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    ARG! Do I need to put it back in this tight when I am done?

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redrum View Post
    ARG! Do I need to put it back in this tight when I am done?
    There is a torque spec for assembling it, but the engine power will really tighten it up when you are running at full throttle

    This is one of those times when your normal tools all look 'wimpy' and you need something with more heft.

  10. #10
    Redrum's Avatar
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    SHE BROKE LOOSE!!! The strap rench was made from rubber so it actually broke. I had to buy a chain wrench to hold it tight enough. Then I had a 4 foot hollow steel tube on the end of my ratchet and it finally came out. Once I got it loose though, it actually unthreaded the rest of the way really smoothly. Drive shaft slid right out. For the record, my through-hull bearing seals were as such. The single one on the inside had the spring facing the inside, and the two on the outside (PTO side) had their springs facing eachother (the outer seal's spring facing away from the PTO). Pics are coming as I need your opinions.

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