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  1. #1
    Red Devil's Avatar
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    Maintenance on the Trailer

    This is probably one of the most neglected things we think about when it comes to our beloved Sea Doo's. I just got through yanking the hubs off of my trailer after 2 1/2 years. Just never thought about it because the lake is so close. The only thing that made me think about it was the 1000 mile plus trip in April to Jet Draggin. Luckily, for now, the bearings and everything were good to go but I don't think I would have made it on the 2,000 mile round trip. There was plenty of water mixing with the grease and one of the bearings were pretty rusty. The grease inside was pretty nasty but still had some in it. Got everything repacked and put back together. Just something to think about when you have a little free time. Oh yeah, make sure you put on your oldest and grubiest work clothes when you do this. By the time you clean everything up and repack the bearings, you will be as dirtly and greasy as if you pulled the engine 10 times...


  2. #2
    cbrich's Avatar
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    Make sure you torque axle nut, I think it's like 30 ft.lbs.

    Another thing about grease make sure you use a high quality grease, I found some synethic marine trailer grease at Oriellys.

  3. #3
    Resident Jicky Jack Jeff C's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbrich View Post
    Make sure you torque axle nut, I think it's like 30 ft.lbs.

    Your kidding right?

    You should put the axle nut on and tighten it up until you almost have no play from side to side on the wheel. Tighten it up another half turn, and then back it off until you see that play again, and then back it off until the cotter pin slides in........

  4. #4
    Red Devil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff C View Post
    Your kidding right?

    You should put the axle nut on and tighten it up until you almost have no play from side to side on the wheel. Tighten it up another half turn, and then back it off until you see that play again, and then back it off until the cotter pin slides in........
    Jeff,

    I am thinking he is talking about the lug nuts for the wheels.... You torque that axle nut on like that and you'll have some worn out bearings....I put some antisieze on the threads and just wrenched them back on. I know they are tighter than 30 lbs...I had to just about stand on the bar to remove them.

  5. #5
    cbrich's Avatar
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    Actually no, by torque the nut you are preloading the bearings. I have torque 3,000 lb axle nuts to 25-30 lbs, it's been a while since I last did set and never had a problem with them plus they last a lot longer.

    I allows torque them down to 30 ft-lbs while spinning the wheel and back the nut off 1 complete turn and retorque the nut to 30 ft-lbs and back it off 1 turn, I do this several times before retorque them to 5-10 ft-lbs. By doing this allows the bearing to align and seat in the race.

    Read this article on Dexter Axles they recommend to torque the axle nut to 145-155 ft-lbs.

  6. #6
    Red Devil's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbrich View Post
    Actually no, by torque the nut you are preloading the bearings. I have torque 3,000 lb axle nuts to 25-30 lbs, it's been a while since I last did set and never had a problem with them plus they last a lot longer.

    I allows torque them down to 30 ft-lbs while spinning the wheel and back the nut off 1 complete turn and retorque the nut to 30 ft-lbs and back it off 1 turn, I do this several times before retorque them to 5-10 ft-lbs. By doing this allows the bearing to align and seat in the race.

    Read this article on Dexter Axles they recommend to torque the axle nut to 145-155 ft-lbs.
    Oh, I see now what you are talking about now, preloading. That makes total sense. Then I thought you you meant torque the bearing nut down to 30 pounds without backing it off.....This was the first time I have ever done a job like this so I'll take all of the advice I can get....

  7. #7
    also the 1/2 studs or bolts are 85ftlbs.

    I usually seat the bearings the same way when new, but when re-packing them you don`t want to compress them real tight. While spinning the wheel I just give them a good hand tighten and back off the castle nut to align cotter pin.
    I`ve seen some axle nuts with washers and some without, there is quite a dif between slots in the nut, either to tight or to loose. Have to use your judgement there...PR...

  8. #8
    Kaybat's Avatar
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    I went over my shorelandr this winter.....salt water kills 'em.....ALL my U clamps were rust solid(sawzall city!),why these things don't come with SS clamps,bolts,ect is beyond me

  9. #9
    Spike's Avatar
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    I treat the bearings just like the front wheel bearings on a rear wheel drive vehicle. This is the way I learned 30 years ago so things may have changed, but it still works for me. When I run them in I tighten gently with channel locks, back off, spin, re tighten while spinning until it feels snug (do this two or three times to get a good feel) then back off a little, maybe a 1/4 turn or less.
    Put a new pin in, the only thing different to me is for the cap I use bearring buddies.

    Did anyone try that Dexter site link? I had trouble with it.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Spike View Post
    I treat the bearings just like the front wheel bearings on a rear wheel drive vehicle. This is the way I learned 30 years ago so things may have changed, but it still works for me. When I run them in I tighten gently with channel locks, back off, spin, re tighten while spinning until it feels snug (do this two or three times to get a good feel) then back off a little, maybe a 1/4 turn or less.
    Put a new pin in, the only thing different to me is for the cap I use bearring buddies.

    Did anyone try that Dexter site link? I had trouble with it.
    That`s exactly how I do it!...PR...

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