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  1. #1
    2x 2004 Seadoo RXP. Milwaukee, Wisconsin. wisconsin_quat's Avatar
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    How bad does this damage look?

    Hey all... I had something rattling around in my engine and had to run it to get me back on shore... It died a couple times in the process. Pulled the motor and found bits of the plastic retainer that holds the supercharger bearings in bottom of the crankcase. Flywheel doesn't appear to have any damaged teeth. I'm getting 160-180psi of compression in all 3 cylinders. My oil pump gear looks mildly chewed up and the housing is partially scored. Where else should I look for damage and what should I be looking at replacing?
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  2. #2
    BlackHawk's Avatar
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    Not good at all....did you check the front one too?

  3. #3
    mikelytle1077's Avatar
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    definitely need a new rotor, ring and pump cover what does the oil filter look like? did any of the bearings make there way through the engine? i would split the cases and check your bearings if its already out of the ski. it doesnt take much to wipe a bearing and eventually spin it.


  4. #4
    2x 2004 Seadoo RXP. Milwaukee, Wisconsin. wisconsin_quat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikelytle1077 View Post
    definitely need a new rotor, ring and pump cover what does the oil filter look like? did any of the bearings make there way through the engine? i would split the cases and check your bearings if its already out of the ski. it doesnt take much to wipe a bearing and eventually spin it.
    The oil filter looks very clean. None of the bearings from the SC made their way out of the bearing race. The bearing closest to the motor (I assume inside bearing) is the one that failed. Shame - barely 80 hours on it. I should have had Jerry rebuild it earlier. I saw a little wear inside the SC engine hole from the SC to flywheel gear rubbing against the engine case because of the excessive play from the failed bearing. So I know there's maybe about a thumbnail worth of metal shavings inside the engine.

    I have a ton of experience on vehicle motors but south of 50 hours of experience on Seadoo engines. I see that there's a screen filter in the crankcase below the oil filter and another round screen filter in the oil pump area. How is this debris still getting through?? Is it really necessary to split the case?

  5. #5
    SLASHER's Avatar
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    Just flush the oil gallery out and change the rotor and rotor ring gear on both if needed ...

  6. #6
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    Nice Avatar Pic under the Hoan. Hopefully you couldn't smell the sewer plant there......

  7. #7
    mikelytle1077's Avatar
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    it looks like you have the engine out and pto off i personally would split the cases and and clean as much as you can. also do the 08 oiler setup and throw some arp or newer sytle flywheel bolts in there. both those upgrades would be under 100 bucks. what type of oil are you running and is the machine stock ?

  8. #8
    2x 2004 Seadoo RXP. Milwaukee, Wisconsin. wisconsin_quat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikelytle1077 View Post
    it looks like you have the engine out and pto off i personally would split the cases and and clean as much as you can. also do the 08 oiler setup and throw some arp or newer sytle flywheel bolts in there. both those upgrades would be under 100 bucks. what type of oil are you running and is the machine stock ?
    Stock Seadoo Oil, stock machine. I'm heading down to take a look at the rear oil pump right now. Would love to split the cases but I don't want to get in over my head- are any of the bolts that I take apart one time use bolts when I split the cases? Any gaskets that I'll need to replace?

  9. #9
    mikelytle1077's Avatar
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    None of the bottom case bolts are Torque to yield minus the connecting rod bolts the case only uses sealant to put back together. If the block is on a stand its really simple just need to flip it over head facing the ground. The bottom case has baffles any junk will get caught in the nooks and corners its your call if you can account for all the bearings from the sc. If the gear is still intact and didn't drop any needle bearings you should be okay. As far as oil I run mobile 1 4t it has a ton of zddp in it and its Jaso ma wet clutch approved

  10. #10
    DustMan's Avatar
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    My buddy just went through the same thing and it got both front and rear oil pumps. Back one u have to replace the whole end case. Bearings looked good but we have it off so were going to replace them anyways. Your pics look just like ours.You will have to replace rear case gasket if you split the block which I really recommend. Check the crank for nicks. If you can't fill them with your finger nail your good. Block has no gasket just silicone. +1 check and make sure all the needle bearings are accounted for in SC.

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