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  1. #1

    Polaris freedom fuel trouble

    I just bought a 2003 Polaris freedom 700. When I got it to the water, it did not run too great. It does not want to idle well at all. Any throttle manipulation 1/2 and below usually results in bogging or completely dying. Most of the time, if you just hold the throttle wide open it will run fairly descent, and then at random it will take off running like I think it should. Then I'll hit a wave or something and power will drop again. It seems it is not getting good fuel flow intermittently. I drained all of the old fuel out and put new in, ran it a bunch today and no change. I also took the carburetor apart and it seems surprisingly clean. I have rebuilt quite a few float type carburetors but have never messed with one like this. I did not notice any tears in the diaphragm but the edges were peeling up. Are they supposed to be completely glued in place? Fuel line is the red type and seems like it is in good shape. The only problem I can find is the carburetor is getting a little wet with fuel on the bottom side, where the (i believe to be) low speed mixture adjustment screw is. I have also noticed a lot of fuel vapor in the hull, maybe it is just from the small leak at the carb, as I cannot find any other loose hose or leak. This carb was supposedly re-worked not long ago and I noticed some of the jets were slightly off in size from the ones in the repair manual. Ski has oil injection block off kit, boysen reed valves, and a 40:1 mixture. That's all I can think of for now, anything else you guys need to know, I'll do my best. I can do pictures too if need be. Thanks in advance.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    There should be zero fuel leakage inside the hull. This is a significant safety issue.

    I suggest you rebuild the carburetor yourself using genuine Keihin rebuild parts. These are available from John Zigler of www.watcon.com

    Do not continue to run this machine until you have the problem(s) solved. It is entirely possible to damage the engine with a malfunctioning or incorrectly jetted carburetor.

    Do not assume there is only one problem happening. The fuel selector valve may need replacement, for example.

    See my signature links for more info.

  3. #3
    Any way to check out the fuel selector valve? Fuel flowed well the entire time I drained the old 9 gallons of fuel out of it. How about the check valves for tank pressure? Is there no return line restrictor on this model? I removed a 1/4 barb splice from the main line today thinking someone did that because they were short of hose. Turns out it is oem on the parts diagram. Any reason I need to put that back in when I do new line? Is John's line good quality? Good for pulse line? I will order the rebuild kit, my only concern is I don't know what someone else did to this carb, I'm now concerned with pop off pressure and why they chose these jet sizes. Also, I did check compression with a cheap gauge from autozone. They both read exactly 90 PSI, which I assume is low, but I question the calibration of this gauge since they are so equal to eachother. The motor is supposed to have less than 15 hours on the top end, and it supposedly ran really strong last summer, so I really feel it is a fuel problem. Thanks.

  4. #4
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    If compression is truly that low, that can cause all kinds of running issues. If there is damage to the edges of the carb diaphragm, it can cause fuel to leak out at the joint where the cover plate bolts on. I would get that fixed. Make sure the regulator arm is set exactly correct.

  5. #5
    I am going to rent a different gauge today to check that. The diagram is not torn. It just seems half of it is glued to the edges of the carburetor and the rest is starting to peel up, but the edges aren't actually torn.

  6. #6
    This is the jetting I found in the carb today:

    Primary main jet - 135 (Manual calls for 148.)
    Secondary main - 120 (same as manual)
    Mid range jet - 40 (calls for 42)
    Pilot jet - 58 (same as manual)

    One thing I did notice was the low speed mixture screw was out a ways further than the 1 3/4 that the manual calls for. The limiter was actually turned down against the outer edge of the hole that the screw goes through, instead of in-between the edges of the slot. This would make it more rich which I guess could have been the issue. I wonder if it was turned out so far that the leak was coming from there and it was sucking air while running too.

  7. #7
    I traded out the gauge for one exactly like it and got the same reading. I put a cap full of 2 stroke oil in the cylinders and they only went up 5-6 PSI each. Would that rule out the rings? I'm still questioning these gauges.

  8. #8
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    Get that main jet where its supposed to be and see where that puts you. 135 is quite a bit smaller than 148

  9. #9
    Just bought a new gauge from o'reilly's. 97-100 PSI across both cylinders. Is it safe to say that with a third gauge I have a compression problem? Easy way to track down where the loss of compression is?

  10. #10
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    Make sure you have a strong battery. If its somewhat weak it can alter compression numbers.

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