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  1. #1

    New Owner 96 polaris sl780 w/ questions???

    I am new to Green Hulk and to watercraft in general. I have recently been given a polaris sl780. Not knowing much about them and it being in running condition (meaning that it started and ran) I licensed it and hit the water for 2 days. Ran great and was a lot of fun till the end of the second day. I had finished riding for about an hr and was going back to the ramp and it just bogged down and would just putt at full throttle. I putted back to the dock and loaded up the ski. Out of the water it started up and sounded like it was running fine again. Next day I go down to the water and it is in a no start condition. It cranked and sounded like it wanted to start but never connected. Took ski back home and took it apart a bit. Saw smoke coming from wires going to the stator I assume. The black wire was melted. All the wires around it seem well though. I am not sure what to do at this point and could use advice. I am going to order a clymer manual for it but when googleing for answers this site is all that pops up with any good infoClick image for larger version. 

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ID:	303717. So while waiting for my manual to arrive HELP ME please?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Well, this IS the premier web resource for Polaris watercraft!

    The smoke most likely happened when you let the metal electrical box touch the battery posts. That typically burns up the black wire in the cable going to the stator and adjacent wires can also suffer.

    There should be a plastic cover over the battery which is intended to prevent the electrical box from shorting to the battery posts.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Start reading through my signature links. Lots to do and check on your new to you Polaris!

  4. #4
    Funny you mention it. It sounded like it was shorting across but I do have the plastic cover on the battery. What can i do about the burnt wire?
    I thought i read somewhere that the factory ground location was bad and that could also happen to the wire. I plan on moving the ground any how.

    is the service manual the same as a clymer manual? I tried to click the link for one in your sig link but it wont load.

  5. #5
    Should the wires going to the electrical box be cut and spliced like in the pic above? Seems that they would get wet and cause a problem?

  6. #6
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    The factory wires were a 1 piece harness. Sometimes people who do not take the time and effort to properly remove a harness simply cut and patch. Likely had a bat stator at some point.....

    The service manual is not the same as Clymer, and in fact has much more information in it. I use the Clymer so I have torque values handy. I use the service manual for the more in depth information, and I use GH for the real answers!

  7. #7
    Mine looked a lot more in one piece when the wrap was still around the wires but i cut it away to see what was burnt. Should I cut away the splices? If i cut them away should I solder them and shrinkwrap or run them into the box ? what should I do about the burnt part of the wire? Can I order a new harness or make one? perhaps just replace black wire to stator? i dont know just throwing ideas out.

  8. #8
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    You really should inspect the entire length of the harness. The stator harness is hard connected ie soldered to the stator itself, so cannot be ordered, unless you obtain a replacement harness. If you inspect the length of the harness, and replace the damaged wires, you may be able to salvage what is left. Be sure to use the correct type and gauge of wire. Soldered and shrink wrapped connections would be preferred over mechancial type connections.

    Once the wires have been replaced, you can check the impedance values at the stator to determine if it needs to be replaced or not. The wires do continue all the way into the front flywheel housing, and may be burnt all the way to the stator.

  9. #9
    It appears that I have a little work ahead of me. Will I need gaskets of some sort when I pull off the carbs and exhaust or anything else that may come off while trying to get at the stator? I have a multi meter but have not tested many things and will need some assistance in where the probes will be going for testing when that time comes.

    On a side note, Are the carb internals designed for ethanol or will that screw them up? Are there carb kits that are rated for ethanol? Also do I need to redo the gas line? From what I have read someone must have updated them already? but what is the life of the line when exposed to ethanol?

    Also can someone tell me how to set the forum to send me an email when I get replies to a thread?
    Last edited by ryanmiller247; 06-16-2013 at 09:49 AM.

  10. #10
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    At the top of the thread there is a drop down called thread tools. If you click on subscribe to thread, it will email you when someone posts.

    You will most likely need base gaskets for the carbs at a minimum. You will have to decide on the exhaust gaskets when you remove, but you may be able to just use some copper gasket spray and reuse as they are a little more robust material.

    Nothing that I know of to prevent ethanol from a carb internal product point of view. John Zigler of Watcon/Rock County Jet ski recommends (if I remember correctly) Startron Brand Ethanol treatment. He is a pretty reliable source when it comes to product recommendations. Not sure of the effects of Ethanol. Not sure if anyone has actually done a time lapse test of regular vs ethanol blend gasonline effects on fuel lines and or carb internals.

    I would go through and replace all the fuel lines. It is not a very expensive proposition, and will alleviate any concerns about dirty, blocked, failing lines.

    Let us know your questions when hooking up the meter... Plenty of help here!!!

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