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  1. #1
    I wanna go FAAAAASTer!! CDW78's Avatar
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    Gp1200r - Alarm, Pv's and some smoke!

    2k - gp1200r. Seems it's kinda slow out of the hole, maybe cavitates a little, which I read is kinda normal. I do have the seal kit installed, solas 13/19, tiny bends on the impeller blade edges, nothing major or anything else physically obvious though.

    I replaced the PV's with the updated versions and installed the cable backwards. The strange thing is, correcting the cables had 0 affect on the way it acts, which is around 5k it seems to take off. I dont know how its supposed to be really as I have never been on another PV model ski. I would think the cables being backwards would affect it greatly, and or it would be better after correcting them ?

    Also, had it out Friday, seemed after being out for a cpl of hours my temp alarm starts blaring about 10 mins after straight cruising. The throttle is also hard to pull and sticky. From what I've read here, seems to be the bushings swelling. Never did this before the over heat alarm. Maybe correcting that will keep them from sticking or is this just something that is going to happen whether or not it's actually over heating, does the engine heat at normal make it happen ?
    I am going to check the screen. Hopefully it's nothing more, but all the pissers were flowing like normal. Water coming out felt normal as well.

    I also seem to have some exhaust smoke under the seat, no water leaks from what I see. Around where the exhaust pipe goes around on the left front #1 Riva head edge seems to be a little carbon build up, like that is where it could be leaking. I can't tell when it's running. All the exhaust bolts are tight.

    Sorry for the long post - like to save up things Thanks in advance!


  2. #2

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    Dude, you have a multitude of problems. None of them seem really, really bad.... mostly just maintenance that needs to be done on your craft.

    Put the cables back the way they are supposed to, and make sure when they are done that the valves cycle open all the way.

    Sounds like your carbs needs to be serviced, and more than likely, the throttle shafts will need to be removed. The symptoms on mine were that the valves would stick and would take a while for the throttle to go full closed after I pull the throttle.... which did not make for a fun ride. I cleaned the shaft and bushings then used a thick silicone lubricant to put it back together and have not had any issues. You may want to go with new bushings.

    Do you have a "D" plate? You really have not given enough info here, but if you have the original catalytic converter, it may have gone bad which is why you may be getting the alarm. When you pull the pipe to work on the carbs, check if the cat con is good. If it is bad, then recover all of the pieces from your pipe and replace with the "D" plate.

    Exhaust gases under your seat are never going to allow your engine to run properly. I have found that it is much easier to find an exhaust problem at night with a flash light and the boat on a water hose. It may be exactly where you suspect, especially if there is soot located there. Every gasket is suspect though, including the gaskets at your power valves ( #1 cylinder PV gasket should be your primary suspect if you find soot on your pipe). Remember, you said that you had changed the valves so the gaskets are now suspect.

  3. #3
    I wanna go FAAAAASTer!! CDW78's Avatar
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    Thanks for the reply... I guess some additional might help, kinda caught up in the issues and forgot the rest -
    Cables have been corrected - seems to make no difference than before - They do work appear to be working. As I mentioned in my post, seems to take off at about 5k on the stock tach. I dont know what its really supposed to be like, first PV ski Ive been on.
    I have a Riva stinger 3 pipe.
    The throttle was fine until the alarm would sound. Wasnt sure if it was so hot it caused this or if just normal engine heat will cause it in the future. Either way, probably wouldnt hurt to do some work on the shafts.
    I didnt think about the PV cover, will check it asap. And as you suggested in the dark!

  4. #4
    I wanna go FAAAAASTer!! CDW78's Avatar
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    I checked the screen, looks ok.
    Also did as Salty suggested and checked for the exhaust / smoke issue in the dark with a light. I still can not tell exactly where it is coming from.
    When I replaced the PV's I did use copper spray on the old gaskets, bolts are tight on exhaust and PV covers as well.
    Attached a pic to help. I would assume its leaking from around this area with the build up, but maybe not ? :-/
    Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5

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    That does not really look like exhaust soot, rather it looks like aluminum dust. That kind of thing happens when bolts are not torqued down tight enough. All of the engine vibration causes metal on metal rubbing and dust forms. You should be able to wipe some of this up and it will have a metalic smell and will dry your lips and nose. You can get away with torqueing the M10 bolts down to 35 ft/lbs per WFO..... that is what I have done with mine. Those bolts with 14mm heads are the ones I would focus on.

    Do you have stock jetting or have you gone with aftermarket flame arrestors? From idle to 5000rpms, does the engine behave like it is starveing for fuel or does it act like it is being flooded? If you partially choke it, does it run better from idle to 5000 rpm?

    After a hard run, when you coast back to idle, can you open the throttle up and the boat responds the way you expect it to or does it turn into a dog again? Did all of your problems start directly after you changed your PV's? Are your valves cycleing open and closed 1 time after you shut your engine off?

  6. #6
    I wanna go FAAAAASTer!! CDW78's Avatar
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    That's a relief to hear. I will re-torque everything as suggested. All though there is def a leak somewhere. I did install a free flow pipe, but that was my first check, nothing looked to be leaking, and I re tightened the clamps. It just seems to be under the seat.

    There are Riva aftermarket flame arrestors, but I didn't install them so I don't know what jets are installed. I did rebuild the carbs when I got it in May, but didn't pay much attention to jets at the time. It still have the acc. pump as well. Never really acts like it's flooded. It doesn't seem to be bogging ( or needing the choke ) now that I have the carbs half way tuned again.

    Seems to be ok hard runs. Can coast then take off again, no issues. All though, after a turn, just sometimes, maybe once or twice it cuts out - like it quits for maybe a half sec then goes back to normal running.

    The fuel flapper was already gone or it broke and fell in the tank when I removed the unit. Maybe adding the fuel clunks could help ? ( maybe half tank ) On a side note - My 971200 actually does this sometimes to on a very low tank sometimes while hard turning!!!

    I've had the new PV's in since I first got it. So, no. The smoke issue started 2nd to the last time, though nothing else was going on with it, ( the cables were backwards at that time till I corrected ) the the throttle / over heat alarm started this last time out. PV's do seem to cycle as supposed to, but the servo kinda clicks and whines a little. I had already adjusted the cables alittle once after correcting the locations because it jerked and whined. There is some slack in the cables.
    Hope this helps answer your questions.... and as always, THANKS!!!

  7. #7

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    Quote Originally Posted by CDW78 View Post
    .....There are Riva aftermarket flame arrestors, but I didn't install them so I don't know what jets are installed. I did rebuild the carbs when I got it in May, but didn't pay much attention to jets at the time. It still have the acc. pump as well. Never really acts like it's flooded. It doesn't seem to be bogging ( or needing the choke ) now that I have the carbs half way tuned again.
    Exactly, how are your carburetors set up; are they back to OEM with the football style flame arrestor and accellerator pump, or did your boat originally have the aftermarket flame arrestors installed and you did not reinstall them? If you worked on your carbs, what did you do to them? Why did you work on them in the first place?

  8. #8
    I wanna go FAAAAASTer!! CDW78's Avatar
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    I've attached a pic of the kind of flame arrestors that are AND were installed when I bought it. It does still have the acc. pump as well.
    I installed T handles on the lows and rebuilt the carbs as a precaution because I didnt know how long it was out of service beforehand, so I wanted to be safe.....
    I did use Mikuni kits.
    Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #9

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    Lot of possibilities here and many ways to go wrong, so lets just talk about set ups

    You can either have the stock jetting with the accellerator pump working with the stock football style flame arrestor, or you can modify the system and go with aftermarket flame arrestors with different jetting that has been well documented on this forum. There can be no mixing and matching here.

    The question is my mind is why is the accellerator pump still in place? Is it functioning, or has the cam been removed to disable it?

    Remember that the pump was originally placed there because the stock jetting has a high pop off pressure which can create a lean spot in the mid range rpms. The pump puts a blast of fuel to help you get safely past this mid range lean spot. The pump does not effect you when at WOT.

    The modified jetting runs much fatter in fuel with a lower pop off pressure throughout the rpm band, so theoretically there is no lean spot and therefore you should not need an accellerator pump. If the pump is functioning, then you are dumping extra fuel that is not needed, and of course your engine is going to run poorly while going from low to high speed. At top speed, there is no problem because the pump does not function there.

    You really need to know what your jetting specs are and if the pump is working. The simple way to find out without going into the carbs is to contact the previous owner and ask what he has done.

  10. #10
    I wanna go FAAAAASTer!! CDW78's Avatar
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    I bought it from someone who got it from someone. So no go on the actual previous owner. Guess pulling the carbs would be my only option.
    As far as the ACC pump, it does work and is being used.
    I dont know much about adding the flame arrestors so forgive my ignorance, but since it has the Riva ones, re-jetting and removing the pump is an absolute must ?
    And this would cause the issue I started the thread about - it kinda taking off around 5k ? Again, forgive my ignorance, but otherwise it seems to run ok.

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