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  1. #1

    2000 STX DI - Engine lost power and eventually stalled - now won't crank

    Hi, this is my first post here and I have been reading about the other 2000 STX in a recent thread - just wondering if you guys had any insight for me... I had been out in the water going for about a half hour when the ski suddenly lost power, I went to about 20mph and this lasted for about 5 seconds, it then went only to idle and held there for about 15 seconds. The engine then stalled out and the starter would not crank it over. I opened up the hatch and there was a bit of white smoke/exhaust? I can see when I try to start it that the shaft does seem to want to turn, but I am not sure if the holdup is in the engine or something with the pump. I spoke with a marina and they said it could be the wear ring on the impeller? This is my 3rd ski, but I haven't owned one for a few years, I purchased it last week and this was my first time on the water with it. I called the guy I bought it from and he is willing to work with me on the repairs, but I am just wondering if this is something I can diagnose myself before bringing it to a shop. Thanks in advance.


  2. #2

    Join Date
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    If you operate in salt water, the wear ring on the pump can swell and cause the entire drive train to lock up.

    It's easy to determine if the pump is locked. Just remove the cover over the coupling (two 10mm bolts). Watch what happens when you hit the start button. If the crankshaft coupling moves, but the driveshaft coupling does not, then it's a pump problem.

    Or you can just pull the jet pump. There are 4 bolts that are removed from the back and two that are removed from under the ride plate. Disconnect the steering cable and the cooling/drainage hoses and pull the pump straight back. It comes out easily and goes back in just as easily.

  3. #3
    thanks so much, I will check it out as soon as this thunderstorm passes by - it has been consistent for the past week here with all these storms!

    The ski was used in salt water so I am hoping it is the wear ring instead of the engine.

  4. #4
    I was able to spin the coupler and then there was a knock from inside the engine. I removed the spark plugs and tried to spin it again and had the same result. I then tried starting it and it spun back to the same spot where I could get it to with my hand and the same knock occurred. Does this mean I should pretty much rule out anything with the impeller?

    If not the impeller, did a cylinder seize? (Hoping this won't mean a new engine...)

  5. #5
    TexasZ's Avatar
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    That "knock from inside the engine" probably means you lost a cylinder or worse.

    Most likely the best option would be this...
    Call the shop, if they have a Pro Scope or a boroscope of some type which they should have, they will be able to see inside the cylinders through the spark plug holes without taking anything apart. Takes only minutes to do, so the charge should be very minimal.

  6. #6
    steve45's Avatar
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    My bet is that you can pull the plugs and tell which cylinder you lost by just looking at them. Rotate the crank (if you can) until you can see the piston; you'll probably see enough damage through the spark plug hole to warrant pulling the head.

  7. #7
    I believe it is the middle cylinder, think I can hear the noise coming from it. As you can probably already tell, I am no expert here but I like to tinker and would take this on as a project. The center spark plug also has a brown color to it. Any idea what you think I did? If I did seize up a cylinder is this limited to the top end or could this have damaged the lower half too?

    I am assuming if it did seize that either it wasn't getting oil? any other causes that would be likely?

  8. #8
    steve45's Avatar
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    There are several things that will cause failure. Lack of oil, lack of cooling water, running too lean, breaking a piston ring, water ingestion, etc.

    Since the plug is brown, that would likely rule out running lean. My guess would be you caught a piston ring in a port and it broke. How many hours on the engine?

  9. #9
    Supposedly 40 hours so kind of surprised that it went myself but I don't know how it was stored or winterized before I got it...

  10. #10
    TexasZ's Avatar
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    Low hours (40) means that it sat around for years at a time. The amount of hours on a machine does mean something but it's important to remember that the age of the machine is going to deteriorate things whether it's clocking hours or not. In some aspects, it's much worse for a machine to sit for a long period of time compared to being run regularly.

    So at 13 years old it's plenty old enough for the oil lines to be stiff, brittle, cracked or have one come off.
    It's also old enough for the fuel lines to be eaten up on the inside from ethanol, or else that gunk fungi has grown in them. Clogged fuel filters, the thick layer of "syrup" in the gas tank from gas sitting around in it. Deteriorated cooling lines and on and on and on, etc etc etc....
    If it were mine I would be going through all the systems on it to make sure it's all cleaned out and replacing what needs to be replaced to bring the maintenance up to tip top condition.

    Hopefully the problem/s will turn out to be nothing major and you get it fixed so you can enjoy the rest of the summer riding it.

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