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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Jacksonville, FL

    Part1: Is repairing plastic Seadoo jet pump possible? In my opinion, yes.

    Hey fellow PWC enthusiasts!
    New to the forum, but long time user of the information here.

    First off, many thanks to those who have posted about engine repair/rebuilding, carb tuning and the like. It has helped me tremendously in getting my 2 addictions back up and running on my own, as well as saved me infinite $$ **

    Now on to returning some of the favors I have found here by making some of my own (hopefully helpful) posts...

    This is my first post of a few that I plan on doing, (wordy as it may be - Sorry for the long read) documenting my struggle with these skis through their transformation with rebuilt top ends, new fuel lines, custom milled silicone motor mounts (for surf jumping) and brand new, totally custom silver/candy apple/candy tangerine metalflake paint jobs... among a bunch of other things I did on a budget with great results.

    So... as the title states, having looked around various forums and on here, I see that others have been plagued with the same problem I discovered after purchasing my Seadoo XP 951 a few years ago... the previous owner ran over something big, (among a host of other crap he did/didn't do) which got sucked into the intake at a high RPMs and fubarred the plastic jet pump veins.(see right pic)

    I ran it like this for a season or two, replacing the wear ring with a stainless steel one, thinking that might help pump power, which compared to the old plastic ring that had 2-3" holes worn in it, yeah it helped. Also rebuilt the pump with new bearings/seals. But I could tell that things were still "off", even though once I got the dual carbs tuned, top end rebuilt with 140+/- compression, I was hitting 6600-6800RPM @ 60-61mph on smartphone gps.

    Like others, I tried various methods to repair this with epoxy putties and epoxy with fiberglass matt chopped up in it for added strength and found, just as they did, that the enormous pressure just crushes whatever you try to use and tosses it out the nozzle like sand. I even went so far as to take a dremel with pin-sized drill bit and drill slightly into the veins and place SS brad nails as "ribs" for extra strength.


    Soooooo... I was faced with the dilemna of paying $200+ (plus shipping) for a used 155mm pump on eBay or elsewhere, many of which had similar damage to the veins, so that didn't make sense.

    While the older style brass pump seemed the right answer, as I read on many forums that they are more durable and would fit my 951, there's better performance from the newer plastic pumps and so I made the decision to stick with plastic. I assume the performance gain is because the the "cupped" design of these veins, versus the straight blades I saw on the brass props. That little "hook" in the blade probably does a much better job of grabbing the water and straightening it as it shoots out the back. But that's a discussion I am sure has been discussed at length elsewhere.
    Not to mention that was $200 I could spend on a solas 15/20 prop to make it jump out of the hole!

    Ok.. so here's where the "MacGyver" style tinkerer comes out in me. I knew that nothing I used from a chemical standpoint would ever bond strong enough to where the plastic veins used to be to resist the pressure of the water in the pump. I also don't have a friend with a CNC milling machine that could design/mill me an aluminum pump, and I don't have Seadoos original plastic injection mold laying around for the pump.

    So in my attempts to repair some other plastic pieces on the skis, I had gone to my local Harbor Freight and purchase their "plastic welder", which is basically a heat gun in stick format with different nozzles to direct the heat where needed.

    This thing was a P.O.S.

    I used it one time to try it out on some scrap plastic, came back a day later to use it and it didn't heat up. By the ratings on the their site, this was common, so ALWAYS check product ratings.

    Well so then while I was returning that, I saw that they had a "5-In-1 Hobby Woodburner" on sale for $9 which came with various tips, one of which was a nubbed blade style. While not a high wattage item, and they do have an 80 watt version, I thought it might do just the trick to melt the plastic welding ABS sticks I bought.

    Although a slow process, I had great success with this repairing my Seadoo GTI seat plastic where it had cracked and broken into many pieces along the staple line on the backside. (Will put this in another post for those interested in saving $250+ clams) After repairing the plastic, I was able to press with two thumbs and flex the plastic without it snapping/breaking again.

    So this got me to thinking about the plastic on the jet pump. I was worried it was some obscure kind of composite that wouldn't even melt, but after pulling it off my ski and looking, I could see the mold lines, etc. that looked alot like ABS parts I have fixed on vehicles/motorcycles. So I tested with the iron, and it was definitely meltable. SCORE!

    So my thought was "why not"? I mean, what's the worst that could happen? These veins are behind the impeller, and if they broke again, they would just pass through the nozzle like refried beans on a Saturday morning after an AYCE spicy taco night. Okay, Okay, so maybe that's "not" the worst that could happen

    Being as this was a long posting, I broke it up... see part 2 HERE...
    Last edited by MacAddict; 06-06-2013 at 10:34 AM. Reason: Breaking to 2 posts to make less of a read...

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