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  1. #1

    Can I use a base plate with an aluminum wear ring?

    I was having trouble with my jet pump. it was keeping my engine from turning over. I thought it was an alignment issue so I took the pump out and carefully cleaned all of the joints then put it back in, hit the button and sure enough it was still locked up. I pulled it back out and started to reinspect everything. I happen to notice a bump in the wear ring. I pulled out the baseplate so that I could get a better look at it. It's shot for sure. There is a small crack and either some water froze in the crack or it was caused by corrosion between the ring and baseplate. Luckily, I picked up a parts ski for free. The parts ski has a a long pump while mine is short. The part ski wear ring and stator are shot but the baseplate is good. The question that I have is: can I use the base plate from a long pump on a short pump? The one I took off of my ski looks like it might have a stainless ring in it but I really don't see any joint. The long pump wear ring/base plate looks like its all aluminum. Do I needed to come up with a base plate with a stainless wear ring in it instead?


  2. #2

  3. #3
    Banned User
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    I think you could run with it. Or pick up an extension ring and run a long pump setup. Thats the way I would go.

  4. #4
    What are the advantages of the long pump over the short one?
    I have done a little research on extensions. It seems that there are a multitude of options. I've seen custom PVC, custom solid stainless, solid 6160 and then there is OEM. There seems to be pros and cons to each. What is your opinion of the best route to go?

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by skipstr View Post
    What are the advantages of the long pump over the short one?
    I have done a little research on extensions. It seems that there are a multitude of options. I've seen custom PVC, custom solid stainless, solid 6160 and then there is OEM. There seems to be pros and cons to each. What is your opinion of the best route to go?
    bump

  6. #6
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    The long pump adds a few top end MPH. The cost for the upgrade can be a bit high depending on your parts source. I personally haven't experienced anything other than OEM.

  7. #7
    RLACEMAN's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skipstr View Post
    What are the advantages of the long pump over the short one?
    I have done a little research on extensions. It seems that there are a multitude of options. I've seen custom PVC, custom solid stainless, solid 6160 and then there is OEM. There seems to be pros and cons to each. What is your opinion of the best route to go?
    On my SLT750 I gained 1.6 mph with the long pump, the hookup in rough water is slightly better too, if you go with the long pump setup you will also need a longer steering cable & reverse cable if you have it, & a longer water supply tube. You can 'cheat' with the steering cable & extend it because its threaded, but not the reverse cable. I also think the bigger the engine the more you will gain from a longer pump setup. Which ski do you have?

  8. #8
    I have an Sl780. I actually never even considered the steering cable. I don't have reverse, so that's a non issue. I managed to find a complete long pump on ebay pretty cheap so I grabbed it. I plan on putting it in this week.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by skipstr View Post
    I have an Sl780. I actually never even considered the steering cable. I don't have reverse, so that's a non issue. I managed to find a complete long pump on ebay pretty cheap so I grabbed it.

    I plan on putting it in this week.
    Longer water tube. Note that this tube is positioned (to mate firmly with the fitting on the metal pump nozzle) using one or more o-rings where it abuts the pump base. The forward o-rings act as spacers, not as a water tight seal. The actual water sealing happens using a modest bead of sealant around the plastic water tube where it passes into the pump base. If this is not sealed properly you will have a slow water leak into the hull, especially when the hull is just floating.

    There is supposed to be a square shouldered o-ring trapped down inside the hole in the pump base, but typically this does not seal well. Hence the need for sealant.

    There is also a single o-ring at the rear end of the water tube, where it fits into the tapered casting on the pump exit nozzle.

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