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  1. #1
    jeteffect's Avatar
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    (+) Red battery to Starter Cable a little loose

    Found this yesterday while inspecting the engine compartment, hose clamps and connections, etc...

    The red power cable from the + on the battery going to the starter is a little loose. There is no gap between the cable end and the nut securing it, but you could easily swing the cable up/down.

    I am assuming it's supposed to be tight like the cables on the battery terminals?

    Looks like a 10mm socket and I could access it with a small socket wrench.

    Thoughts/Comments?Click image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Mothman's Avatar
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    It shouldn't move, but don't Schwarzenegger it.

  3. #3
    jeteffect's Avatar
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    I have tightened it to secure the cable, but no, I not with The Terminator strength!
    Thanks.

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    the terminal was damaged by an overheat situation. When faced with that, be aware that you are soon to have a problem with the starter.

    Specially if you torque the cable trying to pull the boot over it.

    Is that an aftermarket starter. Paint looks sloppy

  5. #5
    jeteffect's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    the terminal was damaged by an overheat situation. When faced with that, be aware that you are soon to have a problem with the starter.

    Specially if you torque the cable trying to pull the boot over it.

    Is that an aftermarket starter. Paint looks sloppy
    Stock starter on gti 2011.
    What makes you think there was an over heating situation? Where do you think it would have occurred and why?

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    sorry, wasn't specific enough.

    at one time the starter was overheated and the plastic bits that provide pass thru insulation begin to melt, and that results in a bad "post" for the starter hot line.

    It's typical on aftermarket starters that have had a melt down. I've never pulled a bad oem starter that had a post problem. On the aftermarket ones I often have to deal with a hot lead nut that won't come off without twistage. I filed a 10mm wrench down to about half typical thickness to hold the bottom nut, so I could loosen the cable fixing nut.

  7. #7
    jeteffect's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nmpeter View Post
    sorry, wasn't specific enough.

    at one time the starter was overheated and the plastic bits that provide pass thru insulation begin to melt, and that results in a bad "post" for the starter hot line.

    It's typical on aftermarket starters that have had a melt down. I've never pulled a bad oem starter that had a post problem. On the aftermarket ones I often have to deal with a hot lead nut that won't come off without twistage. I filed a 10mm wrench down to about half typical thickness to hold the bottom nut, so I could loosen the cable fixing nut.


    Thanks for the reply!

    What from the photo leads us to think there was an overheating issue?

    How does a starter overheat - cranking too long? How long?

    Could it be the case it just worked loose over time/vibration?


    Ski was purchased brand new and never had an issue or indication of battery troubles.
    Please advise.
    Thanks

  8. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply!

    What from the photo leads us to think there was an overheating issue?

    <<when the stud for the hot lead connection is shaky, the plastic has been melted>>

    How does a starter overheat - cranking too long? How long?

    <<of course, cranking too long is a problem..a huge one. People crank the crap out of their engines when there is a starting problem, or the ski has been sunk and they are desperately trying to clear water and get the engine started. In my view, if you crank more then then two 5-second cycles a minute for five minutes the starter is going to get pretty hot.>>

    Could it be the case it just worked loose over time/vibration?

    Anything is possible, but I've seen enough to know it's pointing to another problem.

    On my web I have a whole section on starters..and why it's "never just the starter" when somebody comes in wanting a new starter installed, It's real important for me to find out exactly why the starter went out.

    It typically leads down a path of half truths that end up costing me and the customer lots more money and time then originally estimated.


    People think mechanics are uneducated idiots mostly, folks who couldn't get above that station in life, so they belive their half truths and evasive answers

    as an example..a <fill in the blank>>..

    "replace the starter captain"

    "sure what happened"

    "I dunno, just stopped working"

    turns out after the starter ( 1.2 hours)..it was the bendix(3.5 hours)..and then the oil pump had to be removed as water in the stator cover that rusted everything solid(1 hour)

    then after that affair was all said it done, there was no spark..the cdi was fried(another hour)

    then it turns out after some tough love questioning... that "somebody" had sunk the ski, smoked the starter cranking it for long periods ( with a car battery jumped to it) and the cdi was blown, likely from the high voltage of a running engine, or a battery charger on the start/200amp setting.

    How does this cost me money?..well..I never got paid for it ( the bill quickly shot up close to $1000) ..and now I have to go thru the trouble of filing a lien on a piece of crap ski that likely needs a crankshaft too.

    There is enough salvage that someday, I'll recover some of the money I was owed.

    "it's never just the starter"

    Well one time it was(almost). Guy came in with a no-start admitted to going thru "a couple of batteries" and it turned out after all was said and done he had failed to turn on the gas ( it was a Polaris where the fuel cock is hidden under the front of the seat) That one ended up needing a solenoid also.

  9. #9
    jeteffect's Avatar
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    Again, thanks for the reply!

    In my case there was no gap between the nuts and lead connector - it was not shaky, but the cable could move by hand if you pressed or pulled it up/down with slight force.

    From the photo posted I do not seen any sign of melting... do you guys? What does your starter post/lead connector look like? Photos???

    Please point me to your website's section on starters.
    Appreciate the replies!

  10. #10
    Keep in mind any electrical connection anywhere on a ski needs to be tight. Arcing may result if it isn't.

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