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  1. #1

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    02 virage 700 no spark

    hi wife hit submerged buoy and tore open the hull last night it flooded engine comparment. got it home pulled plugs to get water out and start but no spark now even with new plugs. pulled stator cover off and full of water. dried it out and still no spark. opened electrical box and just some condensation in it but bilge fuse was blown. replaced fuse and still no spark but bilge runs all the time while cranking regardless if i push bilge switch. engine will not crank if i push bilge switch first then start button. this is 02 virage 700 carb. want to get engine runnning as i found a donor hull. by the way dont believe the tear in hull harmed engine went under the pan of engine and dont see any other issues.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Sounds like something or things have shorted or still have water inside electrical connections.

    Also remove, clean and check the ground connections. Start with the engine end of the heavy black battery cable. Then check the grounds inside the electrical box. Should be zero ohms from electrical box Black terminals back the engine block (with battery disconnected).

    Disconnect and bypass the LR module, it is not needed to start and run engine, just needed for battery charging and such.

    See my signature links for the details on bypassing the LR-505 module.

  3. #3

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    is it possible for you to post link of lr505 bypass having a hard time finding your info on it.

  4. #4
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    LR-505 Start/Stop module bypass methods (carburetor engines)

    Quote Originally Posted by DRIFTROCKER View Post
    is it possible for you to post link of lr505 bypass having a hard time finding your info on it.
    LR-505 Start/Stop module bypass methods (carburetor engines)

  5. #5

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    just noticed another thing if mfi goes to sleep it will not wake up when you hit start switch but will it i unplug and reconnect it or disconnect battery and reconnect. what would cause bilge to run while cranking if not pushing switch? tried bypassing lr 505 and still no spark. dont know if i did it right? checked every plug i could find for water but none noted. just a thought if engine was running if it injested water would it shear the flyweel key? would it still spark cause flyweel turns thought it should still spark but timing would be off.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRIFTROCKER View Post
    just noticed another thing if mfi goes to sleep it will not wake up when you hit start switch but will it i unplug and reconnect it or disconnect battery and reconnect.

    what would cause bilge to run while cranking if not pushing switch?

    tried bypassing lr 505 and still no spark. dont know if i did it right?

    checked every plug i could find for water but none noted.

    just a thought if engine was running if it injested water would it shear the flyweel key? would it still spark cause flyweel turns thought it should still spark but timing would be off.
    LR module does normally power up the Orange wire (Switched Accessory power) when engine is cranking. So it is normal for bilge pump to run when engine is cranking.

    MFI not waking up, on a carburetor engine, suggests that the stator charging coil is disconnected somewhere or is open circuit inside the stator.

    Ohm check the stator charging coil (battery disconnected, stator wires disconnected).

    Recheck the other stator coil ohms while you are in there. And test the Hall Effect sensors.

    Confirm it is properly connected at both Red/Purple stator wire and the Yellow stator wire. With engine off the Yellow stator wire should have battery voltage present.

    The display uses the RPM signal from the Yellow wire to wake itself up. No RPM signal = no wake. Does the display show RPM while cranking?

    If flywheel has sheared the woodruff key then the timing will be wildly incorrect but should still have spark.

  7. #7

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    ok cant get any readings from either of the hall effect sensors just reads open with 9v battery conected and turning engine by hand on fluke digital multimeter. do i need analog meter for this? or could both tiggers be bad. are triggers replacable seperately from stator? rest of stator seems to ohm out ok.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DRIFTROCKER View Post
    ok cant get any readings from either of the hall effect sensors just reads open with 9v battery connected and turning engine by hand on fluke digital multimeter. do i need analog meter for this?

    or could both tiggers be bad. are triggers replacable seperately from stator? rest of stator seems to ohm out ok.
    Digital Fluke meter is the normal test meter.

    Make sure you have the probe polarity correct. And 9 volt battery polarity correct.

    Fluke multi-meter is normally set for ohms mode, not continuity mode (beeping sounds). I would use the 2000 ohms range, if your meter is not auto-ranging.

    Hall Effect sensors are bonded into the stator. Not easily replaceable.

    My guess is that the sensors are OK and your measuring method is somehow incorrect. It is possible for both sensors to be damaged, but that seems to be rare.

  9. #9

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    I appreciate your quick responses! I will try test again. Remember ski flooded and stator cover was full of water and I did crank it over that way to try to clear water from engine with plugs out . Would that fry triggers?

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by DRIFTROCKER View Post
    I appreciate your quick responses! I will try test again. Remember ski flooded and stator cover was full of water and I did crank it over that way to try to clear water from engine with plugs out . Would that fry triggers?
    Have you inspected the stator and wiring for physical damage?

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