03-07-2007, 10:20 PM #1
Buying 2004 GPR: any tips / info?
NOT ME, but a friend. good friend of mine looking to get into skis, and given his budget and what kind of riding he wants to do, the GPR is what best suits him currently. Not bad for a biased RXP owner huh, actually going along with helping my friend buy a GPR
anyway... we been looking awhile, each weekend looking at local skis, and they are all disasters... but we found a good one. CLean as can be, 2004 GP1300R... like 60 something hours on it, comes with the trailer, etc etc.
it has a whole bunch of mods, which i dont have the list yet, but mostly all bolt-on hull mods, D-plate, and i want to find out what else... if it's any mods that are motor related that would effect reliability or hurt the motor over time.
So anyway.. i'm going on saturday morning with him to go check out the ski, and potentially hand over cash and take it home with us.
can you guys help me out as to what i should look very closely at on an 04 GPR? what components typically are weak and the best way to tell that we're not buying a mechanical toilet?
friend has no future intention of further modifying it at all... we were just looking for stock ones, but this one is very clean and very nicely priced and local. also has all the stock parts saved that we'll get.
so... would u guys mind giving me that much needed GPR education that my sorry 4-tec assss deserves?
03-07-2007, 10:32 PM #2
crawl underneath. Look for hull damage. I know you said it was clean, but look around.
Hard to tell about ANY engine unless you pull the head and intrusive stuff like that.
Compression check would be a MUST DO.
-The other two Spark plugs in.
-All Ignition Wires off.
Yami has different cc volume heads on some 1300's so someone might be able to chime in on what the cranking compression is.
Do the power valves cycle when the engine is first cranked?
Any evidence of salt water damage inside the hull?
Does the trim move smoothly? Do the detents actually work?
See if you can see any corrosion around the throttle bodies down at the crank case.
Does it idle normally, or does it rise and fall?
Smoke really bad, or fairly clean? Look for signs of smut in the pump tunnel.
If the pump shoe sits lower than the hull, there will need to be some work done there.
03-07-2007, 10:46 PM #3
what are powervalves, what do they do, and what do they sound like so i know if they are cycling...
everything else i'll add to my checklist and it all makes sense to me, inspecting hull, pump housing, prop, etc...
and then if someone knows what compression should be on a stock 04 motor? .... check each cylinder one at a time and leave the other two plugs in while doing so and crank WOT...k
and what's an acceptable compression variation between cylinders.
03-07-2007, 11:11 PM #4
Make Sure you bring a strong battery with you test(16CL-B or Deka ETX16L).
03-08-2007, 12:07 AM #5
A common problem is the power valves. They have been improved thru out the years but still can pose a problem even in an 04.
This problem can destroy a motor. When a valve first drops the only symptom can be a loss of power and rpm.
Do a compression check with the power valves open and then closed.
This will tell you if a valve has dropped. Should be about a 5+lb difference from closed to open.
If there is no difference on one cyl with the valves open and closed it means a valve has gone south. There could be engine damage even with good compression.
1. Unplug the servo motor electrical connector located under the glove box in the front of the engine bay, the thing with all the cables.
2. Follow the servo motor cables down to the PTO cyl where you will find the pulley wheel. It should be all the way to one end of its travel with the boat off. So take a compression test with the servo electrical connector unplugged.
3. Next, turn the exhaust power valve servo pulley wheel all the way opposite from where it was.. Now do another compression test.
4. If there is no difference from closed power valves to open power valves you got a problem that needs further investigation and probably a piston/cyl/valve at the minimum.
5 Use a piston wash light(like in the pic below) in the spark plug hole to check for damage from a dropped power valve. While you’re in there check for erosion on the piston crown from detonation.
03-08-2007, 12:13 AM #6
For some reason the thumbnail did not attach to above post
This piston wash light works good for me
03-08-2007, 12:24 AM #7
thanks for the compression info Erin
allcool... thanks for the info on checking for power valve failure... would i easily be able to find these cables and unplug the servo motor? and how easily does this pully wheel move by hand?
i know it's a long shot... anyone have pictures?!? lol... i'm gonna search the net for some parts diagrams and whatnot, see what i can find... never touched a GPR before, but by the looks of things this friend is buying the GPR, and another friend is looking for a used XLT1200, and i'm looking to get a GPR also..... so i'll be having some experience with them in the future, gotta get started somewhere.
03-08-2007, 12:32 AM #8
03-08-2007, 06:06 AM #9
EFI boats do not idle very well (or run very well) out of the water. It may sound like crap until it is in the water.
03-08-2007, 11:12 AM #10
ok... got an update fromt he seller... it has a complete Riva Stage 2 kit on it.... installed by a dealer.
does this change things?
i'll tell you guys the deal... 2004 GPR with Riva Stage II it, Trailer, and Cover.... $4500 bucks
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