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  1. #1

    Unhappy STUPID mistake!!!

    Yup, not only am I a newbie, I am an freaking idiot! Now, I am asking if anyone here at GH can walk me through a fix?

    So, I have a 1997 Polaris Hurricane. BEAUTIFUL machine. New Engine, New pump, custom paint and upholstery. I love it, and it loves to beat on me!

    Here's the problem....
    After setting all winter long, I went out yesterday, dewinterized it, and after putting a charge on the battery (stupid mistake #1...I didn't disconect the battery when I put it away) within about 4 SLOW revolutions of the engine, the engine started right up as it always does.
    I shut it off and thought, "you know I should probably have the battery tested" (see "stupid mistake #1).

    Today I took the battery to the shop and put it on the tester and, as suspected, it only had 78 cca after a full charge. Yup, it's shot. So, in my ever brilliant (bigger is better) mentality, I decided to upgrade to a slightly larger battery with about 250 cca's. "Excellent forsight" I'm thinking, since I often ride solo, and might have to do a little rural lakeside repair here in bfe Montana. You know...., better safe than sorry.

    Any way, back to the REALLY STUPID part....So, after trickle charging the new battery all day, until the fancy smancy charger said it was full, I proceeded to "expertly" install the new battery and then push the little button, which in the past had always meant the beloved smell of Yama-lube type R in the air (no haters

    However, this time the starter just energized and sounded like it wasn't engaging the bendix.

    So, being the great mechanic that I am, I gently tapped on the starter and tried some more. 4 tries, 5 tries, 6 tries.....NOTHING!

    After nearly leaving a bald spot on my head from all the scratching I looked at the instrument panel and noticed there was no display. What in the world??

    Well, in short, some dumb@$$ (namely me) in his haste (and a little frustration trying to get the tiny screws stated) I must have got the battery turned around and hooked the battery up backwards!!! I KNOW !!! IDIOT!!!
    I hooked it back up correctly and it cranks fine (go figure...) and the instrument cluster works again.
    Now I have no spark. So,what did I fry, what is the solution, and how much of my life will it cost me to fix (please be gentle with the


  2. #2
    showmepro1200's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Jefferson City MO (Ride at Lake of the Ozarks)
    Check the wiring harness and in the electrical box for a fuse. Hope to hell you find one blown, replace it and all's well. If that doesn't work, things might get interesting, like the CDI blown, or something in the stator section fried..... good luck.

    I'm not a Polaris expert though (been a while since I had my Pro), i'm sure the more knowledgeable guys will come in and give more advice than me.

    OH and I just remembered from old days - I think one of my Polaris machines had a reset button on the outside of the electrical box - does yours have one??

  3. #3
    First, THANK YOU!

    The wiring harness looks good still (it was the first thing I looked at actually). I was REALLY hoping someone might say there is a fuse (just in case of people like me)! I will check for the reset also.

    I have been lurking around the site for a year or more (since I bought the Cane) and have seen the domestic ignition discussions, as well as the dreaded lack of availability issues. ARRGH! I am prayerful that you are right. My wife says "the Lord giveth and the Lord taketh away". I wish I could share her faith right!
    It SUCKS because nearly everything on the cane has been replaced and I absolutely love riding it, but there is no way I can afford to throw 800 bucks at it if the box is toast.

    Any one else have any other ideas to narrow down the problem?

  4. #4
    Just went out and looked and there was a reset. Tried it, and still no spark. I have no knowledge about the elec. box and how it comes apart. This is my first PWC. If there are any pitfalls I should know about before I tear into it (you know...disconnect the battery...J/K), feel free to chime in. Or a link to the ins and outs of it???

    Thanks again,

  5. #5
    found this... "How to test CDI, Magneto stator coils & Hall Effect sensors on domestic engines"
    will read tonight!

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Tip: The standard size battery is plenty for these engines, IF that battery is a good quality battery.

    The recommended (by me) battery type for these watercraft is a factory sealed AGM battery such as the Deka ETX16L. Very strong, long life, will not leak, no acid to mess with.

    Reversed battery may have fried any or all of the following;
    LR voltage regulator module
    Magneto stator
    CDI ignition module
    Various wires inside the electrical box, or to the stator.

    Do the diagnostics for the stator. Disconnect the LR module if you suspect it.

    Report back with what you find out.

  7. #7
    The battery that was in it was a small motorcycle battery the guy before me had put in. I don't know the numbers but after the reading I had done on here about weak batteries causing no start conditions, I didn't want to chance it, and thought I'd...well you know. Anyway, am I correct that the Lr module is indeed the voltage regulator and that it is located behind the flywheel? I haven't found a thread yet to show me how to test it. Can I test it without tearing things apart? Thank you for the advise.
    Also, is there no fuses as mentioned earlier? I was going to open the box tomorrow and check for them....

    P.S. I have been reading your "signature link"...thank you for the great info, hopefully I will figure it out there

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Everything is tested from inside the electrical box. Disconnect battery negative (the one with the Black wire ) before opening up the electrical box. Make sure the box metal shell does not touch the battery posts, ever.

    The LR module is inside the electrical box. It is the smaller of the two modules. The bigger module is the actual CDI ignition.

  9. #9
    Perfect. I will get back to you tomorrow with the results. I did find the pics of the box internals, so we should be gtg...

  10. #10
    still checking...
    Last edited by dane59432; 06-12-2013 at 12:44 PM.

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