Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12
  1. #1
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    JERSEY SHORE
    Posts
    4,502
    +1
    619

    Fiberglass repair for on the Ultra 300x...

    Hello Gents..here was a project I like to share with you as I had damage from a tree falling on the ski from the hurricane Sandy that hit the northeast part of the country in Oct....after examining and accessing the damage , it seemed that the damage was cosmetic that the pump tunnel had no cracks or the bottom of the hull was fine...but there was 4-5 stress cracks anywhere from 4-10 ins. long and thats what I was concerned with as they can get worse as you ride and pound the waves..My original choice was to bring the ski to a marine body shop since the Ins. would pickup the cost but they were booked for months so after researching the fix decided to take on the project myself...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	sandykawa10.jpg 
Views:	160 
Size:	27.0 KB 
ID:	303620  


  2. #2
    Fat Man, Little Boat Region8Ultra250X's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Jersey
    Posts
    5,563
    +1
    169
    you raced the boat like that or was this a pre race project?

  3. #3
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    JERSEY SHORE
    Posts
    4,502
    +1
    619
    I started this project with the notion that I wasn't a professional and intended on doing a good to very good job not to expect perfection...Called Kawa in CA to get the type of material and paint color that the 300 was made of..the top above the rubrail where the damage was is SMC....a 2 part epoxy for marine purposes would work better for strength longevity that a popular polyester resin like Bondo on this SMC...but first cleaned out the wound by hand as pieces easily came off ...

    Here is the list of materials that would be needed for this project..

    1)dremel/60 grit bit

    2)2 part epoxy

    3)blue tape,duct tape

    5)trim sander/ 80/150/220 grits

    6)mixing paddle ,spreaders

    7)sand paper 400/600/1200/2000 grits

    eye protection/ breathing mask/latex gloves

    9)primer paint/ top coat (west marine)

    10)tack cloth
    12) aresol sprayer/paint thinner

    11) misc materials..
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	fg3.jpg 
Views:	146 
Size:	80.9 KB 
ID:	303622  
    Last edited by jetdave56; 06-13-2013 at 01:24 PM.

  4. #4
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    JERSEY SHORE
    Posts
    4,502
    +1
    619
    I bordered the damaged areas with duct tape just temporarily as I would start to "clean out" the impacted surface with the dremel and then get below the stress cracks then build back up...hand might slip now and then so didn't want to damage untouched areas so duct tape added more protection but switch over boarder area to blue painters tape once finished grinding down...

    Too be continued.....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	fggrinding2.jpg 
Views:	121 
Size:	66.9 KB 
ID:	303623  

  5. #5
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    JERSEY SHORE
    Posts
    4,502
    +1
    619
    Quote Originally Posted by Region8Ultra250X View Post
    you raced the boat like that or was this a pre race project?
    No...this was done in the dead of winter as I could only work outside on the ski...temps has an effect on curing on the epoxy so had to wait till temp was above 40* and then wait longer till she was hard enough for me to sand...

  6. #6
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    JERSEY SHORE
    Posts
    4,502
    +1
    619
    I researched a product called Progressive Epoxy Polymers...used on all wet/dry applications like top/bottom of fiberglass boats, cement cracks like on bottom of swimming pools..a 2 part epoxy that had to be mixed thoughly and applied at a somewhat warm temp as to speed up the curing process..so with the spreader filled the now deeply removed SMC material which I filled up going a little above the surface level that later will sand and contoured to the shape of the original ski's profile...

    Too be continued....
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CAM00140.jpg 
Views:	117 
Size:	58.1 KB 
ID:	303695   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CAM00143.jpg 
Views:	104 
Size:	61.2 KB 
ID:	303696  

  7. #7
    Seakid's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    East Texas
    Posts
    442
    +1
    9
    Looks good

  8. #8
    CJ River Rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Central NJ
    Posts
    546
    +1
    60
    Quote Originally Posted by Seakid View Post
    Looks good
    Look real good!

  9. #9
    "just sayin".. jetdave56's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    JERSEY SHORE
    Posts
    4,502
    +1
    619
    Now using a variable grits with the sander and taking off the excess epoxy decided now to make the epoxy silky smooth and blend with the shape of the damaged passenger foot rest did a 400/600 /1200/2000 hand sanding that used my hand to "feel" the eveness of the repair...this epoxy shrinked slightly so had to apply a second coat to areas that looked uneven as I tried to shape the area the same as the undamaged right side foot rest.

    now feeling confident the shape matches the otherside,put on a fast drying primer using a little paint thinner filling a aresol can...took the 1200/2000 grit paper and sanded primer silky smooth...

    Now the top coat...Kawasaki in CA gave me the paint code used with exclusive company U.S. paints with sold all the colors for the Kawa 2011 line...
    Unfortunately U.S. paint does not sell pints or qts so being a basic 'jet black" went with West Marine jet black...

    After 2 top coats with paint thinner felt it was the best I can make of this repair...replaced left passenger foot rest that was removed to repair the stress crack that ran under also replaced the left corner bumper guard that also had stress crack underneath..

    The 2 black paints do not match perfectly and there's visual evidence of where the damage starts and ends but feel confident the stress cracks are fortified and should be no problem in the future even if the cosmetic part is not A+..
    Cost for materials was around $225-250 but have a lot of epoxy left over..

    But with all bodywork ,with over time will the damaged area stay strong and be crack free?...will have to wait....


    Thanks for reading...
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	CAM00180.jpg 
Views:	121 
Size:	76.1 KB 
ID:	303915  
    Last edited by jetdave56; 06-17-2013 at 08:56 AM.

  10. #10
    xplayer2885's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    LI, NY
    Posts
    1,251
    +1
    43
    Why didn't you just go through your insurance?

Page 1 of 2 1 2 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Looking for a little info on the Ultra 300 X
    By Wiskey Tango Foxtrot in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 33
    Last Post: 04-19-2016, 02:23 AM
  2. 02 sensor on the Ultra 300X
    By miami heat in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 01-07-2014, 02:15 PM
  3. Can you adjust the mirrors on the ultra 300x?
    By John Arnaut in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 08-20-2013, 03:44 AM
  4. first hour on the ultra 300x!!!!
    By MONSTERMATT in forum Kawasaki PWC Performance (4-stroke)
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 06-09-2013, 10:11 PM
  5. Replies: 0
    Last Post: 06-19-2011, 10:02 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •