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  1. #1

    Oil block-off for 2003 Polaris Freedom?

    so, i don't think my oil pump is functioning. on my 2003 Polaris freedom.

    if i get an oil block off kit from home depot or auto zone or some other related store rather than buying one from the internet. would it work? i mean there couldn't be that much of a difference is there?

    also is the oil pump supplying oil to the crank case or is the crank case a stand alone system?
    Last edited by K447; 06-18-2013 at 11:06 AM.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Why do you think the oil injection pump is not working?

    Oil pump block off kit is specific to the Polaris engine, I doubt you will find one at a general hardware or automotive store.

  3. #3
    well i ran for about 5 hours the other day and there isn't any oil gone from the tank. but if i block it off does the pump supply oil to the crank case also there is only one line coming off of the pump to the carb, and no line going into the case. and attached at the front side of the flywheel. but i assume that the positioning is only for a geared shaft. and cant find anything about it in my manual.

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike6345 View Post
    well i ran for about 5 hours the other day and there isn't any oil gone from the tank.

    but if i block it off does the pump supply oil to the crank case also there is only one line coming off of the pump to the carb, and no line going into the case. and attached at the front side of the flywheel. but i assume that the positioning is only for a geared shaft. and cant find anything about it in my manual.
    Oil gets consumed rather slowly with the oil injection system.

    Roughly 1/100th of the rate you burn fuel, depending on how you ride. Continuous full throttle riding will pump oil faster, but even then perhaps 1/40th the fuel burn rate.

    So if you used 1/2 a tank of fuel (about 30 liters) then the oil consumption would be about 1/3 to 1/2 of a liter. The oil tank holds about 6 liters (going from memory) so the oil level would drop maybe 5-10%

    If the oil pump was genuinely not working and you ran the engine for five hours of riding around the engine would be in distress from lack of lubrication, and quite possible have seized up completely.

    The oil pump is driven directly by the end of the crank shaft that holds the flywheel. There is a slot on the shaft that the oil pump fits into.

    The oil tank has a hose with a special oil filter that feeds the oil pump. The oil pump then feeds the engine air intake at the carburetor(s). If you engine only has one carburetor you may only have one oil feed nipple.

    The oil then dribbles into the engine via the air intake and lubricates the crank case internals and the cylinder walls.

    The Polaris 700 engine is rather fuel efficient for a watercraft. The oil consumption is also rather easy on the wallet.

  5. #5
    the oil level didn't move at all though. i think i got lucky with the shaft not seizing just ground down the pumps shaft spline and re attached for the seal an made a tube block with the old tube and a screw with zip ties. just going to drain oil tank and mix in fuel. recommended mixture for break in that way is 32/1 then after that 40/1

  6. #6
    ThrottleOut's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    If the oil pump was genuinely not working and you ran the engine for five hours of riding around the engine would be in distress from lack of lubrication, and quite possible have seized up completely.
    I'd stress that point right there. Odds are the oil injection is properly functioning or the motor would have seized quite a while back.

    I'm not exactly sure what you're trying to describe for your block-off but it doesn't sound like a good idea to me. If you are dead-set on blocking it off spend the $20 on a kit and be done with it. Also, keep in mind that the gas that is in the lines, fuel/water separator and carb does not have any oil in it. So, if you just delete it without getting the gas/oil mix in there you will be running the motor with no lubrication until it works it's way through.

    Pre-mixing is an unnecessary hassle and causes you to burn through way more oil. If it were me, I would check to see if it does actually work or not before you do it. Here's how I would do it: Leave the oil tank and pump connected and unhook the oil line at the carb. Run this line into a jar or something so you can check flow. Then, take and unhook the cable for the pump variable ratio and allow it to run the pump wide open. In the event of a cable failure, the pump will automatically run at 40:1. Unbolt the pump from the front of the motor (IIRC it is 2 10mm bolts). Then, using a drill and a socket, spin the oil pump in reverse and watch the output (IIRC a 14MM impact socket worked best for me, just find one that fits around it decently). It doesn't pump a lot of oil but you should see it push oil out in pulses. I've used this method to re-prime oil lines when replacing them with good luck.

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