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Thread: Head studs???

  1. #1
    Matatan tocullo's Avatar
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    Head studs???

    Are they worth having? Or Should i stick with strech bolts?


  2. #2
    shrabber's Avatar
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    There worth having if you tinker. This is how to look at it. If you pull your head throw the Oem bolts in garbage because there stretch to yield bolts.

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    Matatan tocullo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by shrabber View Post
    There worth having if you tinker. This is how to look at it. If you pull your head throw the Oem bolts in garbage because there stretch to yield bolts.
    Is there an specific way to install them?

    Thanks

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    RXP 260 X Short Course Veteran RXP244's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tocullo View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by shrabber View Post
    There worth having if you tinker. This is how to look at it. If you pull your head throw the Oem bolts in garbage because there stretch to yield bolts.
    Is there an specific way to install them?

    Thanks
    I agree with Shrabber....if you are going to have your head off frequently then yes they could be useful. The factory bolts and head gasket are fine right up to 16-18+ boost. Head studs are not going to give you a performance gain. Just my 2 cents.

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    Matatan tocullo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RXP244 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by tocullo View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by shrabber View Post
    There worth having if you tinker. This is how to look at it. If you pull your head throw the Oem bolts in garbage because there stretch to yield bolts.
    Is there an specific way to install them?

    Thanks
    I agree with Shrabber....if you are going to have your head off frequently then yes they could be useful. The factory bolts and head gasket are fine right up to 16-18+ boost. Head studs are not going to give you a performance gain. Just my 2 cents.
    Well if thats the case i guess i need them! Im running close to 20lb boost.. Is there any special way to install them propertly?

  6. #6
    Boost addict hotbird's Avatar
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    I think the arp head bolts are double the cost of oem bolts, so if you pull the head twice they are paid for. also way better bolt.

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    dnielsen's Avatar
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    Yep, worth the money! Carefully chase the threads in the block, coat the block threads on the studs with ARP lube (nothing else!), thread in by hand and only slightly tighten to ensure they are seated, install OEM gasket (new), Install the head, coat upper threads, nuts, and washers with ARP lube, torque in a rotational sequence from center out to 10 ft.lbs., then 20, 40, 60, 80, and finally 95. Check and recheck proper torque. Run engine through a complete heat cycle usually a good tank of fuel without running it hard. Then recheck the torque for accuracy. Do it this way and you'll have no issues with the head gasket........

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  10. #8
    mikelytle1077's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnielsen View Post
    Yep, worth the money! Carefully chase the threads in the block, coat the block threads on the studs with ARP lube (nothing else!), thread in by hand and only slightly tighten to ensure they are seated, install OEM gasket (new), Install the head, coat upper threads, nuts, and washers with ARP lube, torque in a rotational sequence from center out to 10 ft.lbs., then 20, 40, 60, 80, and finally 95. Check and recheck proper torque. Run engine through a complete heat cycle usually a good tank of fuel without running it hard. Then recheck the torque for accuracy. Do it this way and you'll have no issues with the head gasket........
    Arp specs call for 100 ftlb just saying

  11. #9
    shrabber's Avatar
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    Very important recheck torque after a hour or two you will find you will have to re tourqe a few

  12. #10
    SLASHER's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnielsen View Post
    Yep, worth the money! Carefully chase the threads in the block, coat the block threads on the studs with ARP lube (nothing else!), thread in by hand and only slightly tighten to ensure they are seated, install OEM gasket (new), Install the head, coat upper threads, nuts, and washers with ARP lube, torque in a rotational sequence from center out to 10 ft.lbs., then 20, 40, 60, 80, and finally 95. Check and recheck proper torque. Run engine through a complete heat cycle usually a good tank of fuel without running it hard. Then recheck the torque for accuracy. Do it this way and you'll have no issues with the head gasket........
    As above and aim for 100 final torque and check after 3 heat cycles ...

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