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  1. #1

    Crankshaft removal GP1200r

    How do i remove the crankshaft on a 2001 GP1200R? I have the crankcase open already. I believe I have a bad crank bearing on the first rod. Is it possible to take apart the crankshaft and replace this bearing or is it best just to get a new crankshaft. Suggestions please? Thanks


  2. #2
    Unless you have Machine shop these cranks are non serviceable. Call Crankworks for a rebuild or buy OEM. If you don't plan on keeping the ski then go the SBT route.

  3. #3
    Skoog's Avatar
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    The cranks are user serviceable

    Quote Originally Posted by theheisk View Post
    Unless you have Machine shop these cranks are non serviceable. Call Crankworks for a rebuild or buy OEM. If you don't plan on keeping the ski then go the SBT route.
    This isn't magic you need a adequate press 20T+ and dial micrometers to verify <0.002" run out. Search the web and you see exactly how to do it. Don't weld the crank this action will render the part unserviceable in the future.

    If you plan on keeping the PWC make sure to buy quality bearings no OEM cheapies. Timken, NSK and others have hi-grade class 10 ABEC bearings which are worthy for my son's V12 Bentley, Aston Martin Vanquish V12 and McLearen F4 among others. Overkill not really at PWC inflated prices why not have the best it cost even less.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    50+ years in computers and taught son electronics, hey I didn't want him home again, all this engine wrench work is easy compared to dealing with nanosecond bugs and ECM's which can easily destroy and engine is milliseconds. Electronics will rule the world and you better start getting use to it or pick a fight with a dozer. We walk the talk!! Now back to designing my airplane.

  4. #4
    1200Jet's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skoog View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by theheisk View Post
    Unless you have Machine shop these cranks are non serviceable. Call Crankworks for a rebuild or buy OEM. If you don't plan on keeping the ski then go the SBT route.
    This isn't magic you need a adequate press 20T+ and dial micrometers to verify <0.002" run out. Search the web and you see exactly how to do it. Don't weld the crank this action will render the part unserviceable in the future.

    If you plan on keeping the PWC make sure to buy quality bearings no OEM cheapies. Timken, NSK and others have hi-grade class 10 ABEC bearings which are worthy for my son's V12 Bentley, Aston Martin Vanquish V12 and McLearen F4 among others. Overkill not really at PWC inflated prices why not have the best it cost even less.

    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Aston Martin Vanquish S.jpg 
Views:	33 
Size:	32.3 KB 
ID:	317514Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Eddie's Bently.jpg 
Views:	48 
Size:	67.3 KB 
ID:	317515Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Ford GT.jpg 
Views:	58 
Size:	47.3 KB 
ID:	317516Click image for larger version. 

Name:	Skyfall Private Watch Party.jpg 
Views:	49 
Size:	74.4 KB 
ID:	317517

    50+ years in computers and taught son electronics, hey I didn't want him home again, all this engine wrench work is easy compared to dealing with nanosecond bugs and ECM's which can easily destroy and engine is milliseconds. Electronics will rule the world and you better start getting use to it or pick a fight with a dozer. We walk the talk!! Now back to designing my airplane.

  5. #5
    TuningForkMarine's Avatar
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    lol so my typing above.... Put a good OEM crank, u can get get one for about 350, or a new SBT... personally i like their cranks... solid quality. Split the block and work the crank out... simple job. always install new seals.

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