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  1. #1

    My Other First Ski - '95 HX - sunk and likes to kill switches

    Hello Greenhulk!

    I recently acquired my first jet-powered vehicles, a 1996 Kawasaki 900 Zxi and a 1995 Seadoo HX. I've got a question or two about the HX.

    When I got this ski, I was told it was hard to ride. I even did some research and found people talking about different ways to get on it, like sideboarding it instead of from the back. Well, when I finally went to ride it a couple weeks ago I failed pretty miserably. Between my attempts at sideboarding and some attempts at getting on from the rear, I managed to sink the ski. Luckily I was smart enough to scramble to figure out what to do to save this thing. I had the majority of the water out of the cylinders ASAP (within an hour of sinking it) and managed to get it started 2 nights later. Though I haven't had a chance to try and ride it again yet, I did back it into the water and run it on the trailer at about 1/4 throttle for 7-8 minutes.

    First thing I did after I got it running again was tighten that back hatch. It had been pretty loose and I'm sure it was letting in a LOT of water. I've also bought a versaplug. Is there anything else I should know that would help prevent this from happening again?

    Also, when I got this ski it came with what is obviously not the original kill switch. The switch worked fine when I bought the ski, but by the time I got it home the switch had stopped working. I bought a new one before the sinking incident, and it worked fine for me to sink the ski as well as to get it started two days later. I tried to take the ski out this past weekend and the switch was dead again. I bypassed the switch and of course the ski started right up without any issues. I bought two more switches so I'll have a spare, but I'd like to stop burning through them. Any ideas why they keep dying? The switch I bought is from amazon:
    This is the same style that was on the ski when I got it.


  2. #2
    So I got the new kill switches I ordered, and they came with the lanyards attached. I'm beginning to think that something about how these are designed causes them to fail if you leave the lanyard off for extended periods of time. There isn't any sort of key or on/off switch on this vehicle except for the kill switch. If I leave the kill switch lanyard attached will the battery drain?

  3. #3
    OLD # 7 IEGPR's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Rialto CA
    The HX was sea doo's version of yamaha's blaster. Its a step up from a stand up and step down from a runabout. They are fun to ride ! Once you get on lol. Keep at it, it is the closest thing to motor cross on water. to help with water removal you should install a electric pump! Its a must on most ski's. 500 rule would work nice. And as far as the switch if the one you just got fails again you might want to think about ordering a OEM part. And i dont think it will kill the battery if you leave it in

  4. #4
    As far as I know leaving the key on the post will kill the battery as it keeps the module "awake". I have owned an HX since new , 17 years and its still the only ski I want to ride. As far as getting on it in deep water get on from the side just lean it over to you turn the handles away from you and LOTS of throttle is your friend. When you get it the first time youll wonder why you thought it was so hard. Then you can the snot out of it with confidence.

  5. #5
    Myself's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    North Central Arkansas
    The side boarding depends on how heavy or tall you are. I'm 240# and 6'7"....I've got too much leverage on the ski to side board allthough I have done it a couple times. I actually just climb up from the rear while keeping steady balance. The kill switch is just a kill switch on that model, it does not drain the battery. Your switches should not be dying though, maybe cheap chinese parts. There is just enough room at the rear right under the hatch to mount a bilge pump. You can exit just to the left of the hatch latch. You will need a one way check valve on the line so the water can't come back in through the bilge pump. I use a check valve from the water well section at Lowe's, I believe it was $10.

  6. #6
    myown1manarmy's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Noblesville, Indiana, United States
    I found the best way to get back on is to come up on the left side put your tether on and start it up then turn to the right and gun it and just hope your swim trunks are on tight no one wants to see a bare ass doing a superman haha

  7. #7
    Thanks for the suggestions on the bilge pump, and you were definitely right about the switch being just a kill switch. I left the switch hooked up for about a week, came back and the ski still had a good battery.

    I'm 6'3" and trying to lean that ski over and get my foot on it had it leaned WAY over. So I tried to board from the back and was having lots of trouble balancing. Water was also coming in the back hatch so I didn't get to try for very long before the ski was filled. I'm sure I'll get the hang of it with a little practice once the ski is running right!

