Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
  1. #1

    Replacing Virage FI fuel pump into tank-is there a trick to this???

    I just got the plastic part I needed to replace the one I broke (Mucho thanks to Tim Winslet!!!) So I unscrewed the big retainer ring, raised the whole pump assembly just enough to cut the pressure regulator hose and install the new piece being very careful (or so I thought). When trying to get the assembly to seat back down inside the tank it is not dropping down far enough to start the big retainer ring and it sounds as if something has come loose and dropped down into the tank. Any ideas what this could be or what to look for??? Is there a trick to getting the assembly back down without forcing it??? Any help would be much appreciated!!!


  2. #2
    Much thanks to KK47!!! After reviewing his post concerning working on the fuel pump/pressure regulator, I see mine had fallen down inside the pump. The pics said a 1000 words and helped immensely to reattache before reinstalling the whole thing and having to pull it all apart. That would suck!!!

    Now if the pump assemble will go back down in and I can get the big retaining nut to start...then the "only" hurdle will be reattaching those frikken straps and hoping it all works...crossed fingers!

  3. #3
    Sonofabwitch...got it back together and it won't start. Battery doesn't hold on long, but it says 13.8 before trying and it started before this whole frikken episode began.

    I did run longer fuel lines to the fitting at the top of the tank so I could attaché them while the tank was moved forward. Also, in trying to get the regulator out of the pump I turned the pump upside down and tapped on it several times to no avail, so I had to remove the 4 keeper screws on the side of the pump housing so the blue piece inside would come up and let me dig out the regulator...what a pita. The display cycles as it should when waiting 5 minutes to try to restart and the battery has now been charged and getting plenty of juice.

    I have grounded the brown wire before the connector with a circuit tester and the light came on but the pump did not. Also the red/white wire shows hot all the time as i suppose it should. The test light will show power when grounding out the brown wire before the connector, but when the connector is unplugged from the top of the tank the circuit stops although it still is good at the red/white wire. Is it possible to test the pump out of the tank? I'm wondering if it's in the connector or pump itself? Pump worked fine previous to this.
    Last edited by dbs1; 06-07-2013 at 09:42 PM.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,587
    +1
    1,272
    Not sure how you are using your test light on the Brown wire.

    When the harness is plugged into the fuel pump connector, the fuel pump power feed wire (forgotten the wire color at the moment) has battery voltage at all times (through a fuse). The Brown wire will also show battery voltage (coming through the pump motor itself).

    When the Brown wire is solidly grounded (via the EMM normal operation or by you imposing a ground connection) the pump motor now has battery voltage on the positive side, and is grounded on the other side, so it now runs.

    What do you mean the battery won't hold on for long?

  5. #5
    I was using the test light as a means to ground out the brown wire. When the alligator clip end was grounded to the engine I then would touch the other end to a needle as suggested that was inserted into the brown wire. The light would come on at this point, but the fuel pump would not run. When pulling the connector apart and touching the brown wire then the light would not come on. When doing this to the connector where the red/white wire came in it would light up when the connector was apart.

    The bike had been sitting for several weeks when I first tried starting it so the battery did not have sufficient charge, hence my term-"the battery would not hold on". I charged it for several hours and the bike would crank for quite some time so I don't believe the battery voltage is now an issue as it reads 13.8 and according to the bikes display does not drop below 11.8 while cranking. Does that explain things?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,587
    +1
    1,272
    Quote Originally Posted by dbs1 View Post
    I was using the test light as a means to ground out the brown wire. ...
    The test light does not 'ground' the contact you touch it to. It merely bleeds some voltage to light itself up. This is not nearly enough to power up the fuel pump. The fuel pump needs a solid zero ohm connection to ground to run properly.

    Grounding the Brown wire means using another wire, which has one end firmly connected to the engine case, and the other end touching the 'Brown contact' inside the fuel pump connector. I use a thin sewing pin or needle to slide down beside the Brown wire into the connector, then touch my grounding wire to the pin.

  7. #7
    Just spoke with my mechanic friend whose shop does my car repair and he said the same thing as far as the test light not having enough juice to ground the brown wire. I'll get a seperate wire and try it to the hat pin I'm using. Right now I'm going to go meet the shop guy around noon if I can't figure this out...I know when I've reached my knowledge limit though I don't mind giving it a go some more.

    If I get the pump to turn on but the ski still won't start up what should I be looking at next? As stated previously, prior to breaking the plastic fitting, changing out the Ngk plugs (used the spec'd plug) and new fuel lines and charging the battery, the bike started fine after sitting all winter. Ideas?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,587
    +1
    1,272
    Quote Originally Posted by dbs1 View Post
    Just spoke with my mechanic friend whose shop does my car repair and he said the same thing as far as the test light not having enough juice to ground the brown wire. I'll get a seperate wire and try it to the hat pin I'm using. Right now I'm going to go meet the shop guy around noon if I can't figure this out...I know when I've reached my knowledge limit though I don't mind giving it a go some more.

    If I get the pump to turn on but the ski still won't start up what should I be looking at next? As stated previously, prior to breaking the plastic fitting, changing out the Ngk plugs (used the spec'd plug) and new fuel lines and charging the battery, the bike started fine after sitting all winter. Ideas?
    If the pump runs, check the fuel pressure at the schrader valve tee. Should be around 23 PSI, give or take.

    You should be able to hear the pump running and see the fuel hoses flex slightly as they pressurize.

    Then clamp the fuel return hose flat somewhere between that tee and the fuel tank. Pressure should rise to around 30 PSI.
    Last edited by K447; 06-08-2013 at 02:55 PM.

  9. #9
    And if the pump does NOT work??? I've had everything back together once already and I could not hear the pump over the noise of cranking the engine, but when placing my hand on top of the electrical connection at the tank I could not feel the pump running. It seems odd the pump would stop working when it was fine previous to all this and all connections seem to be undamaged.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,587
    +1
    1,272
    If the fuel pump simply does not run when Brown connection at the pump connector is grounded then;

    • Pump does not have proper 12 volt power on the feed wire. Bad fuse, corroded or bad connection, bad wire
    • Pump connector connection to ground is not good (enough)
    • Internally the actual fuel pump motor is bad or has a bad wire connection

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Virage TXi fuel pump replacement part
    By 02Silverb in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 05-04-2016, 09:04 PM
  2. 2016 seadoo's is there any truth to this article
    By quiddo15 in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 23
    Last Post: 03-08-2015, 03:12 AM
  3. Is there a trick to adjust low setting on carb, while mounted?
    By jasonmd13 in forum Polaris Tech Tips and Info
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 05-09-2013, 08:38 PM
  4. Is there a trick to switch the speedo to mph?
    By K-Dubb in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (2-stroke)
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 08-08-2011, 06:44 PM
  5. is there a trick to getting a prop off??
    By MR MAC in forum Yamaha PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 06-02-2010, 03:40 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •