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  1. #1

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    R&D Pump Seal, SRZ-CD-15/19R, Gen 3IC, Free Flow Install Results/Problem

    I just went for a test run. Lots of cavitation out of the hole, once on plane, no more cavitation that I could notice, the ski would run about 70 on the riva dash logger or 73 on the dash at 8040rpm. It got to high 60's faster. 84f air/81f water temp (salt water). So this is actually pretty good considering in the winter time I ran about 8300rpm at the same speed in 55-60f weather on stock prop. I'm on the Athena computer, logger, wide band, dash logger. Real test will be to run it up next to my vtech 2010 RXTX260. They both ran even everywhere previously. So I get home and start to flush it and my bilge pump comes on...my ski is full of water up to the bottom of the engine about. A few pics of my PTO seal...and a pic of my Dash Logger below. Does my PTO look ok? I can't notice any rips or tears in the rubber part of the seal. The pump is seated very well as far as I'm concerned. So what caused the water in the boat and what caused the cavitation. I used the Solas nose cone...was that a mistake?
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  2. #2
    Eric Ocman's Avatar
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    Did that nosecone walk down the shaft?? Many of us run no nosecone.

  3. #3
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    Looks like your carbon seal is the cause, of both water in hull, and cavitation. Mine just had the same issue. How much tension is the accordion boot putting on the SS hat?
    If it moves side to side fairly easy, you will need to add more tension, or replace the boot, and carbon seal. A Speed Freeks bellow band helps, and also adding an O-ring between the boot , and hull fitting.

    Another cause can be bad engine mounts. Check them out to make sure the engine isn't shifting under hard acceleration.

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by psycho rxp View Post
    Looks like your carbon seal is the cause, of both water in hull, and cavitation. Mine just had the same issue. How much tension is the accordion boot putting on the SS hat?
    If it moves side to side fairly easy, you will need to add more tension, or replace the boot, and carbon seal. A Speed Freeks bellow band helps, and also adding an O-ring between the boot , and hull fitting.

    Another cause can be bad engine mounts. Check them out to make sure the engine isn't shifting under hard acceleration.


    Nosecone looks fine...still in place.


    When I press on the top of the boot(on the front clamp) I get what I think is about 3/8 deflection. When I lift up I get maybe a 1/8 deflection.

    So previously to my wrenching I would get almost no water in the boat. When I pulled the pump I supported the shaft with some firm foam to keep it basically in the middle. Did I damage the seal during that time?

    wear ring/prop look brand new and seated well from what I see looking at from the bottom. I suppose I need to put it back in the water on the trailer and see where the water comes in. PTO seal looks like a real PIA to deal with.

  5. #5

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    So when I look at this picture I can see a groove. Looking at the shop manual this groove shouldn't be visible. I can put my fingernail in the groove I'm thinking the shaft isn't all the way in. Is it possible I dislodged it when I pulled the pump off? The pump came off easy.

    I think I need to pull the pump and tap the shaft in. Finding it a little hard to believe I trashed the carbon seal in 15 min of test riding. thoughts?

  6. #6
    Swedish Viking Craigo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
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    Finding it a little hard to believe I trashed the carbon seal in 15 min of test riding. thoughts?
    It looks (from the picture) like there's a gap between the "floating ring" and the "carbon seal"?!
    Last edited by Craigo; 07-18-2013 at 01:00 AM.

  7. #7

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    I am thinking the impeller loosened from the pump shaft and pushed the drive shaft forward of the shaft sheered off.

    page 21 of this thread: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...194011&page=21

    or page 16 of this thread: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...196128&page=16

  8. #8
    Brd-Prey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim View Post
    I am thinking the impeller loosened from the pump shaft and pushed the drive shaft forward of the shaft sheered off.

    page 21 of this thread: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...194011&page=21

    or page 16 of this thread: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...196128&page=16



    You need to pull your oil filter ASAP and check for a substantial amount of Aluminum flecks. On the 2012 PX the impeller can unthread which forces the shaft to come forward but not enough to completely unthreading. The forward shaft motion is stopped by the thrust bearing in the engine. Check your oil filter!

  9. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    I just went for a test run. Lots of cavitation out of the hole, once on plane, no more cavitation that I could notice, the ski would run about 70 on the riva dash logger or 73 on the dash at 8040rpm. It got to high 60's faster. 84f air/81f water temp (salt water). So this is actually pretty good considering in the winter time I ran about 8300rpm at the same speed in 55-60f weather on stock prop. I'm on the Athena computer, logger, wide band, dash logger. Real test will be to run it up next to my vtech 2010 RXTX260. They both ran even everywhere previously. So I get home and start to flush it and my bilge pump comes on...my ski is full of water up to the bottom of the engine about. A few pics of my PTO seal...and a pic of my Dash Logger below. Does my PTO look ok? I can't notice any rips or tears in the rubber part of the seal. The pump is seated very well as far as I'm concerned. So what caused the water in the boat and what caused the cavitation. I used the Solas nose cone...was that a mistake?
    I installed a Solas 15/20 SRZ-CD on my 2010 TX, purchased from Rivas. After a few full WOT runs the ski started to cavitate and filled up with water. Took it back to Rivas for their inspection. They sent it back to Solas but never figured out what the root cause was. At my request, they replaced it with a new 15/20 SRX which I will machine to the appropriate set back. Have an SRX in there now with no problems like the SRZ had. I know of several that have successfully used the SRZ prop but I didn't have the same result.

  10. #10
    www.eastcoastpwc.net Scott's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glade Rider View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    I just went for a test run. Lots of cavitation out of the hole, once on plane, no more cavitation that I could notice, the ski would run about 70 on the riva dash logger or 73 on the dash at 8040rpm. It got to high 60's faster. 84f air/81f water temp (salt water). So this is actually pretty good considering in the winter time I ran about 8300rpm at the same speed in 55-60f weather on stock prop. I'm on the Athena computer, logger, wide band, dash logger. Real test will be to run it up next to my vtech 2010 RXTX260. They both ran even everywhere previously. So I get home and start to flush it and my bilge pump comes on...my ski is full of water up to the bottom of the engine about. A few pics of my PTO seal...and a pic of my Dash Logger below. Does my PTO look ok? I can't notice any rips or tears in the rubber part of the seal. The pump is seated very well as far as I'm concerned. So what caused the water in the boat and what caused the cavitation. I used the Solas nose cone...was that a mistake?
    I installed a Solas 15/20 SRZ-CD on my 2010 TX, purchased from Rivas. After a few full WOT runs the ski started to cavitate and filled up with water. Took it back to Rivas for their inspection. They sent it back to Solas but never figured out what the root cause was. At my request, they replaced it with a new 15/20 SRX which I will machine to the appropriate set back. Have an SRX in there now with no problems like the SRZ had. I know of several that have successfully used the SRZ prop but I didn't have the same result.

    My experience with the SRZ prop wasn't as bad but I noticed some serious drive shaft play. I also had my motor as far back as the mounts would allow and well with in the longitudinal position spec

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