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  1. #1

    Multi Function Display Testing/Repair -stx-12f & 15f

    Like many others- I've had some MFD issues and over the winter, acquired a dead display to play with. I have come up with a way to cut the daiplay open such that it can be resealed and re-mounted using the normal bolts without fear of the glue joint breaking. I'm trying to fashion up a test fixture to provide electrical stimulous to test the display before and after repair.

    I've hit a snag though... in the service manual, the test signals are given for- battery voltage- RPM- Speed - and fuel level- BUT not other data is given...yet the display supposedly shows "oil pressure, water temperature and ECU trouble alerts". None of the parameters are given as to how the display actually "recieves" this data. There is no direct connection to the oil pressure sensor, or water temp sensor acording to the wire diagrams. There is 1 "Diagnostic" line to the ECU but the no information is provided for it. I presume this would have to be a communication line if it can relay selective data (water/oil/trouble signals)... but to use it, i would need to know the protocol.

    Does anyone have any idea what the protocol is or if the oil and water temp warnings don't work on our skis?

  2. #2
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    No I came to the same issue, you could hook up the display and simulate the various failures, oil pressure, oil temp, ect and measure the signal on the diag line with an o scope.


  3. #3
    just a follow-up. While I haven't figured out the communications line, i was able to repair my display- I no longer have a battery voltage warning, My tach works perfectly as does the speed display.

    If anyone has dead displays, I'd be interested in purchasing them to see if there any any similarities in the failure modes.

  4. #4
    trucky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Boone Lake, TN

    I've got a new display arriving today and I plan to swap it with the dead one this weekend, weather permitting. If you pay the shipping the dead one is yours to do your post mortem.

    If you have any tips on the swap process I'd love to hear them. Tools required, things to watch for etc. My ski is over an hour away at my place on the lake and I'll have to take my tools with me. I have a trailer there to pull it out with but I don't trust that trailer to make any long road trips. I use it only to launch/retrieve/winter. I know there was a write-up on here a while back on how to do the job but I can't for the life of me find it any more. I do know to seal up the rear grommet with some good 3M waterproof sealer. I've got some quick cure 4200 and plan to use that.

  5. #5

    sorry I didn't see your post and responded to your other one. For sure I'm interested in yours and will pay for shipping. I'll PM you.

  6. #6

    here's how I removed my display on my STx15f (if memory serves). If anyone has any suggestions or corrections, please feel free to chime in. Keep in mind the stx15 is a little different than the stx12 because at least one mirror must be removed on the 15 - I don't think you need to on the 12. Also- this isn't the factory proceedure.. its a condensed version as I got tired of removing the handle bars. I've had my display in and out many times and found a few shortcuts. I use a towel to protect the body work as I tilted stuff to gain access to some things.

    Prep: - open front storage cover- remove right mirror (stx15 only)- disconnect wire harness(es) going to diplay (under hood), cut any wire ties holding the harness to the hull.

    1) Remove reverse lever (remove set screw holding nut cap in place, remove cap, remove main nut, remove lever)
    2) Remove handle bar pad (4 phillips head screws - pad peals off- watch for warning buzzer and wires that rest in the pad)
    3) Remove top body work bolts (4- 10mm, I believe- 2 under handle bar- 2 inside front storage compartment)
    4) From left side of ski- tilt housing up to gain access to the wire loom sealing gland. Watch the reverse lever shaft as it must clear that first. Remove the wire loom sealing gland bolts and metal compression plate. Slide compression plate up the harness (away from the rubber gland) to give you room to work the wires. Un-seat the rubber gland, and pull display wires from thier respective seal holes in the rubber (through the slit) .
    5) Pull each display cable and connector up through the hulls seal hole into the space under the binnacle body work- start with the smallest connector first as the seal hole is pretty tight with all the other wires going through. Don't force anything and work from both over and under the hole to get the connector sneak by the remaining wires left in the hole. Remove each wire and connector from the sealing gland retainer plate as well.
    6) Once all wires are through everything and loose, unbolt the display retainer bracket from under the binnacle cover - 2 bolts (8 or 10 mm- can't remember). You have to feel around for the heads since you don't have great accesss (normally handle bars are removed giving better access). Once bolts are removed, display can be pulled out from the front while fishing the harness through the now loose display retainer bracket.

    Assemble in reverse- I used anti seize on all screws... you'll see why.
    Last edited by JAV; 07-11-2013 at 08:39 AM.

  7. #7
    trucky's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Boone Lake, TN
    Thanks Jav, I appreciate the info!

  8. #8

    STX12 Instrument Cluster

    I'm new to this, but trying to find info regarding my 2006 STX12 with a display that has gone out. The first time I used it this year the LED had a dead spot in the center of the screen, then it went out completely. A that point it went into Slo mode. I figured out how to get it back into regular mode, but after a couple weeks it again went back to Slo mode and now will not come out of that mode. I assume that I need a new instrument cluster, but does anyone know if there is a way to get it out of Slo mode in the meantime, or if looking for a used unit is worn my time. Would a used one work, or do I need to go new? $800 for a new one is a lot for an old ski. Thanks!

  9. #9
    wetspot jet ski's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
    Since we have this thread going.....
    I have someone how decided to jump start the 2003 STX-12F. They messed with before I told them I would look at it. Long story short, this thing is PIS***NG ME off! I had the MDF tested and it was bad so I bought a new one, installed it and nothing. They also fried the silinoid to(Replaced it), and still nothing. Nothing to the display.
    I noticed they used a test light to probe the wires inches away from a disconnect. I checked all the connection it see if the system was complete.
    ----> What am I missing? I have nothing when I hit the start button. Could the stator, CDI be fried too?

    I need some input please. Thanks Guys...

  10. #10
    Hepner- I don't know of a way to bypass or fake the machine out of slo mode.

    Wetspot- I highly doubt cdi or stator have anything to do with your symptoms. If the new display didn't light up, it's not getting power (or ground) Start at the battery and trace power and ground through the harness. Sounds like a simple power problem.

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