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  1. #1
    bust7015's Avatar
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    Question Newbee - 1996 SLTX thru hull question

    Hi everyone. New to the Jetski crowd and I like to work on my own toys. I bought a pair of skis last year. An 03 Sea Doo and a 1996 Polaris SLTX B964590. The Polaris has a one season 1200 engine in it. A clean ski but it nearly sank on the previous owner due to a leaking thru hull seal. Not a man to repair anything, he sold both to me as the dealer wanted too much money to repair it.

    Now when I tried to look up a "thru hull seal", I only found "thru hull shaft housing" PN 5431393 (#12 in image) and a "housing bearing" PN 1341115 (#10 in image).

    So the questions are: Which part should I be replacing? and are there any other seals I will need to replace when I remove the jet drive assembly to make this repair?

    Also, the display doesn't work. Any ideas to look at what the problem is, replacing it or due to the age of the ski, just run it?
    Thanks!
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  2. #2
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    You can replace the seals in the bearing carrier, part number 9 in the diagram for less than 10 bucks. The Seal is a CR 8702. You need 2 of them. There is a 1/4 amp fuse for the display in the electric box. Check that and all of the connections and wiring before just replacing the display.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome.

    See the Jet Pump section of my signature links for info on rebuilding the through-hull bearing assembly.

    You will also find info on removing and inspecting the jet pump itself, and the driveline splines.

    There is a fuse for the display. Fuse is located inside the electrical box. See also the MFD section from my signature links.

  4. #4
    bust7015's Avatar
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    Shouldn't the propeller shaft just come right out? I removed the jet drive but the shaft won't come out of the engine coupler.

  5. #5
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bust7015 View Post
    Shouldn't the propeller shaft just come right out? I removed the jet drive but the shaft won't come out of the engine coupler.
    It can take as much force as wrapping a strap around it and pulling with both feet on the trailer to hold it still.... Make sure there is nothing behind you cause when it lets go, you will fly!!! May need to rotate it and tap on it too to help break it loose.....

  6. #6
    bust7015's Avatar
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    It feels like it should just come out, but it won't. I've pulled on it, pulled and twisted, wiggled and even tried screaming at it to scare it out! I considered clamping one of my slide hammers to it, but I'm afraid of damaging the coupler or worse yet, a main bearing in the engine. Any other suggestions? Should I post this as a new thread?

  7. #7
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bust7015 View Post
    Any other suggestions?
    Pull harder.

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  9. #9
    bust7015's Avatar
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    I got it out As it turns out, on the unseen side of the shaft, there was a huge clump of rust preventing it from passing through the bearing. Splines look good. I'm going to clean it up and give it a coating of POR-15(of course not on the bearing area!) Swear by this stuff. Has protected the chassis on my 94' plow truck for years. Thanks for your help!
    Last edited by bust7015; 07-25-2013 at 12:59 PM.

  10. #10
    bust7015's Avatar
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    Another issue... The driveshaft is pitted. I am concerned that this will most definitely leak. I leave my boats in the water. Where can I source a new one? Also, there is quite a bit of play when I place the bearing housing on the shaft. Is this normal for a pwc? I can see why bushings are used but I would think there would be not much play.I understand that I can purchase new seals, but how about the bushings? Click image for larger version. 

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