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  1. #1
    Highlifeking's Avatar
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    GP1200r Front Carburator access help

    I need some help figureing the best way to adjust the front carburator low speed t-handle. I just switched back to the stock stinger from a Turbo Tube- i am able to adjust all my t-handles except the low-speed adjuster on the very front carburator. If my arm was 6" longer i could reach- what solution have you guys used to access this t-handle? Im thinking that if i extend one side of the t-handle it will stick out far enough where i can stick a screw driver down detween the carbs and do it from the top. Any ideas?


  2. #2

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    I am in the same boat as you and tried what you suggested. It works up to a point, but you can adjust only about 1/2 turn.

    A novel way that I solved the problem is that (I know that this is going to sound odd) I found a plastic gear from one of my old fishing reels, took the Low speed "T" handle and heated it up on the stove, then placed the plastic gear onto the top of the "T" handle. The gear melted itself onto the handle, and the roll pin on the handle melted into the gear. To make it stronger, I added superglue on to it.

    This gear is (as I recall) is about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 inches. in diameter. True to what you are suggesting, I can look in between the #1 and #2 carbs and see the teeth of the gear. I screwed the gear all the way in and color coded it red so that I would know that when I looked in between the two carbs and saw red, that it was completely closed. A blue mark was the opposite (180 degree out) and the 1/2 way point. The 1/4 and 3/4 marks were black.

    I then took a small round file, and filed a nice indention into the gear at the 1200, 0300, 0600 , and 0900 position. I can now look down in between the two carbs and use a screw driver to move the "T" handle very predictably by moving the teeth with the screw driver.

    Works extreemly well for me.

    Another way you could possibly solve the problem (if your a purist or a machineist) is drill another hole the size that was cut for the "T" handle and put another roll pin into it. Make it 90 degrees out from the original "T". You can actually see the end of the handle between the carbs, so if you saw 4 ends instead of 2 ends, that should be enough adjustment for you.

    I have not tried this one, but I'll bet that a machineist could do it.

  3. #3
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    Another way to get to it is pull the bolts out of the battery box / electrical box until you get it adjusted and pull it and lay it out of the way wile you adjust the front screw. It makes it easy to reach all the adjusters and you just put it back to test ride it and so on.

  4. #4
    Highlifeking's Avatar
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    Thats a real good idea salty- im big into rc cars too so i know i have the perfect gear for this set up. I was also thinking if i could afix the same mechanism as the idle adjuster to it- i could mount it somewhere and easily adjust it anytime. Another idea i had was to make a whole rack system on the bottom of the carb, linking all the low speeds together, so i could move them all at ounce- similar to the throttle linkage. But i think your gear idea is going to be the ticket 4 me- I really like the turbo tube for adjustments- but i just couldnt get the rpms i need and it was giving me such a problem tuneing- i hope with the stock stinger in and the jetworks mod i can regain my rpms and get it running correctly too. I just rebuilt the carbs- 110-125- 1.5 and 95g spring at 45psi pop off- exactly what is recommended for my setup and i could never get it to run right with the turbo tube. Yesterday i had 3 turns out on the highs and im sure it needed more, the lows were at 1 5/8 and it wasnt great on the bottom. Hopefully the stock stinger will cure the alement

  5. #5
    Highlifeking's Avatar
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    Are you saying that i can remove the eletrical box only or the whole battery/slectrical assembly? i see where your going- if i can get more of my arm in there, then i could reach it.

  6. #6
    mudslanger's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Highlifeking View Post
    Are you saying that i can remove the eletrical box only or the whole battery/slectrical assembly? i see where your going- if i can get more of my arm in there, then i could reach it.
    Yes the big white box the battery is strapped down in. a lot of times when i am tuning a ski i will take all the nuts off (4 total) and do some high speed runs and pull the plugs and feel the temp of the cylinders. then if i need to make a adjustment on one of the cylinders i lift the battery box up and sit it on the motor and then i can reach the highs and lows from the rear. it saves a lot of time and you know exactly how much you turn the T handle.

    Salty has a good idea but i am just use to doing it this way.

  7. #7

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    With the stock pipe, expect a good bottom end but a better top end. I do not know of any one with your set up that needed 3 turns out on the top end and the bottom should only need about 1 turn out.

    Using a good tach, keep closing them off 1/4 turn per run. Most people have hit the sweet spot between 1 & 1/4 to 3/4 turn out on the top end. When you get close, a 1/8 inch turn will show you an rpm increase.

  8. #8
    Highlifeking's Avatar
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    Last year i was running the same setup with the turbo tube- this year all i did was switch reeds, i went from carbon tech LT to the HT- i figured this would get some rpms back. I rebuilt the carbs and set the lows to 1 and the highs to 1.25, upon the first run i had to open the lows to 1.5 to get any decent response, but it still bogged. I kept opening the highs to get my rpms up, the more i opened it up the higher my rpms climbed- i went to 3 turns but didnt go any further- rpms got to 6950 Im not sure how just the reed change made a difference like that- inless theres a fuel problem that developed over winter or somthn. So i figured id try the stock pipe and see if that got the carbs tuning where everyone else has them.

  9. #9
    I can turn mine from up-top using an 18" flatblade craftsman screwdriver; in fact I can reach all 6 t-handels with it. its not the most acurate precision tool but it gets the job done. I can turn the lows +/- a quarter turn in about 10 seconds, and whatever I want on the highs. Any more on the lows and the screwdriver can do it with a 90 degree 'finger' affixed to the flatblade. It doesnt take much, just a nub of something taped to the flat-blade. I was thinking of drilling a small hole to make something more permanent - like attach a small cotter-pin. I'm sure any adjustment would be a breeze like this. I keep this screw driver zip-tied inside the craft; for when I check the pulgs its right there allowing any changes necessary.

    Another way is with two pieces of 1/4 drive extension. Detach the water-line from the hull up by the stinger first - it should be affixed via a releasable zip tie. Now you can reach your arm down to carb #3 no problem. Get one length of 1/4 drive extension down there, then attach a second length for full reach. Some wrist twisting and you should be able to just-barely get the frankintool to reach the first carb's t-handel. I did this before I got my screw driver.

  10. #10
    Screw driver from Sears is a Craftman model 47131.

    Heres some pics of the attachment I use and the carb's low handel location. The metal piece I used was a bent piece of needle/seat lever from my spare parts bin - unused from a carb rebuild kit; but you can probably cut and bend anything to about this shape. it makes a nice hook/handle down deep. Tape this very very well to the 47131 screw driver.

    Now you can reach Carb 1 and Carb 2. Carb 3 is easy with your hand's fingers when you move the water line up from the stinger.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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