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  1. #1
    OC seadoo's Avatar
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    1997 seadoo xp fouling plugs

    Hello and thank you for your time
    I recently purchased a 97 xp and absolutely had a great time with it. But...after a few hours it started back firing. I limped it back into shore. Checked the plugs and were covered with oil. The guy I bought it from warned me it fouled plugs and said it was due to cheap oil he put in the injection tank. I purchased xps synthetic blend from my local seadoo dealer and want to change it to see if it corrects the issue. I believe there is a specific procedure for changing this oil...any tips, suggestions and help would be much appreciated. And yes the xp still has the grey fuel lines that I will change this winter. I have several other questions but they can wait Thank you for any help for this rookie to this great sport.
    OC


  2. #2
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    more likely is that the RV valve is leaking oil into the crankcases. Hope you got this ski for a good price, as without an hour meter, no way of telling easily how worn the engine might be.

    You want to drain all the oil from the tank..just pull the larger line from the tank ( this feeds the rotary valve and Darin it into a container ( 8 0z plastic cups are good here)

  3. #3
    OC seadoo's Avatar
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    Thank you for your advice. 8 oz cups down in the hull makes sense. Kinda tight in there. Also I thought I had read it had to be bled afterwards on one of the sites...? Is that true or just crank it over and any air will work its way out?

  4. #4
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    oil lines should be bled.

    air bubbles in the line can lead to an engine failure.

    There is a bleed bolt on the oil pump, open it and allow a few oz of oil to drip out..that should clear any bubbles in the lines. The smaller oil lines can get brittle over time, steer clear of them while changing the tank out.

    get a service manual... it is a big help for rookies.

    You'll likely want a quality mechanics mirror and a bright light so you have a better view of what's the oil pump looks like.

  5. #5
    OC seadoo's Avatar
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    Thank you for your advice sir. I thought there would be something more to it. I believe I saw a free online manual available. I work on cars for a living but just worried ill screw something up on a two stroke. I think I saw a post that if u let the engine sit for a few days and pull the spark plugs. Put the wires on the grounding posts and crank it out. If oil comes out then the rotary valve seals are shot...? Any opinion there?

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    either oil bellagi-oing out of the jugs or very very heavy smoke is the sign of a rv valve area leak after the engine sits for a few days. I've seen engines hydrolocked by rv valve leaks.

    last season I knocked around the idea of adding a small amount of tranny seal softener snake oil just to the rotary valve oil, isolate it from the tank and run like that for an hour. could soften the seals enough to slow the leak..but you have to be sure you isolate the rv oil lines ( loopthem together, and pay carful attention to the oil level. you don't want to run that dry.

    Of course if a spring on the seal is outta place..this isn't going to help

  7. #7
    OC seadoo's Avatar
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    The seadoo place in Roseville told me to just add the xps blend to the tank and it would eventually pump through....I don't know about that...don't think it works like that...I went all day and don't think I made much of a dent on the oil tank(just trying to see how much it used) let alone I hardly used much fuel. It seems to be very good on gas. Some of my projects on fixing up the xp are making the fuel gauge and speedometer work(I've seen a thread on maybe it's just the magnet in the fuel float) but haven't had time to tackle that one. But haven't seen a thread for the speedo. Also replacing the foot grips (hydroturf?)and possibly replacing the sponsons(stability?) I've tackled the grips, vts and start button. (Easy stuff but i should have made a utube video because its just not out there for watercraft) I'm not into just beating the thing up and just taking it for what it is. If anyone else runs into wanting to replace the old vts or start button search the seadoo part number if you are trying to get from your local dealer. Otherwise the dealer will try to sell you the whole assembly and say there's no listing for them individually(THERE IS AND ON THE SHELF) The two buttons only cost about 10$ and were in stock when I gave the part number.

  8. #8
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    a dealer that tells you that you cannot buy the plastic covers:

    1-doesn't deserve your business
    2-should be called out for not being a good place to drop any kind of money.

    for pete's sake, you have guys buying these covers from sbt then marking them up 300% on ebay with $5 shipping. I keep a good supply of them on hand and install them gratis ( typically as they are attached to big ticket repair jobs..so I can throw a bone in the pile

    while on the topic of start button covers....if you are looking at a ski that needs one..there is a good chance it has a problem requiring overuse of the starter button

    you are going to find quite a few parts on the 97 xp no longer available new..so tread carefully.

    not to be repetitious..you want to bleed the oil pump.

    the other thing you'll want to do is to remove the electrical connectors on the MPEM, inspect them, inspect the mpem connections for corrosion and then put a little dielectric grease on them and reconnect. Might be why your fuel gauge isn't working

    the 97 xp in my view isn't a real stable ride..the center of gravity seems pretty high ( for me) that being said..don't throw any money into anything that isn't going to increase reliability ( fixing the gas guage for example is kinda of important to avoid the inconvience of running our of gas if you get lost in the day...repriming a fuel system that has run dry puts a pretty big hit on the battery/starter.

    Check back with me in the winter....I have a 97 xp I'm about to file a lein on. Motors blown, but everything else is there.

  9. #9
    OC seadoo's Avatar
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    I just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate all your advice and info sir. I'm new to watercraft and was just looking for an inexpensive seadoo to have fun in the water with the family. I talked my wife into it and purchased the 97 xp with a real nice trailer for 1400$ knowing that if we used it and have a blast I'll buy a new seadoo next season. The xp runs great and have had a great time so far but I'm the type that wants everything to work properly for the next person. I knew what was wrong with it and this winter I'll dial it in. As for stability it's very fast and fun but a pain to get on unless able to stand to mount. I'm a big dude and worry for the time I dismount in the middle of the lake lol.

    As for Roseville CA seadoo (twin city motorsports) that area is pretty wealthy and I didn't like how all of a sudden it was in stock when I did my homework and gave the part number. Also are a couple miles from lake Folsom so maybe thought they'd get me for a few more $. The guy was cool though but kinda bs for how many years that same start button was used.

    Elk Grove CA seadoo guys were great though. Little bit of a drive but felt more comfortable in their show room and with their parts department. And the service department could look at my seadoo with a day or two notice.

  10. #10
    OC seadoo's Avatar
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    Also the start and vts buttons were pretty gummy/sticky/falling apart and I'm sure OE. And grips had electrical tape on them. It was first on my list to fix(easy to knock off the list). I had to replace that crap. Looks and feels great now. I used meguiars fine cut cleaner and polished and waxed the seadoo. Looks great now! New feet grips probably will happen this winter as well but just don't like the big hydro turf logo.

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