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  1. #1

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    xl1200 Limited carb issues/problems

    Took my carbs apart and found that the little plastic piece under one of the regulator body wasn't lying flat it was bent upwards and open. The other two are flat against the regulator body. What can/will this do to the performance? I tried to take the little screw off and bend it back down but it is frozen with a little rust on it I sprayed it with PB blasters and it wonít come off. Which leads me to another issue I took of the tamper caps and one of my lows will not move itís also frozen. It been soaking for a few days now and still wonít move. Any suggestions on how to get it off? I have been using a screw driver should I use a ratchet with a screw driver bit in it and put a little beef into it or will it break? These carbs were running last year with the above issues although I had a lean runaway. Thanks for any information you can provide.


  2. #2
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    I assume you are talking about the check valves there are 2 per carb and they will greatly affect performance and cause a lean condition. if there is any problem with them they should be replaced ant any faulyt part in the carbs. as far as the low speed adjuster if it is stuck bad and you haven't turned it any you would be better off leaving it alone unless you have modded your ski to the point of rejetting and adjustment is a must.

  3. #3

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    Mudslanger, I believe it’s on the other side. It’s the part that’s in front of the needle, float arm and pin. It has two Philips head screws and when you remove it on the underside there is a appx 1/4 x 1/2 inch clear plastic gasket that is attached by a very small Philips head screw. On two different carb diagrams it’s referred to as the body or regulator. That is the one that is not laying flat its bent up and unfortunately that is the only one I can’t get off along with the low idle screw. The check valves look good no creases and nice and clean although looking at the pictures I don’t think they are Mikuni I didn’t see the strip going across them. Is there any way to spray the low screw from inside the carb I’ve been doing it from the outside with no luck. I’ll try to see if I can get pictures on tonight. Thanks for the assistance and suggestions.

  4. #4
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    You can spray them from the inside of the low speed jet.

  5. #5

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    Update. I was able to get the low idle adjustment screw out. Soaked it blasters from the outside and from the inside as suggested by mudslanger for 2 days. Also, used another spray I got from my brother in law the machinist not sure what it was. Applied heat to the outside, very little at a time (3 times) although it seemed when it was hot the screw wouldn’t move but as it cooled down you could get it to turn very little. Started by bottoming out the screw then worked it back and forth. Most times it was only a 1/16 or so (and you could hear it creaking) at a time and at times it seemed it didn’t move any more than it did the time before but just kept working it. It took about 40 minutes or more for it to come out and towards the end it came out easy. At one point I put the screw driver away and used a ratchet with a flat head tip. Also ground the tip down so it was wider or thicker and provided less movement in the slot when trying to move the screw. The key here was not to rush it. It is a pain and takes a lot of wrenching and time. Once the screw started to release we kept spraying and going back and forth and thankfully it was not stripped. The screw went back in with no problems and bottomed out and came right out again. I can’t stress this took a lot of patients and time. I plan on getting new highs and lows and hopefully it works. Thanks for the help.

  6. #6
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    Glad to hear you got them out i have broke the ears off on some that are junk now. but you hit the nail on the head patience and take your time.

  7. #7

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    Finally getting around to rebuilding my carbs. Using Bill’s recipe with the chokes intact. Have a few questions, I got the EZ tune screw kit each one came with its own O-ring and that’s it. The Mikuni rebuild kit doesn’t have instructions but does have a picture with all the parts (stock) and the order to install them. It’s showing in order, the High speed adjuster, spring, washer and O-ring. I put an O-ring on the EZ tune high speed adjuster, that’s all that came with it. So the question is do I need a spring, washer and another O-ring on the EZ tune adjuster? What is needed on the EZ tune adjuster? When I took out the stock high and low speed adjusters they only had springs, in fact one of the low’s didn’t even have a spring.

    Also, I asked the place where I ordered my rebuild kits to make sure the silver spring was in the kit. The kit I received has the shinny silver spring. From what I see here on the forum I got the wrong one I need the dull spring to complete Bills recipe? Is this still correct?

    All the jets and screws inside the carbs I hand tightened them pretty good do I really need to torque them down? I don’t want to strip them? Thanks.

  8. #8

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    EZ tune screw kit = T handle low and high adjusters.

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