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  1. #1

    1996 Polaris SLTX Terminal Board

    Hey guys I am brand new to the forum and brand new to jet skis, which means I am also brand new to Polaris. But I have done my research and I have just bought a 1996 SLTX 1050 with about 150 hours and a freshly rebuilt engine for $850. Someone ruined the CDI box by not putting the seal back on the electrical box after the update kit was installed. So it has a good stator and the coil pack is in good shape and the voltage regulators look good as well. I found an updated CDI for it for $200 and got a new terminal board as well. My problem now is putting it all back together. I dont know where each wire needs to go and all of the diagrams I have found so far are not very helpful. I am looking for a diagram of each connection to the terminal board or just some details pictures. If anyone could help that would be great.


  2. #2
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Welcome to the Hulk! The terminal board should be labelled with wire colors to make connection very easy. Red/P, Black/y, etc.....

    More information worth reviewing, if you haven't already: Http://PolarisPWCknowledge.shorturl.com

  3. #3
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    See sample photos:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    This thread may be of some help as well, although it is a different model ski.....

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=193805&page=8

  4. #4
    Thanks for the quick responses. So i guess my question is other that the Orange to Red/Purple wire swap via the service bulletin, all other wires go directly to a connection via their labeled color? does it matter what sides they go on? Is there an exact pattern that should be followed. I am only being this cautious because I prefer not to fry any of the expensive components that I just purchased.
    On a side note anyone know of a good cheap replacement to the throttle lever? only ones I have found are $40 for this ski. I prefer original or something close to it.

  5. #5
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Does not matter which of the tabs they go on, it is all one bus. No specific pattern required or preferred.

  6. #6
    Well then this should be interesting because previous to my mingling. There was a tan wire stretched really tight over to the blue tab on the board. Also would it be in my best interest to completely re-do the ground cable from box to battery, considering that is very important.?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ssmi291 View Post
    Well then this should be interesting because previous to my mingling. There was a tan wire stretched really tight over to the blue tab on the board. Also would it be in my best interest to completely re-do the ground cable from box to battery, considering that is very important.?
    I would instead confirm that the Black stator wire was well grounded to the engine case and to the electrical box, then delete the thin black wire to the battery.

    That thin Black wire to the battery can cause trouble if the heavy black wire from the battery ever becomes corroded or loose.

    The Ignition System Update Kit instructs that thin Black wire be removed, primarily (as I understand it) to avoid potential for electrical fire should the heavy black cable go bad.

  8. #8
    Well new issue now. How often does the coil pack go out on this model. From the outside it looks great. But I just got everything finally wired back together the way it should be and she will turn over all day but no spark. And this is with a brand new sealed AGM Gel Cell battery that is putting out 14.5 volts. I am confused. New CDI, New terminal board, new battery.... whats next? How do I test the spark plugs off the machine?

  9. #9
    If either of the voltage regulators are bad with this cause me to not get any spark? Also forgot to mention while turning over the MFD starting blinking red and showing the HOT warning light and word on display. What could this mean considering the engine didnt even fire?

  10. #10
    New question. I tested the red/purple wire at the CDI upon cranking and it is getting power. Could the circuit breaker be the problem? If so could I bypass it for testing purposes? Also if I have a ground connection issue could I just make my own ground to the block with some wire and connectors from inside the box to eliminate all questions.

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