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  1. #1

    New to GPR and a couple questions

    I just picked up a new-to-me 2001 GP1200R.
    The ski has a fresh motor rebuild and fresh carb rebuilds.
    I took it out for the first time since it was rebuilt following the break-in procedures recommended here (I lurked for a long time before registering).
    Fired up, ran great. Went through about a 1/3 tank. Went to go out a second time a few days later and it took a few seconds of cranking for it to fire. When it did fire, it idled rough for a few seconds and then settled down. Ran great again after that (ran another 1/3 of the tank). After another few days, it took a while of cranking to get it to fire again. As with last time, idled rough for a few seconds and then ran great.
    Is this normal? I did run 50:1 premix for the first tank (currently has the oil injection), so I'm not sure if this could have caused it? I'll be running my first tank of regular 93 the next time out.
    I also got the cat warning light last time (and I think the cat is still in there after 150 hours) so I'm going to order the D-Plate this week. Just wondering what else to look at while I'm in there to make sure this thing runs great for a long time to come.
    It's quite different than my '01 Virage TX that fires instantly and goes every time, but maybe it's just the nature of this ski.
    Last edited by Jeff G; 06-18-2013 at 12:10 PM.


  2. #2
    Mine always takes a bit to warm up. Also started quicker with a new battery. Maybe it's flooding a bit when it turns over too?

  3. #3

    Join Date
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    Many of these engines are hard to start cold. Are you pumping the throttle? That can help as these have an accelerator pump. Many people have added a primer kit to make it easier to start. I have had a couple that were hard to start, and several that were not. Never could figure out the difference between them, rebuilt carbs and pumps, still hard to start.

  4. #4
    Just to be safe, inspect the clamps on the coupler under the outer boot where the U pipe clamps to the stinger over by #1 plug. I have seen 2 clamp failures (2 different skis) where the inner clamp breaks allowing water to migrate back into the motor after you shut it down. When the motor is running, the exhaust gas pressure is higher than the cooling water pressure so you can get hot gas over into the cooling water side causing the temp alarm to go off. When you switch it off, cooling water could migrate back into the cylinder causing rough idle until burned off. It is a guess but those clamps are easy to inspect. Just loosen the 2 outer clamps and slide the boot forward towards the U pipe to check the clamps underneath. Sometimes the clamps get overtightened causing failure.

  5. #5
    SMLaker's Avatar
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    "I did run 40:1 premix for the first tank (currently has the oil injection)" Are you running a premix 40:1 AND Oil injection?

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by SMLaker View Post
    "I did run 40:1 premix for the first tank (currently has the oil injection)" Are you running a premix 40:1 AND Oil injection?
    That Is Correct. Break-In Procedure Says The First Tank Should Run A 50:1 pre-Mix With The Oil Injection So That's What I Followed.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by chevyrocks3 View Post
    Just to be safe, inspect the clamps on the coupler under the outer boot where the U pipe clamps to the stinger over by #1 plug. I have seen 2 clamp failures (2 different skis) where the inner clamp breaks allowing water to migrate back into the motor after you shut it down. When the motor is running, the exhaust gas pressure is higher than the cooling water pressure so you can get hot gas over into the cooling water side causing the temp alarm to go off. When you switch it off, cooling water could migrate back into the cylinder causing rough idle until burned off. It is a guess but those clamps are easy to inspect. Just loosen the 2 outer clamps and slide the boot forward towards the U pipe to check the clamps underneath. Sometimes the clamps get overtightened causing failure.
    I'll Check This First Thing Tonight, Thanks For The Advice!

  8. #8

    Join Date
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    The stock models have a choke and to a certain extent, the accellerator pump acts as a primer to help start a cold natured engine. If you have neither a primer or a choke, then it more than likely will be hard to crank and run poorly the first few seconds.

    If it starts easily after it warms up, then I would not expect any serious issues and would consider what you have "normal".

  9. #9
    zardoz's Avatar
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    Dec 2011
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    Northwest Ohio
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    I have a 2001 XLT 2100 which I have found to be "cold-natured" = somewhat difficult to start when cold. The solution given to me by my mechanic, which I have tested and found to be true, is to start the ski this way: 1. Momentarily push the "start" button, which activates the accelerator pump; 2. pull on the throttle 8 - 10 times without touching the "start" button' 3. THEN choke the engine and push the "start" button again. The ski should turn over and chug, and even though it may not start immediately it will most likely start with another pull on the throttle and push on the "start" button and a little more choke. This process made my life much easier, as it seems to always work with my 1200's, even after they sat for all winter.

    Sitting at the landing with a ski that won't start while everyone else is unloading their skis and taking off is very frustrating.

    Zardoz


    former sea doo owner, will never own one again

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by chevyrocks3 View Post
    Just to be safe, inspect the clamps on the coupler under the outer boot where the U pipe clamps to the stinger over by #1 plug. I have seen 2 clamp failures (2 different skis) where the inner clamp breaks allowing water to migrate back into the motor after you shut it down. When the motor is running, the exhaust gas pressure is higher than the cooling water pressure so you can get hot gas over into the cooling water side causing the temp alarm to go off. When you switch it off, cooling water could migrate back into the cylinder causing rough idle until burned off. It is a guess but those clamps are easy to inspect. Just loosen the 2 outer clamps and slide the boot forward towards the U pipe to check the clamps underneath. Sometimes the clamps get overtightened causing failure.
    Besides Broken Clamps (Both Mine Are Good), What Am I Looking For? How Tight Is Over Tight?

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