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Thread: Battery Drain

  1. #1

    Battery Drain

    I have Polaris SL900 that drains the battery overnight. We just had it to the shop and they said that the starter was stuck and it need a new battery. We thought that they repaired the problem but after buying a new battery and installing this morning the battery was dead by afternoon. When connecting the battery I noticed a spark when connecting the leads. I do not hear any noises from the pwc. Does anyone know where I should start looking?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    The LR voltage regulator module is the likely suspect. Located inside the electrical box, it has Yellow and Red/Purple wires, plus Black and Orange. Disconnect the Yellow and Red/Purple, see if the battery drain goes away.

    Note that with the LR module disconnected you wil not have battery charging not automatic bilge pump operation. If your wiring has been updated per Service Bulletin PWC-00-05 then you will have to hold the Bilge button down to run the engine (with LR disconnected).

    Obviously you need to recharge the battery using a proper AC powered battery charger prior to doing this test. Charge the battery with the battery negative cable disconnected.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the quick response.

    I'm in the process of charging my battery so I will not be able to test immediately. I am not sure if I know what the regulator looks like but it appears that there are two similar shaped boxes. One has grey, red/purple, tan and pink wires and the other has yellow, red/purple and orange. Is the correct one the latter? Can I disconnect from the circuit board? Thanks,

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    You want the second one yes. The one with the yellow, red/purple, and orange wires.

  5. #5
    After removing the Yellow and Red/Purple wires from the circuit board I still have a drain around 13 amps. Does anyone have any more suggestions? Thanks,

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    13 Amps is a sizable load. Where are you getting this reading from?

  7. #7
    After removing the Yellow and Red/Purple wires from LR voltage regulator module and connecting the positive lead from the pwc to the positive battery terminal and measuring the load between the battery negative terminal and negative lead to the pwc. Any ideas?

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coleman View Post
    After removing the Yellow and Red/Purple wires from the circuit board I still have a drain around 13 amps. Does anyone have any more suggestions? Thanks,
    Ohm check the stator, especially the charging coil. Disconnect battery, then disconnect stator Yellow and stator Red/Purple wires. Check resistance to engine ground. Should be infinite resistance.

  9. #9
    Is the wires coming from the stator to the CDI the red/purple, pink, black, tan, yellow and blue? If so, when I measure the resistance between the red/purple and engine I get between 1 to 100 depend which part of the engine I take the reading and yellow and engine I do not get a reading.

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Coleman View Post
    Is the wires coming from the stator to the CDI the red/purple, pink, black, tan, yellow and blue? If so, when I measure the resistance between the red/purple and engine I get between 1 to 100 depend which part of the engine I take the reading and yellow and engine I do not get a reading.
    How to test CDI, Magneto stator coils & Hall Effect sensors on domestic engines

    Your reference point for all engine case ohm and voltage readings is something without paint, like a cylinder head bolt or the grounding bolt on the engine case. It needs to be something that does not have corrosion.

    Stator wires must be unplugged from everything else when doing these checks.

    1 ohm between stator charging coil and engine ground is enough to cause a 13 Amp fault current.

    Be aware that some meters display infinite reststance (no continuity at all) with a display of 1____.

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