    Last wednesday I took this ski out for the first time since sinking it. I had a friend with me this time, and he held the ski for me to get on so I could start on the ski instead of already in the water. It still had those gray fuel lines at that point, and the ski would surge, bog, and then die if you tried to give it anything more than about 1/3 throttle. Thursday (4th of july) I pulled all the gray fuel line out except for the overflow line - it was being stubborn. I also pulled the carbs off the engine and put a can of carb cleaner through them. I'm not much of a mechanic (yet), so I didn't take the carbs apart very far. What I did take apart didn't seem nearly as dirty as I was expecting, but maybe that was the carb cleaner doing its job before I got them apart.

    Once I had it all back together we headed out on the river. When I got to the ramp I tried to start the ski before putting it in. When I did this I managed to kill the battery by cranking on it for too long. I pulled my car up real close to the trailer, put on jumper cables, and tried again. With it jumped from the car I got the ski to start. I ran it for a few seconds and then left it hooked up to the car for 5ish minutes to put a small charge back into the battery. i then backed it into the water, and it started right up and initially seemed to run great. It idled fine, and would take all the throttle I could give it. It felt like I would expect. However, I was running about 1/2 throttle and playing around a bit when all of a sudden it just died. It didn't seem to me like a fuel problem, because it didn't sputter or bog. It just stopped, almost like I had hit the kill switch. The battery was still low, so it would then crank pretty slow but start up after 3-4 cranks. It did this die and restart thing I think 3 times and then the battery wouldn't turn over the engine anymore and I had to get it towed back to the dock.

    Would a low battery do this on its own? I took the battery out and I'm planning to try running the ski again today now that the battery is charged.

    Also, there is a brownish-black semi-clear line which is laying in the hull and isn't hooked to anything. It was there when I got the ski as far as I can tell. If you follow it back it goes through two odd-looking red and blue things next to the fuel cap (outside the hull and underneath a purple rubber cover) and then connects to a y-connecter that leads to the overflow on the gas tank. What is this line for and what are the two red and blue "things"? I'll take a picture when I'm out today if that is too vague of a description.

  8. #8
    Jump starting any of the seadoos from this era is a bad idea they dont like it and tend to blown mpem. At the very least make sure the car is not running. Best idea is to ALWAYS make sure the battery is charged before heading out by charging while disconnected from the ski. The brownish line should be connected to the vent on the battery. Low voltage can do wierd things to theses skis. You may have blown the voltage regulator. You should check the voltage at the battery with it running above 2500 rpm. As far as reboarding dont try to put your foot on until your really on the gas, let the ski do the work and scoop you up.

  9. #9
    Myself's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    North Central Arkansas
    With the carbs off you should remove the rectangular covers and you will find a small barrel shaped internal filter. Pull them out of both carbs and clean them out good. Another great way to board at the bank is throw your right leg over and lean it in towards you like you're about to kickstart a dirtbike. Obviously you will want to be in water over knee deep. Fire it up and then gas it as you bring the left leg on board.

  10. #10
    Well once I put in the charged battery the ski ran great from about 4:30-8:00. About that time I was messing around and had the exhaust sound change and the ski lost power. I headed for the beach I was near and shut it off. Opened the hood and I lost 3 of the 4 exhaust bolts, and the gasket had shifted positions to partially block the exhaust. Needless to say I was towed back to the dock by my other ski.

    Its good to know that I shouldn't be jumping these. Usually I figure a 12 volt system is a 12 volt system, I'm confused how jumping them could cause issues but I'm not the kind of person to push my luck with it so I'll just charge it up outside of the ski when I kill it. I suppose that would have been on a caution sticker? All the stickers were removed from this ski because the previous owner painted it. The only one he put back on was the 'roll this way' sticker on the back.

    Is the filter you're talking about on the same side as the pulse line or the other side under the diaphram? I had the rectangular covers off of both sides. When I saw the little spring mechanism on under that diaphram that was when I decided I didn't want to push my luck and put it all back together.

    Everyone is right, by the way. This ski is a blast to ride. A true PITA to get back onto after you've fallen off (which I do a lot, lol) but a ton of fun. I couldn't figure out at all how to get my left leg onto the ski, running or otherwise. So I would start instead with my right leg on the ski kind of semi-straddling it. Then crank the handlebars right and full gas. The ski then pulls itself straight and I can muscle my way into kneeling on the back platform, and then once its got a little speed I can stand up from there and move onto the seat. I imagine with more experience I'll figure out how to make this even easier. From the bank is pretty easy. I just put my right hand on the handlebars, left leg in the footwell, and then kind of half-jump so most of my weight is as far to the right side of the ski as I can. I get my right leg on and then lean back to left quick so it doesn't flip over. It sounds difficult but it really isn't, and its even easier with it running.

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