06-06-2013, 10:30 PM #1
2003 gpr top end rebuild questions
Guys, my 03 GP1300R needs a top end at ~70 hrs. Motor is all stock minus D plate. I do not have unlimited funds and I am very handy having rebuild several motors through my years playing with toys. First and foremost, I DON'T WANT TO GO 90+MPH OR BREAK ANYONE'S RECORDS! I WANT A RELIABLE AND SAFE BIKE, that is a notch or two above stock and will give me at least 3 New Jersey seasons of uninterrupted fun-maybe asking a little too much-but that is my plan. So I have some questions on how to go about this:
1- Right now cyl#1 is ~85psi, cyl#2 ~80psi and cyl#3~15psi question here is: do I get a cylinder head exchange from the ones available out there and from who (~$700 from SBT? Or do I buy the top end kit and have my machine shop guy-who did and excellent job on my XL1200-bore/hone to oversize my jugs for~$550 all? What is the deal with the nickasyl coating? Do I really need that? Or will I be good going old school bore/hone/oversize pistons?
2- Oil injection is going to be kicked out to the creek. Is there anything else I need to do with this as far as the fuel system being able to handle the premix? I know in carbureted engines this was no issue but this is my first EFI engine.
3- I would like to put a less restrictive than stock air cleaner, any recommendations? Should I keep the air box and put a filter or just go to individual riva flame arrestors/filters?
4- I will do my own version of free flow exhaust, last ski I had had a riva kit, my version will be as good, just cheaper!
5- Do I need wave-eater clips? I read somewhere that Yamaha had fixed this issue with the 03 PV models. Do I need to replace the clips or just clean/refurbish them if they look good?
6- Later, and depending on performance as is now, I plan on replacing stock impeller, stock intake grate and adding a tunnel reinforcement kit.
Any other reliability and safety improving mods are welcome!!.
I sure will be back with more questions during the process so bear with me please. IF THE ANSWERS TO THE ABOVE ARE TOO MUCH PLEASE HELP WITH #1 QUESTION AND I WILL LOOK UP THE REST!!
06-07-2013, 12:14 AM #2
- Join Date
- May 2013
- Charleston, SC
I just did my top end rebuild on an 04 GP1300R about 3 weeks ago and did a 2 tank breakin period and now she runs like day 1 from the dealer really can tell the difference had 155 hours when I did it now has like 166. I did the SBT exchange for 700 also bought the SBT lever links (1 per pv) so I don't half to worry about the PV pins falling out. Got 3 new plugs as well since I wanted to start fresh. I am not the best with engines but it was fairly straight forward. It just take time to get the exhaust and mount bolts out and remove all the bolts in the head , pv linkage and the jugs then the pistons but like I said it not hard just time consuming One thing I noticed is the cylinder exchange comes with all new gaskets for engine and exhaust but does not come with the power valve cover gasket($5 a piece SBT). Don't forget the red Loctite either, these things shake all day long and add heat you get loose bolts in the bottom of the hull. Keep an eye out on all of your seals for awhile to make sure everything sealed up nicely and no water or oil is coming out at any amount. I would get all the torque specs together cause you will need them when it comes time to put the top end togeather. I went with new type of oil as well legend zx-2sr. Everybody has there own but I sware by this stuff and with PV's its a must. I talked to SBT about the breakin plan for there top end and I was told to do one tank of gas varying throttle frequently but not past 50% and the second tank is the same but no more than 75% on the throttle and then on the third tank she is ready to ride No need to go to the dock and do the 30 min cool down thing or w.e. some people were saying for at least this application,yes I talked to several pros on here(the best to ask) and the stores we own have great people. I got a few tanks in now pre breakin and could not be happier and I am very picky with saying I got 100% what I was looking for. Last thing I meant to say is I would double check all your bolts real quick to make they are tight after the first day out or tank, some may work them selves slightly loose as they get back in working position nut after that you should be good to go. I don't know much about the other question you had so i will let the pros get that one but bored out sounds like fun. If I can help in any way let me know I just tried to throw out what I can think of rite now at 1am
06-07-2013, 09:38 PM #3
UPDATE: just disassembled the engine I thought I was only doing a top end job to. Well, as is always the case, I also need a crankshaft! So I will do a complete rebuild now. My biggest question still stands: do I get an SBT engine or do I rebuild it my self? Remember, I want a bullet proof engine with some bolt ons, for a little added performance and rock solid reliability, not a rocket ship to break records. Please advise!!!
06-09-2013, 07:04 AM #4
06-09-2013, 06:24 PM #5
- Join Date
- Aug 2012
- St. Charles
from what I have read here on GH. Rebuild it yourself with OEM for a bullet proof ski and tons of knowledge of your bike.
06-10-2013, 08:30 AM #6
- Join Date
- Feb 2013
- Panama City Beach, FL
I wouldn't go the sbt route. They aren't well liked around here. I would get a good used oem crankshaft, have the cylinders honed and re-nicasyl coated, yes you have to and don't sleeve them, rebuild/rejet the carbs with aftermarket flame arrestors per oside bill's how to, and only use yamaha gaskets/parts. I just did this on my 2000 gpr and it is not hard. The hardest part is getting the block in and out of the ski.
06-10-2013, 12:46 PM #7
Thanks for advise guys. Where do I get cylinders re-coated with nicasyl? I also need all power valves, sbt not good for that either?
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