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  1. #1

    Overheating question on STX 15 F

    Hi everybody. I own 2005 STX 15 F with 90hours on it. It was always kept in a garage and looks brand new with no rust. I always flush and spray engine compartment with water, dry and spray with silicone. Yesterday I ran ski for the first time in few months and after idling for few minutes it started spitting steam out of pisser and displayed overheat warning. As soon as I started ski and run it at a higher speed everything was ok. I ran it wot and with no problems. As soon as i started idiling same thing happened. I checked intake and did not see anything sucked in. No disconnected pipes nor water inside. No problem when run on a hose. What should I start looking for? Thanks for any advice. Kris


  2. #2
    TexasZ's Avatar
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    If you're sure none of the cooling lines are stopped up, here are a couple of places to check for blockage...may be partial but still enough to cut down on the water flow.

    It can stop up here or have a partial blockage on top of the jet pump...Look at part # 14091 http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...%29/parts.html
    You will have to remove it to inspect.

    On the older models, yours is included, there is a water pipe under the intake manifold that is notorious for causing problems, blockages, and needs to be replaced. It will most likely disintegrate when you try to do that. Look at part # 32144http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...EAD/parts.html

    It might not make any sense but if you haven't changed your spark plugs recently, like this season, do so. Spark plugs not firing the way they should will cause a 15F to overheat.
    If the oil level is too high it will overheat.

    Sorry to tell ya, but the most likely place is that water pipe I mentioned. It's not a fun job at all to replace that thing.

    When you do find the solution, come back and update us so we can all learn from the experience.

  3. #3
    Thank you TexasZ. Now I know where to start. I guess you have to remove intake manifold to get to water pipe. Also is possible to remove vane guard cover part#14091 without disassembling entire jet pump? If it is easier I would start here and see if I can find something stuck there.

  4. #4
    TexasZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kris70 View Post
    Thank you TexasZ. Now I know where to start. I guess you have to remove intake manifold to get to water pipe. Also is possible to remove vane guard cover part#14091 without disassembling entire jet pump? If it is easier I would start here and see if I can find something stuck there.
    Yes, the #14091 on top of the jet pump is semi-quick and easy to come off. Remove the water outlet hose off each end, remove 2 bolts and it will come off. Be careful with the o-ring seal there and you can re-use it. Check out all those little strainer holes, they can be cleaned out with a piece of wire if needed.

    Yes, the intake manifold has to be removed to get to the water pipe. The part of the water pipe that is likely to give you a problem is the outlets that go into the head. If badly corroded they might break off and are difficult to remove.
    If you pull that water pipe out and it has not been updated to the newer version, update it now.

    On a side note while I have your attention... After getting your heating problem done, take a look at the number imprinted on your CDI. If the number ends with 3730 you really ought to update it to the newer version (3737) with the much better ignition timing, etc. The 3737 was used in the 2006 models onward. http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detai...1175-3737.html
    You can buy a used CDI for around 150 but I went the new route for 266.
    It is part #21175 on this diagram.
    http://www.partzilla.com/parts/searc...ION/parts.html

    Also, just in case you haven't read it the 287 bazillion times we have posted it. LOL Use anti-seize on the spark plugs when installing them and use a torque wrench. Torque is 113 inch pounds.

  5. #5
    It is funny you mentioned anti-seize. I had a service plan with my dealership when I bought my ski new and of course my spark plugs seized. They never used anti-seize. I looked at CDI and it ends with 3731 ? My title actually says it is 2006 model so maybe I got lucky in this respect. I haven't started working on my ski yet but I really appreciate your help. I will check vane cover and if that does not help I will order water pipe before I start taking intake manifold off. Do you happen to know #part for updated version of water pipe? Thanks again. Kris

  6. #6
    TexasZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kris70 View Post
    It is funny you mentioned anti-seize. I had a service plan with my dealership when I bought my ski new and of course my spark plugs seized. They never used anti-seize.
    They should know better.

    I looked at CDI and it ends with 3731 ?
    That's strange. Look at the number at the very top. The 21175-3737 is the one you need.

    My title actually says it is 2006 model so maybe I got lucky in this respect.
    What color is it? Blue or green? 2005 had blue hoods/hatches, 2006 had green hoods/hatches. If it's a 2006 it probably already has the later version of the pipe and should have had the updated CDI.

    I haven't started working on my ski yet but I really appreciate your help. I will check vane cover and if that does not help I will order water pipe before I start taking intake manifold off. Do you happen to know #part for updated version of water pipe? Thanks again. Kris
    32144-3709 PIPE-ASSY
    92005-3714 FITTING (brass)
    and the 2 o-rings... 670B2012 O RING,12MM
    (The 2005 water pipes did not have that brass inlet fitting at the end of them.)

    Take a look at your water pipe first, you may not need it.

    Oh, forgot to say...another place they like to clog at is the bottom water fitting on the primary (left side) water-box/muffler.
    The inlet and outlet fittings on the stator cover at the rear of the motor are also known to clog up.

    It would be really helpful if you had an air-compressor so you could blow air through all these cooling lines to clear them out.

    Good thread for additional info is Sean's...
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=186939
    Last edited by TexasZ; 07-14-2013 at 10:29 AM. Reason: Added link to Sean's thread.

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  8. #7
    My name is Sean and I am addicted to STXs smokeysevin's Avatar
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    On the newer model skis they also use a very small inlet on the dual waterbox fitting on the inlet to the primary waterbox. I have also seen the stator cover bearing cooler clog from sand or corrosion. Its right where the coupler is at the rear of the engine.

    Sean

  9. #8
    Thanks for the info Smokeysevin and TeaxasZ. My ski is red and CDI number is 21175-3731. Well... I took vane cover off (i guess it would be helpful to have hobbit xs size palms to work on ski) and all the holes look good and there is no rust or any debris. I have a compressor. TexasZ Are you saying that I could just blow the cooling system without disassembling it? How should I do it? Thanks. Kris

  10. #9
    Also what kind of thread locker should I use. Vane cover bolts have some green stuff on them. Thank you.

  11. #10
    TexasZ's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kris70 View Post
    Thanks for the info Smokeysevin and TeaxasZ. My ski is red and CDI number is 21175-3731.
    The 3731 superseded the 3730. The 31 was an improvement over the 30 but it had it's problems too. The 37 was the one they got right and have been using since 2006-7. 21175-3731 is the one you need.

    Red... doh! I forgot you had a color choice that year. Wish mine was red...
    Well... I took vane cover off (i guess it would be helpful to have hobbit xs size palms to work on ski) and all the holes look good and there is no rust or any debris. I have a compressor. TexasZ Are you saying that I could just blow the cooling system without disassembling it? How should I do it? Thanks. Kris
    Leave that part unhooked for right now. Blow it out in sections. Whatever connectors Smokey and I talked about that you can get to. Leave as many as you can unhooked so if you blow some gunk through one place it has a place to get out of the system. Just make sure you keep up with where the lines were connected. We use paint pens, tape with numbers we mark on it, whatever we have on hand at the time to mark the hose and the connector so we know where to hook them back up.

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