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  1. #1

    Help a dummy...2001 Virage with 2003 ficht engine. No Spark!

    Hello all....I have been lurking in the shadows, sapping off of everyones knowledge on here and looking up what I can to get this thing runnin...No Joy!

    I recently purchased a 2001 Virage TX with a 2003 TXI FICHT 1200 FI red engine. The previous owner told me that he ran it one weekend and then had no spark the next. I got a good deal on it and a Kawai that needed an engine. I have tried everything that I found to check and found several issues. Below is a short narrative of my blunders. GRIN.

    1.) The electrical box was a mess...I cleaned it up and checked the kill box. Seemed fine.
    2.) Had 20 PSI fuel pressure and 30 if clamped on return.
    3.) Cleared codes using the led and jumpers. Sweet info there...Thanks for that one.
    4.) Charged battery as it was low.
    5.) Checked for start/Spark with TPS removed...Got it to chug and bark, but no start.
    6.) Checked injector voltage and found 21 volts during crank
    7.) Filled nearly empty fuel tank...LOL
    8.) After several hours of "Tinkering" changed the plugs from autolite to the correct NGK plugs...Fired, but would die relatively quickly after throttling up.
    9.) Rebuilt the Kawai engine and let this one set for a few days...Figured that I'd try it in the water so that I could run it for more than a few seconds at a time.
    10.) Came back to Polaris and found that I had no fuel pressure during crank, but still had injector voltage.
    11.) Shorted brown fuel pump wire to ground and found fuel PSI again.Disconnected TPS...Still no start.
    12.) Tested for Spark again and found no spark.

    I am now stuck and was hoping to take these to the lake this weekend with the kidos, but dont even know where to begin. I must tell you that I am not a jet ski mechanic, but I am a Maintenance guy (Etech/Mechanic to be exact) for a company that services LARGE diesel equipment, so I do this kind of thing on a daily basis, but I find myself beating my head on a concrete wall at this point. Is there anyone that feels like putting a pillow between my head and the wall?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Make very sure the battery is not only charged but is actually strong. Battery voltage while cranking must stay well above 10.6 volts or the battery is considered to be weak, regardless of how well it was charged.

    A weak battery will make you run in diagnostic circles.

    Make sure lanyard is in place

    You sure this is a 2001 hull with 2003 Ficht three cylinder engine? Last two digits of the HIN number plate on rear deck is the model year.

    Electrical box was a mess? Are you certain you now have everything in the right place and connected properly?

    Check voltage on White/Red wire with all injectors plugged in. Should be over 20 volts while cranking.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Make very sure the battery is not only charged but is actually strong. Battery voltage while cranking must stay well above 10.6 volts or the battery is considered to be weak, regardless of how well it was charged.

    A weak battery will make you run in diagnostic circles.

    Make sure lanyard is in place

    You sure this is a 2001 hull with 2003 Ficht three cylinder engine? Last two digits of the HIN number plate on rear deck is the model year.

    Electrical box was a mess? Are you certain you now have everything in the right place and connected properly?

    Check voltage on White/Red wire with all injectors plugged in. Should be over 20 volts while cranking.


    --I ran the weak battery gauntlet last time and have since changed my troubleshooting methods. I have access to many batteries via my profession and have opted to use a large group 31 for cranking/testing. They are good for many strong starts. (By the way, this is not a practice that is frowned upon is it?)

    --The lanyard is in place...I have made this mistake more than once...lol

    --It is a 2001 hull...As for the engine, I am at the previous owner's mercy there. It is definitely a FICHT 1200, but as for the details, I am not sure.

    --Electrical box had some wires protruding from the seal where they were pinched half in and half out of the box. I would put my electronics/electrical troubleshooting expertise up against many in the diesel industry...I would not however claim even basic proficiency in the polaris jet ski industry. I believe it to be a rather simple junction box, with labels on busses, but for me to say that I am 100% sure that the box is 100% right would definitely be a long shot. Give me a direction to check on things as I have not found a diagram in the service manual that I found...Also, the 2001 hull-2003 engine thing is causing me to wonder if things are not going to match up anyway.


    --I still have 21 volts while cranking on the White/Red wire for the front cylinder.


    Thank you all for your consideration and help. Going out to tinker (and maybe get a few honey-do's accomplished) for a while and will check back this afternoon.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Where are you putting a large 63 pound battery inside the hull?

    Electrically speaking, it should be OK having such a hefty battery hooked up, as long as the battery cable connections are solid to the battery and not long cables snaking around inside the hull.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    You can bypass the LR-503 Start/Stop module for testing purposes.

    The 2003 wire harness has this LR module in a different connector configuration compared to the 2001 module.

    2001 LR module has a bunch of spade connectors on individual wires, 2003 LR module would have a bulky connector with all the wires together.

  6. #6
    Touche...lol.

    Again, I have access to lots of electrical parts. I have just built a set of short battery cables from oooo battery cable and set the battery on the rear deck while cranking. This brings up another question. I have been waiting to get on the water to do anything serious. What is the best way to cool this model while starting/running in the driveway for long enough to diagnose issues...And still cool the engine correctly? I have seen the posts about the flushing attachments, but I am confused as to whether or not that method cools the whole system or not?

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    You can bypass the LR-503 Start/Stop module for testing purposes.

    The 2003 wire harness has this LR module in a different connector configuration compared to the 2001 module.

    2001 LR module has a bunch of spade connectors on individual wires, 2003 LR module would have a bulky connector with all the wires together.

    Well, that confirms alot...This box is a box of spaghetti (Drives me nuts it do...) and has about 50 spade terminals in it. Grin.

  8. #8
    Back on the correctness of the box itself...I can say that if it is black, it is plugged in with the other black wires on the black terminals. If it is orange...etc. What I do not know is if this is correct. I'm using the jounryman's electrical for dummies school of thought...lol. I know that there was at least one update that required moving a black/wht wire to black somewhere or a purple/red to something else. I wanted to start out with a known mess and work forward. I did test the LR-503 module before I changed plugs and it did not make any difference. (No start with or without it bypassed.) but I have not bypassed it since I got it to start and then not start again. I will look at that later today.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Most diagnostics can be done within the first 30 seconds or less after engine start. In many cases within 10 seconds.

    Get it started, idle for a couple of seconds, then burp the throttle or do whatever you need to do for testing, then shut it down.

    Engine is just fine without water, from a cool start, for at least 20 seconds on the trailer. If already warmed up, limit yourself to maybe 10 seconds running, then let it cool a while.

    Therefore no need to mess with garden hose connections.

    Max run time on the garden hose is only two minutes anyways, due to friction heating of the uncooled driveline seals.
    Last edited by K447; 07-03-2013 at 12:42 PM.

  10. #10
    good info...

    Now I just need to make her feel like starting so that I can feel that throttle burping goodness. lol.

    THANK YOU FOR THE HELP!

    I know that caps are annoying, but I had to say it loud!

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