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  1. #1
    silver93t's Avatar
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    Jetworks with Riva S3 stinger?

    Ive searched around and found a few threads on this, but does anyone have a diagram or pic where all the water lines go? I have the pro valve and the plate that goes on the pump strainer with a 90 degree fitting. I also installed an additional through-hull fitting above the original bilge fitting.


  2. #2
    VdeKock's Avatar
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    The hose from the pump strainer with the pro valve goes to the middle hole of the stinger (water inlet)
    The 2outer holes of the stinger are outlets, I dump both overboard with pissers.

    http://www.flickr.com/photos/7690715...7634246376610/

  3. #3
    silver93t's Avatar
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    That's how I had it but it kept blowing the rubber coupler between the stock exhaust pipe and the stinger so I assumed I had it wrong. I have the starboard side fitting going through the original dump through the transom plate and the port fitting t'd into the rear cylinder hose per Riva's directions.

  4. #4
    VdeKock's Avatar
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    I have starboard, port side and the rear cylinder on separate pissers.
    I made 3pissers on the back. Maybe there is the pressure differance.

    1 time the front port side hose from that coupler came lose.
    It's still a risk.

  5. #5
    silver93t's Avatar
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    I bypassed the jetworks for now and hooked up the stinger per riva's direction. Honestly, losing motivation to tinker with it since I have my fzs now. I did notice that the rubber coupler was real oily so I cleaned it before putting it back. just haven't had a chance to test it out yet.

  6. #6
    silver93t's Avatar
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    Ok Ran the ski for a day with the jetworks bypassed and towards the end of the day the oem cooling coupler on the stinger blew off again dumping water into my carbs. I did notice that when riding with the seat off the coupler seems to swell a lot. I get decent water out of both pissers so I don't think its a restriction problem. I'm going to put the jetworks back tomorrow and get some good t-bolt clamps instead of the crappy original worm gears. Also going to weld some bead onto both flanges to keep it from popping.

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