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  1. #1

    Polaris Genesis 1200 1999 - Is This Worth Fixing??

    Hey guys i am new to the forum, but i have been reading threads vigorously for the past several week to try and DIY this project. But as is obvious I am now in the boat where i need more knowledge than i can passively acquire.

    I will get my pictures the next time i am able to get to the location where the PWC is stored.

    But here is what is going on:
    • I bought this PWC in "non-working" condition.
    • I took all saltwater related precautions eg. pump work around ect. Because it wasn't stated how it was used.
    • I bought a bran new battery (Obyssey625) because the PWC didn't come with one.
    • I hooked everything up and checked continuity through out the entire electrical system and followed several guides to avoid mistakes. But really the only things were that the main out from the Electric box was disconnected, as well as the communication port to the dash.
    • So everything is hooked up and properly, the first time i watched the magical user interface/display come on and i read "Please ride- Responsibly" i cockishly thought to myself ha-It works... I hit the starter(Start and stop in one) button after entering the unlock code.
    • I hear a loud single engine wide click as if the starter tried to turn components it needed to and was being halted. So i tried it again a few more times. I held it down for longer than i should once or twice I heard crackling, which i later found out was the boot cover for the positive terminal on the starter melting. So i though there was an electrical short. I checked Everything and all was fine.
    • One time i heard the starter possibly make two or three spins. And never again after that.
    • I then checked the cranking values and outs of the battery and made sure the proper voltage and amperage. resistance and all the good stuff was going to the right places, everything was.
    • I then tried the starter solenoid and same thing just a single loud click(and crackling if i hold the start for too long).
    • I took out the steering assembly as i assumed was instructed in a post to get to the impeller?
    • Click image for larger version. 

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    • Then i got to this and got confused. I seems it's set in absolute place to allow for dynamic control of thrust.
    • I started unscrewing the bolts around the black conicle assembly in the picture above and it seemed sealed so i became uneasy and stopped and re-bolted the allen screws.
    • Now i am thinking there is a bolt in the center to take it further apart.
    • I then proceeded to what i assume is ignorantly try to turn the assembly directly behind the blunt tipped black conicle item. It didn't move from now which i am assuming it is not supposed to.
    • I noticed what i thought could have been a missing rubber ware right around the impeller.
    • But then i thought after looking the impeller was behind this assembly in the picture above.
    • Name:  mKDD6DsdohD6eClC4XVPr4A.jpg
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    • I tried using a screw driver to try and turn the device that seem was the real impeller or "water pump"?
    • no luck. Then i heard of something called the bendix.
    • I took out the pipes and what im assuming is the water tank in this poor picture below.
    • Click image for larger version. 

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    • This gave me access to the drive shaft after i took off the protection cover.
    • And also let me check the physical connection for the positive cable going to the starter.
    • I was lost, and noticed the whole impeller assembly was held in by two or four bolts in the engine compartment, i considered taking them off but saw they were sealed as well which made me uneasy again so i stopped.
    • I then tried turning what i thought was the drive shaft, the red rectange in the hulk picture.
    • *it said i reached my image max.
    • And no luck as i expected, i also tried some random other pieces that seemed as if they were attached.
    So this is where i am at, i haven't checked the engine yet to see if the pistons were jammed up or something, but i also assumed when starting the ski starts in neutral which i am probably wrong.

    But i am guessing its either the starter or something jammed up.

    Sorry this is so obsessive i just wanted to try and give as much detail as possible. I check my email about 2 times a day and will respond as soon as i can to responses.

    Thanks guys, all the other posts i have read have been great! Everyone in the polaris sections seems to be amazingly nice and cool!

    Oh and if anyone could message me link to a repair manual for this jet ski i would be very happy. i couldn't even find one to purchase.

    And feel free to request any clarification i am more than awful at explaining.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by K447; 07-02-2013 at 09:18 PM.

  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada

    You are indeed confused on a few items, but we can get you moving in the right direction.

    See my signature links. Look in the Jet Pump section to learn how to remove the jet pump. There are videos showing how it comes out. Do NOT undo the nuts inside the hull, and do NOT undo the NUTS on the actual jet pump. Only undo the BOLTS that hold the jet pump stator in place.

    If you have burned up the starter motor, well, new starter motor would be needed.

    I expect that either the jet pump is seized up and not allowing the engine to crank, or the engine itself is seized internally. It is also possible the Bendix gear under the flywheel is bad or jammed.

    Start by removing the jet pump and drive shaft. If engine still does not crank (does not rotate) then proceed to remove the flywheel cover and inspect the Bendix gear. You may need to use an inspection mirror and flashlight.

    An alternative to using the starter motor to rotate the engine is to remove the coupler cover from the drive shaft at the rear of the engine. Under that plastic cover is the driveshaft coupler to the engine. Remove the spark plugs, then use your hand to turn the coupler. If the coupler cannot be turned even with strong hands, then something is seized.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply,
    Click image for larger version. 

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    If this is supposed to spin easily then i am guessing that something has seized because i tried moving it by hand.

    I'm guessing i should start by working on removing the pump and then try again.

  4. #4
    I am going to be getting to where the devices is today and i will give you updates if i run into problems

  5. #5
    So after taking apart a few things and looking closer at everything I found the base of one of the cylinders is cracked. I took a picture but my phone doesn't allow local access via the browser upload interface. But I will upload it as soon as I can. Basicalling the crack is localized to the base it protrudes from the screw slot part way up the cylinder less than an inch and about 3 inches long.

    Another wonderful thing I was starting to take it apart and when I took out the housing above the cylinder I noticed a ship ton of white residue which I'm guessing is salt water residue? And I did a full inspection of everything else so far.

    I still haven't taken off the jet to see if it has or hasn't seized but I was thinking this could possibly be all my problems. I still plan on checking the jet pump and impeller as soon as I get my hands on some kroil or something similar!! Let me know what you think and if it is worth it

  6. #6
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    Here is what is going on. Refer to my earlier comment! Thanks for the help guys.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Is that through-hull area cracked or damaged behind the rubber section?

    Through-hull bearing looks like it is not straight on the driveshaft, could be internally worn. Need new bushings and seals.

  8. #8
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Milwaukee WI
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Is that through-hull area cracked or damaged behind the rubber section?

    Through-hull bearing looks like it is not straight on the driveshaft, could be internally worn. Need new bushings and seals.
    That to me looks like a bad attempt to repair the through hull fitting. From my perspective, it looks like the whole fitting is crooked, not just the seal carrier.

  9. #9
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Milwaukee WI
    I would guess you are looking at a full engine rebuild. To crack that cylinder, I bet the motor was hydro locked. That means crank damage as well. Tear it all down and have a look.

  10. #10
    I hope thats not the case, but if it is i'm not doing to good. The crack is localized to the part of the cylinder you can see the crack in. But i cant account for anything on the inside.

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